Working on a rod with the Fuji reel seat and have a couple of questions. I have a two projects using the DNP seats and need to ask if anyone has any input on mounting this seat up or downlocking? I never thought much about it but when I asked ny wife how she wanted it she liked the uplock better? Also do most use three arbors or just one at each end? Nice seats although I think there is still some improvement to be had on a spinning reel seat.

I prefer it uplocking with no forgrip. just an epoxy ramp or a small "button" in front so I can place finger or thumb on the blank. I use a full length Flexcoat arbor

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I like downlocking with no threads showing. My wife actually prefers uplocking because when I ask her to hold a rod she holds it in a non-fishing position. I tried to explain it to her but sometimes it's best just to say nothing. To each his (her) own. I like to choke up on the rod and put a thumb on the blank.

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2008 02:30PM by Chuck Mills.

AS Chuck stated, I like mine downlocking (sorry Mike B) with no threads. I added the foregrip right on the locking nut [www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2008 02:51PM by Billy Vivona.

I like it Billy! I'll try one of those. FYI - I have started using size 20 NPS and they are more comfortable for me. An added plus is that if you really crank down on the nut it will actually butt up to the seat and you get rid of that unsightly gap. Wish i had a picture.

Now I'm confused! I have always rederred to a seat with the threads/nut on the butt end and tightening up towards the tip as uplocking and ones with the threads/nut on the tip side and screwing down towards the butt as downlocking. Am I backwards on this this???

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

No, Mike. You're not teh one that is confused.

Geez Mike - pictures are worth a thousands words. Dont' read wha tI write, just look at the pictures show & tell style. I made a mistake, sorry about that.

I didn't like the size 20 in my hand, but I also hate that stupid gap on the size 18. I happen to have a size 20 KDPS locking foregrip too, maybe I will give is a second chance.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2008 02:53PM by Billy Vivona.

LOL

Here is what I was talking about.....the stupid gap. [www.rodbuilding.org]

I like the look of that a lot more.

Bill Tune Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>Also do most use three arbors or just one
> at each end? Nice seats although I think there is
> still some improvement to be had on a spinning
> reel seat.

Bill, I use the Flex Coat full length arbors. They fit the size 18 perfectly and ream easily. I cut the seat threads down to fit the reel and then glue the arbor flush to the front (tip end) so I can do an epoxy ramp later.

Hey Guys,
Great discussion with all of those pictures! I can even understand the New York accent. I did have some trouble wth the size 16 Fuji seat that you are referring to as the Okuma Alumina reel that I used had too small of a foot to fit snugly. Some tape fixed that but I was surprised that the tape was required. Wouldn't really want to sell a rod to someone and then tell them they had to use some tape to make things fit.
Chuck, that is a great way to mount that seat! I cut mine off by about a half inch and mounted it uplocking, still leaving that ugly gap and threads. By mounting it downlocking so you could take the nut and hood off completely over the reduced fore grip, you totally sanitized the looks of that seat and eliminated having the threads touching your hand.
Oh God, I feel another project coming on!
Thanks, great stuff!
Lynn

Thanks guys great ideas! And More questions!

Chuck how did you get rid of the gap, secret?

I plan on using solid graphite foam for each end as both the arbor and a nub for resting a finger or just cut off to place a finger on the blank (however she wants it). I will also use the foam for the butt grip with a rubberized cork end. Bob McCamey from Custom Tackle had one using the graphite foam at the show and after two years of use it still looks great. He just used the foam at either end but I got the Flex Coat arbors if I decide to use some of that too.

I do not thing I need to put an arbor full length, but...?

Chuck said he used a larger seat.

Yes, the first time I used a size 20 I put the reel in and cranked down on the nut to mark the threads for cutting like I always do. It was then that I noticed that the area for the reel foot must be slightly larger, or maybe the nut/hood is. Anyway, the hood was within 3/32" of the lip so I just twisted the nut harder and the hood deformed slightly and that did it. I don't have any long hours on the water with the size 20 yet though. If I find it too big (I doubt it) I will try the same with a size 18 by doing a little grinding on the reel itself to make it work.

Ok I see. I have two of the DNP's for different projects and both are 18 so I will just live with the gap on these. I do not think a 20 would be too big at all. I have been making my TN grips with 11/4 inch cork and taking them down to about 11/8 since we both prefer a larger diameter grips. Only thing I do not like about the DNP seats is the weight (little over an ounce) so my next spinning reels will be with the new graphite covered foam "TN" style. But I have yet to do the first one of these so it will take a while to get all the stuff and start pouring them up. The seminar at the show was EXCELLENT on these and really got me pumped up. I think I can do them with a bit of practice!

BIll - I shorten my NPS seats by cutting most of the non-threaded portion off. YOu can remove quite a bit without hurting the reel holding capabilities of the seat. If you are slick, you would measure exactly how far the reel foot goes under teh hood, and cut teh seat right up to that point. If there is an empty space it would be hidden by the foregrip anyway. The only problem with this is the seat is not round, its rectangular-oval once you cut off the very end. Hand sand or sand on a belt sander and it's no problem. Then go back and cut off the excess threaded portion.

I'm sure that would knock off about 1/4oz or so. lol. It actually makes the seat more comfy, imo - sinc eyou remove that thin portion of the seat, adn the foregrip butts up against it nice and thick.

For those who SW fish, and HATE tigger seats like I do - the NPS is a great alternative to the DPS seat, especailly when/if you palm the reel.

Thanks Billy I will look into doing that. I have chopped several casting seats down and was able to trim several tenths off of them! Only problem with this one is it is a Cobra model so I will probably leave the back part on since it looks "cool". I pay very little attention now to cool but this seat just called my name! That is another reason I like the foam grips because I think they look really nice, are very light and should not "age" like cork does. The new seats and mini guides I think will take me to another level in function which is why I now have 6 "projects" going at once. That is the most I have ever had on my agenda at one time (I strickly build for self and wife). All the information here, in RodMaker and at the show just proves to me that every time I think I have building where I want it I am amased by what some of you folks come up with, thanks again all!

OH. WIth teh Cobra seat you better NOT cut it off - for teh price of the seat you MUST use every bit of it as possible, lol.