I want to make a 3 buff buffing system for my mini lathe and was wondering if any others out there have made similar setups,and if so,how they went about putting it all together?

What parts(mandrel,spacers,etc) did you use to mount the buffing wheels and how did you mount the setup to your lathe?

I want to be able to polish both the wood inserts and the nickel silver on the seats I have so I was planning on either making 2 separate 3 wheel buffing systems,or just using the one mandrel and swapping out the buffing wheels for each task.

I was planning on ordering most of the parts from K & G Knife Supplies(not sure if they have a suitable mandrel though so I was thinking of using one of the 1/2" or so threaded mandrels from Lamar along with suitable spacers) and noticed they have 1/4" and 3/4" wide loose buffs available in various diameters.I was planning on getting 3 of the 6" diameter x 3/4" wide buffs for the wood buffing setup,along with the White Diamond,Matchless White,and No Scratch Pink compounds.

I'm not really sure how I should set things up for doing the nickel silver though.

Should I use the same 3/4" wide buffs for doing the nickel silver hardware or would thinner 1/4" or 1/8" wide ones be better?

Should I use loose buffs for polishing this kind of hardware or would a sewn buff or 1/8" wide "razor edge" buff work better?

What about polishing compounds for nickel silver?Do I need something specific or would the Semichrome polish I have work OK?

Thanks for the help.
Tony

Tony,
I started to build my own buffing system but after pricing out the parts I think it is more cost affected to purchase the complete unit. I got mine from Lamar Fishing Company about four or five years ago but not sure if they still offer the buffing system.
You can check Penn State Industries I know they have a buffing system.
I’m not sure about nickel silver butting system set up and polishing compounds for nickel silver but I use the same system for buffing aluminum.

(Penn State Industries)
[www.pennstateind.com]

(My set up)
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Lynn Williams

Beall Industries makes exactly what you are looking for. Lamar also carried something similar (He's a sponsor so I'd hope you'd use his if you have to choose) and I liked that one better due to the way it chucked. The Beall system has a morse taper on one end so you have to remove your chuck to use it. Other than that, both are similar.

Most woodworking or woodturning supply houses would have the Beall model. Any of the Lamar Fishing Product dealers would carry that one if Andy still offers it.

....................

Tony, have you considered a basic bench grinder?

if you decide to use a non-sponsor Penn state industries has a small buffer that works great and doesn't take up space. i keep mine put away until needed as i have space issues. i just use a spring clamp to clamp it to my bench to work.

Lee Valley als has the Beall system.

[www.leevalley.com]

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

Tony check your mail for the link to the Beall Tool set-up.

Bill in WV

If you're buffing nickel, or aluminum you may want to have a separate set-up for metal. Using specific metal compounds and buffing certain metal components will turn your cloth wheels black.
I wouldn't want to use metal polishing compounds on my wheels where I would turn around and then buff acrylic or wood seats or handles. I would definately have a separate set-up.

Lance made a very good point. I learned that one the hard way many years ago.

A more simple system, might be to invest in the special quick-change arbor for buffing wheels. It looks like a tapered corkscrew and the buffing wheels have sold centers. You spin one off, and then spin one on. Just that quick. No nuts or washers to fool with. This way, you can swap wheels for different compounds in seconds and not have to devote an entire lathe to the set up. You can use a grinder or just chuck the quick-change arbor in your lathe chuck as you need it.

K&G would have these.

........

Tom is right - there are a series of these quick-change wheels and that would save you from having to buy two 3-wheel sets (one for wood, one for metal).

I just messed with Penn State for exactly the same thing and they are super to deal with!

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Tom,

I'll definately keep that in mind, as I'm fixing to get into accryllic turning, and some Corian. These awesome looking grips coming out have got the creative juices flowing, as with others I see.

Bill in WV

Tony Dowson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I want to make a 3 buff buffing system for my mini
> lathe and was wondering if any others out there
> have made similar setups,and if so,how they went
> about putting it all together?

Tom, you can make one easy enough.

You can use 1/2" allthread rod, some 8" flannel buffing wheels from HF or <[]?

some nuts and washers and you're on your way. I have a pics of a few homemade ones so if you're interested pm me and I'll email them to you.

Thanks for the help everyone.

I intended to have one 3 wheel system strictly for the wood and then get something separate for buffing the metal.I would never use the same buffing wheels for both.

I had email Andy Dear regarding his 3 buff system and would have definitely bought one but sadly they are no longer available.I have seen the Beall system advertised before and mentioned it to Andy,but was told that most of the compounds incuded are wrong,making the system a bit pricey for what you get.Andy actually recommended making one from a 1/2" threaded mandrel and the loose buff wheels,plus some spacers.

The Penn State model looks interesting and I will look into that a bit further to see what their shipping policy is(I'm located in Canada so I can only afford to purchase items that can be shipped by US Post) and see if it would fit my mini lathe.Price wise it is pretty reasonable I think.

Tom,the quick change arbour you mentioned might be the way to go.I will definitely look into that further.Thanks!

Does anyone know what kind of buffs I should be looking at for doing the nickel silver?Loose 1/2"-3/4" wide buffs like I would be using with the wood or thinner 1/8"-1/4" sewn buffs?

Thanks again.
Tony