What would cause diamondite to fisheye and pit. I have recently been experimenting with it and like how fast it sets up and cures here in Florida, but I seem to get hundreds of fisheyes and a lot of pitting when applying it.

I seriously doubt a contamination problem as it has happened on multiple rods and I apply Classic Coat in the same place with no adverse effects.

Thank you in advance.

What is your procedure for applying it?? I have never encountered either and I use it a lot?

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mix it in a new plastic cup or small ceramic type cup and it stays in there when I apply. I did read the how to on applying it that Jim Gamble did (I think), and followed it fairly closely.

I apply with a brush, but rarely "brush" finish, and I apply at a fairly slow speed. (30rpm or so, dry at 6) I didnt like applying at 200rpm when I tried it.

If I can get it to work for me, I think I'd love the finish.

I believe its more pitting than fisheyes. So somewhere I must be applying it different than it was intended. I am nearly positive its operator error, as many others have no problems.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2008 03:49PM by Sean Cheaney.

Not sure! I do pretty much like Jim I mix for about 30 seconds and let set (in the cup) for 3 or minutes and then apply (fairly thin). I do make sure that the rod is as level as I can get it. I do ONE quick pass with a heat gun to help flow/level.. Doubt that it makes any difference, but I usually apply while turning by hand and then turn at 3 rpm. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I haven't had any problem and love the stuff

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I think it may have been time. I just went outside and looked and now its as smooth as glass. I give up on trying to figure out why it pits when I apply it, but it fixed itself. :)

This has happened 2wice now, and 3 or 4 other times it stayed with the pitting. I must be doing something strange, just need to figure out what it is. One time I am fairly sure it did NOT like going over classic coat however.

Two things come to mind. 1. If the thread you are using has a silicone on it as does Madeira you need to apply a Color Preserver before you apply the finish. 2. If the cups you are mixing in are not the type that have the graduated lines on them you may have a mold release on the inside surface of the cup.

from reading this post about Diamondite pitting,SEAN had said that he was putting Diamondite over another finish namely Classic Coat.
I thought you could not apply Diamondite over any other finish, is that so?
Thanks Jimmy Mac

Jimmy: In this case it was not over another finish. In the past I did attempt to put it over classic coat, and found out very very quickly that was a bad idea.

The thread is gudebrod black nylon and gudebrod ht metallic. So its not the thread. Nor is it the cups as they are the graduated cups. It came out fine, I am just confused as to why it looks the way it does when I apply and cannot seem to get consistent results.

Sean, I have tried it on 2 rods and love the pot life and all of that. I have measured with syringes and went by Jims instructions but I also get what your talking about. I also have encountered on the last rod that it ended up tacky after it cured. I think in my case it might be temp as i am from WI and spring doesn't want to come this year. I have used just about all other finishes with no problems so I feel your pain on this one. I do know that Diamondite is a 2to1 mix and is different than other finishes. Like you said I like the product if I could get ot figured out.

Aaron Anderson
Beaver Rods

I hear your pain also. I am from PA and I have a devil of a time to get this stuff to cure completely even in a drying box with heat and a mini fan for air circulation. I do alot of repair work and the Diamondite takes longer to cure then the flex coat does...Puzzled. I also have had issues of it pulling back off of decals. I may wait for warmer weather and try it again and if that dont work then Dumpster fodder it shall be.

Jason Kesckes. Aint no fish'n like bass fish'n

I've been using Diamondite and am a newby. I work too slow and by the time I get to the last threads the Diamondite is starting to thicken and then I tend to rush it and create bubbles. The lower viscosity of the setting Diamondite makes it harder for the bubbles to come to the surface and pop. Heating the Diamondite helps reduce the viscosity for a short time but then it'll set faster. Late bubbles pop slowly and leave small pits behind which should even out after a few minutes of turning. I'm slowly breaking the nasty habit of trying to "fix" the pits. I do better when I work half the rod at a time and leave the Diamondite to do its thing on its own.

I have been playing with this stuff too lately. Not on a rod but on different experiments of thread . I`ve had a hard time with getting the stuff to screw up!!! Perfect every time even over Maderia!!! It is however important to add the heat of a light bulb to cure it. I have been using my florescent magnifier swing arm lamp thingy and I know it is not as hot as an incandescent bulb..I dont however wast a lot of time playing with the finish. Glob it on with a spatula, smear it around to wet the job,let it sag to remove excess and under the light,grab a beer and walk away. Just about what I have learned to do with all epoxies . Come back later and admire the smooth finish. I do not flame this finish as heat accelerates the setup time.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

It sounds like you have a air born contaminate such as an aerosol spray deodorize or some kind of silicon wax. It maybe something like a oil from your skin.. I would let it set up for a couple of days, lightly scuff the finish with a gray scuff pad, wipe clean with denatured alcohol. Then apply 2 thine coats of C/P then refinish. the C/P well put a safety layer that well encapsulate what ever is contaminating your finish.
Good Wraps Bob

I have found that the scalpul(spelling?) blades come packaged in a plastic sleeve, they are oiled to keep from rusting. If you don't wipe them off with alchohol or solvent, they will transfer oil to your wraps when cutting tags. Just another possibility.

I had a similar problem on double wraps and when using size e thread. It seemed that air bubbles were working their way out about 30 minutes after applying. I just go back over with a heat gun, and they have all been fine since. I live in NH, and I also had a tacky finish on one this winter, I found that the resin had congealed a bit on the bottom of the bottle, so I also heat the finish a bit and invert the bottles to make sure they haven't congealed, and this problem has'nt come back to haunt me again.

Not sure if the responders to this post are familiar with Diamondite! It's NOT an epoxy finish and is used a little differently. No sanding between coats in necessary, It doesn't seem to be effected by contaminates like the epoxy finishes and should NOT be poured out of the mixing cup as that will accelerate the cure. It's basically a type of adhesive and cures by evaporation, not internal heat. Using a torch, hair dryer, pouring on to foil all speed up the cure process and should be avoided. This thread is the first that I've seen where people were having these problems. You might want to e-mail Tim Campbell (origibator of it) or Jim Gamble (long time user).

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

No need to e-mail me, I am completely dumbfounded.

Diamondite IMO is the most foolproof finish on the market. That being said, I haven't had many, if any, issues with all the others. Two things I do practice: 1) EXTREMELY controlled environment - cleanliness is VERY important and so is temperature regulation within reason and; 2) EXACT procedure methodology - measuring, mixing, applying, drying, etc.

Something isn't right from a "fundamentals" standpoint ... but without being there I have NO idea.

Sorry for the late response to this question. I am at a trade show in my RV without internet until today. I do have an idea what the issue is. If you are using a drying box and allow the temperature to get over 120 F, you will have a cratering effect. The curing is directly related to the surface evaporation of the product. If you do not use CP, the thread bubbles will not have time to fully escape before the product is cured. Reduce the temperate of the drying box and you will have less chance of it cratering.

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing
(626) 963-1142