I am about to build my first foam core carbon skinned grips and wanted to follow up on some feedback from those who have taken the plunge already.

Everyone recommends the West Systems 207 epoxy, but doing a search there was talk of some alternatives that were less pricey. [resinresearch.net] [www.acp-composites.com] [www.epoxyproducts.com] [www.fgci.com]
Has anyone actually tried any of these alternatives yet?

At the show I saw that Steve Gardner had stolen my idea of a split grip with 2 cores and 1 sleeve, I guess great minds think alike. The handle on your rod at the show had a nice matte finish on it, when I looked at Helmsman Spar Urethane it was available in gloss and matte, is that what you used for the top coat?

Any other tips and tricks from the early adopters?

Thanks Mike

There are probably a lot of epoxies that are suitable for use with these. You only use it to wet out the skins - topcoating is generally done with something else so West Systems #207 could very well be overkill. However, it is proven for use in marine environments so you know you're safe right off the bat. But again, I'm sure there are others that will also work as well.

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Mike, I personally have only used the West System with great results. If you buy it from soller composites it is much cheaper then if you buy it at the West store. I have made a few grips now and I have used both the spray spar varnish and Diamondite. I like the Diamondite. You can get a much thicker coating and much faster then the spar. Hope this helps. Any more questions please email me directly. Scott

Mike;
If your mind is thinking like mine? You should really be scared!
Apart from that you must have been thinking pretty loud

Actually I used no top coat on that handle. I used a bit more epoxy than was necessary. Then used and abrasive wheel to sand the graphite to obtain the finish I wanted.

I also followed Tom’s advice on using heat shrink tubing, so that the graphite was actually compressed creating a more solid surface and making sure the epoxy was well saturated into the cloth eliminating any voids, and pushing the excess epoxy out.

I’m not sure you would be able to sand it like I did if you just used your hands to smooth it out.

I too use the W.S. #207 it’s worked so well I’m looking for another even if it costs less

I have the resin research it worked well, it is made for surf boards so the UV shoudl be very good it dried crystal clear. and is very hard and strong. My only gripe about it was the oder. Since selling my house I am in a small place for now and dont have extra rooms or a garage or basement to escape it. Then again everything has a bad oder when you have to breath it for to long.

So I wont be making anymore carbon grips for a while. If anyone wants this stuff message me I will sell it, I dont want to hold on to it for a few years and have it go bad on me.

My only tip is to not bother with trying to get a perfect end when trying to butt something up against the grip (butt cap, reel seat or whatever) just leave it as sloppy as you please and cut it with a hacksaw or something and sand the edge it will be just as smooth and clean as metal cut by machine tool.

maybe two tips..LOL you can also use any brand rod finish that dries with a hard tough surface. forget about threadmaster light for this and aftco. If its just to play around with making a carbon grip this is the cheapest way. If not, forget it, thread finish is most likily the most expensive epoxy in the world. surprise surprise.

Henry,

I'm curious about the stuff you used that had such an odor or fumes. Was it perhaps a polyester resin? I know that stuff is tough on the respitory system.

It does have a nice, high gloss and doesn't yellow, however.

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Hi Tom,

No its an epoxy resin. I remember reading that epoxy type was stronger and just plain better so I looked for that.

I may be overly sensitive to chemical oders i find Thread Master to give off a good amount of oder, I need at least a little ventilation when using it. Not that I get a sore throat or lung irritation from it but prolonged exposure to I can smell is most likly not a good idea. I have never seen anyone else mention it though.

Mike,

I've been using the epoxy from ACP EZ-LAM composites and have been extremely satisfied at about half the price of the west systems stuff. You can buy smaller quantities also which works best for me.

DW

I know that it bothers some more than others and the last thing you want to do is become sensitized to it. I've been lucky in this regard as it doesn't bother me but that could certainly change in the future.

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Steve Gardner Wrote:
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> Actually I used no top coat on that handle. I used
> a bit more epoxy than was necessary. Then used and
> abrasive wheel to sand the graphite to obtain the
> finish I wanted.
>
> I also followed Tom’s advice on using heat shrink
> tubing, so that the graphite was actually
> compressed creating a more solid surface and
> making sure the epoxy was well saturated into the
> cloth eliminating any voids, and pushing the
> excess epoxy out.

When you say you used an abrasive wheel to sand the graphite are you talking about a Scotchbrite wheel in a bench grinder or something else?

I plan to use the heat shrink tubing, hopefully it will shrink enough in the area between the grips.

Mike;
What I use are abrasive buffing wheels that are sold by Dremel made for using in their tools.
They come in three grits from course to fine.
I like these for finish work because they are small and easy to work around contours, avoiding parts I don't want to buff.





mike harris Wrote:
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> I plan to use the heat shrink tubing, hopefully it
> will shrink enough in the area between the grips.

Mike thats going to depend on the size of your blank.
On the rod at the show it did not and took some creative thinking and work. Have fun!