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Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Shawn Queeney (---.arcdoors.com)
Date: March 14, 2008 01:42PM

Hey guys,

I have built a few saltwater rods in the 40-60# class. Both of these had an Aftco reel seat, but not a complete uni-butt setup with a ferrule, etc.

I built these rods the typical way with tape arbors (drywall tape on these heavier rods so there was gaps for the U40 to fit into). I have not had any complaints about them, but I have always wondered if there was a more secure or preferred method to do this?

I guess I am always a little leary about simple tape arbors and U40 holding a reel in place on a 50#+ rod, especially if/when you get a big tuna, amberjack, or billfish on the other side.

So, what is the most durable way to attach a reel seat on a heavy rod if you aren't using a full uni-butt type system?

Thanks,
Shawn

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Lynn Leary (---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: March 14, 2008 02:26PM

Hey Shawn,

Your leery, not leary. I'm Leary! lol..
I can't answer your question on a big rod like that but I have used the same methods to make arbors as you have with good results. Is the size available between the seat and where it mounts big enough to use a polyfoam arbor? Something like the Flex Coat ones? A recent article in Rod Maker showed how to pour and prepare a poly-urethane material to be used in making foam handles. The stuff that Flex Coat sells is fine but it is easy to crush. I bought some of the 8# foam and it is incredibly strong. After messing up my first attempt an a handle, I put the now scrap handle on the ground and jumped up and down on it. My 200# had no effect on it. Since the 8# foam is easy to shape could it be a good material to make your bushings out of?

Lynn Leary

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: March 14, 2008 03:52PM

Rigid arbors, or those made from the open mesh glass tape, are fine provided you do a good job in fitting the pieces, preparing the surfaces to accept the adhesive and get the adhesive on all mating parts. Read the online article on how to prepare surfaces prior to adhering. It will help you a lot.

Masking tape arbors are known to work, but for the time involved, I'd suggest using the urethane arbors (even quicker and much stronger) or the mesh glass tape. Take the time to properly fit all the pieces (snug, not tight nor sloppy loose) and a good epoxy such as RodBond or Ultimate Gel, etc. Not PC7 nor the liquid types (the latter will work but is much harder to get to stay put).

.................

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Ernie Johnson (---.maine.res.rr.com)
Date: March 14, 2008 04:51PM

Shawn

I have had tape arbors fail especially on the gimbal.

I never had a drywall fail. I have tried the big arbors that Acid Rod sells and it is a great idea for the bigger "3" reel seats from Aftco. Gotta lover the colors..

Ernie

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Sean Cheaney (---.206.175.24.cfl.res.rr.com)
Date: March 14, 2008 04:52PM

Several big name companies still use masking tape arbors and have no ill effects from them in the short term (until they run out of warranty). I have witnessed this first hand on quite a few of the lower end major offshore companies.

From this idea, I suspect you will be fine using the mesh tape just as I do. I have done many 50+ class rods with them and am yet to have one fail. It is all about how you prepare your surfaces.

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Shawn Queeney (---.arcdoors.com)
Date: March 14, 2008 05:00PM

What do you all do to the aluminum? ANything?

I know most seats come with ridges built into them...but is it really enough?

Thanks for the responses.

SQ

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Re: Heavy Saltwater rods and reel seat durability...
Posted by: Ernie Johnson (---.maine.res.rr.com)
Date: March 14, 2008 05:27PM

I prep the aluminum. Clean with 91 % ISO alcohol and then sandpaper. Then wipe down with a cloth.

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