I applied a decal connection water slide decal to my first rod without micro sol/micro set and it turned out fine. When I ordered decals for my second rod I also ordered the solutions, used them and had 2 problems. After waiting a day for my Cabela's 2 part professional rod finish to dry (the same finish I used on my first rod) I followed the decal application instructions using the solutions. After applying the setting soln the decal developed a haze to it and there was a wrinkle in it. I waited and after drying it still didn't look right--used the setting soln to remove the decal, cleaned the area with alcohol and the top layer of my finish started peeling off--there were bubbles formed in it, I picked at them and then I decided to peel it off the best I could and in one area it peeled down to thread--other areas just the top layer. Now it is irregular, I had extra decals--reapplied with water only and I still see a few wrinkles but no haze I was just thinking I would put finish over the area and see if it all levels out. I am afraid I will get white lines at the edges of the peeled finish when it is applied over top. Will the finish level out over these small wrinkles in the decal or will they look ok. Should I, could I strip the area completely to the blank?

My first one was so easy and perfect, this one is a mess. I did not used distilled water as I saw in the forum and maybe this is a problem (I didn't last time though?) Could the soln not be compatible with my finish?

Thanks for your advice--it is a long story Brenda

It sounds like the finish wasn't completely set. I know that you waited all that time, but possibly it wasn't mixed right or maybe wasn't going to harden completely. Was it tacky at all when applying the Microset before putting the waterslide on?

I've had Microset lift finish that wasn't fully cured a few times, now.

Putter
Williston, ND

I had a problem like that once. Was in a hurry and my TM light only had 12 hours of cure. The Micro Set ate through the finish. No more hurry for me. I sometimes get a haze around the decal once dry, but another application of Micro Sol takes it away. Maybe I have a water problem?

We generally use a very light coat of LS Lite under the deals (and under our hand-written logo and the customer's name). We let it dry a full 24hrs before doing anything else. Then we can write on it, and put decails on it, etc.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Have you read the article on applying water slide decals in RodMaker? The Decal Connection site also has it for viewing online. It might answer some of your questions about the use of those solutions.

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I have read the articles and been on the decal connection site. I have a feeling it could be as Putter stated an epoxy issue as it just didn't seem to feel super hard but it was over 24 hours so I applied it anyway. But now what do I do with the mess? I peeled off all of the soft stuff but there were some cured areas where the finish is still stuck. There are some demarcation lines where I peeled it but they are not too noticable. Finish over it? Strip it all off? I'd have to learn how to do that. What if there are some wrinkles in my decal? Will the finish mask this or make it look worse? Can I reuse the micro set after the first application dries to see if I can get it out?

thanks--I appreciate this forum so much and your prompt responses.

I would clean the finish, then sand it just enough to remove any imperfections and then reapply the decal. Wait another day before sanding just to be sure the epoxy is cured to the point where you can cleanly sand it. If it's too soft, it will just roll up and clog the sandpaper.

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The haze or white stuff you are seeing is probably the adhesive from the sticking side of the waterslide that has been smeared by movement of the decal for placement adjustment. One other real problem with "white" stuff can be caused by using the same brush for Set and Sol application that was used for Flex Coat CP application. Are you using a devoted brush and working out of a clean supply of water each time? The application of susequent one swipe applications of the Sol will clear them up. If the finish has gone to its first cure state the decal solutions will have no effect. If you sand for the application of another waterslide do not forget to apply anothe thin coat of finish to provide a scratch freem surface.

Brenda,
Before you sand, I would like to add to what Tom K. wrote. Put some masking tape at each end of your finish to protect your rod from any stray sanding scuffs that might occur. Also I would suggest 400 grit sandpaper. Hope this helps. Been in the same boat before.
Terry

"I had a problem like that once. Was in a hurry and my TM light only had 12 hours of cure. The Micro Set ate through the finish. "

I did the same exact thing once- with the same exact result.

I never had that problem with the TM regular though. I'd apply my decals at 10 or 12 hours and my 2nd coat at 10-12 hours after that. I've had to adjust my routine to use the TM light as the first coat. Now I do: 1st coat.....wait 24+ hours, apply decals.....wait 12+ hours, apply 2nd coat.

I've been using a product similar to MicroSol for thirty years now, first for decaling model railroad equipment where the decal needed to shrink to fit snugly into the grooved details of the model. However, for apply to a fishing rod, no shrinkage of the decal is necessary, the solution allows you to move the decal easily until you are satisfied with the spacing and should not leave any residue like plain water would (I use distilled water). So, I diluted the solution by half with distilled water and have had no problems. I have some MicroSol and plan to use it when the other stuff runs out and will dilutethe MicroSol too.

Sounds like I have a lot of work on my hands....thanks for all the tips.

Brenda, I've had the exact same problem a couple of times and if your finish hasn't cured enough the solution will lift the finish. Did you use Acetone to thin your epoxy? If you do then let the rod sit for 4 days before applying the decal. That will give the finish enough time to harden so that the microsol/microset won't bubble up your finish. If you didn't use Acetone then give your rod a couple of days (48 hours) before applying the decal. Cool weather will also have the same effect. I find that I need to strip back the finish to the blank otherwise that hazy finish can act like a cancer if you don't get rid of all of it.

thanks again Steve--I did use acetone to thin my epoxy....too bad we have to learn these things the hard way!! Glad there are others to give help and advice or I would still be scratching my head!!