I finally have my Jet lathe and turning tools, have been using it for various small projects but now that I am need to finish a cork grip for sons fly rod I don't seem to have everything I need? Purchased the gri mandrels from Andy Dear a few months ago and I don't think I have the right accessories to use the lathe/mandrel for grips? When I remove the spur center of the lathe, the mandrel is basically unattached to the lathe? If its a chuck I need, could someone here tell me what they'd recommend for the Jet lathe? Any reasonably priced options?
Thanks,


Tim Kelly



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2008 11:59AM by Tim Kelly.

Your Jet has a #2 Morse taper in the head and tailstock. Either a three or a four jaw chuck will do. Depending on the chuck you will need an adaptor plate with a 2 Morse taper to fit your headstock. A live center for the tailstock is something else you should have. Just a 60 degree revolving

You need a chuck, I would suggest a 4-jaw self centering one. I got mine from Penn State Industries. [www.pennstateind.com]

Depending on the length of your lathe bed, you could get by with a drill chuck on a MT2, mounted on the headstock. However if you are using an 18" mandrel and your bed is less than that you'd be well off with a four jaw chuck that has jaws which will close on the size mandrel you are using. The four jaw chuck will allow your mandrel to pass through the chuck and also through the opening in the headstock so that even if your bed is short, only the section of the mandrel you're using will be between the centers.

You can expect to spend anywhere between $80 and $200 (and more if you want) for a four jaw chuck with multiple jaw sets.

If you need some photos to see what I tried to explain above, drop me an email and I'll send some.

Jeff Shafer

As Jeff pointed out, you can get by with a $30-50 #2MT drill chuck. That's what I have on my lathe. However, I also have an extension bed, so I have the room to chuck the mandrel in the drill chuck, and put the other end in the tail stock.

Tim,

I have a TurnCrafter Pro with the same Morse 2 taper as you, But the thing you need to know for sure is the thread pitch of your head stock so that you can get the right chuck to thread onto it. Above that, I would suggest the Nova Midi chuck with the spiggot jaws. That's what I have and have yet to have a problem. BTW: I bought my chuck at WoodCraft for $95, and I think the Spiggot Jaw set was another $30. You may want to wait until the ICRBE, if you are going, to see what WoodCraft and the other outfit has at special show prices. You could save some serious money including shipping.

Bill in WV

That's why I'm bringing my truck. I intend to have one of these in it on the way back home.

But I'm going to need more stuff, as mentioned above. I know about the 4-jaw chuck, but some of the other things (well, actually, all of them) are things I don't know about. If anyone could email me a list of possible things I'm gonna need, then I can look for them at the show all at the same time.

Thanks
Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Russ, one thing that can't be stressed enough is buy good tools to go with it. The better the quality of the steel, equals less time spent sharpening, more time turning. You could get by with 3 basic tools; a 1/2" spindle gouge, 1/8" parting tool and a round nose skew.

You guys are great and I appreciate your help, all I really want to do is turn reelseats and grips on my lathe. Would this chuck allow me to do that?
[www.pennstateind.com]

The lathe I bought is the Jet JML-1014I. The mandrels are from Lamar, have the 1/4 & 3/8 mandrels so far. Once the mandrel is locked into the chuck, does the other end simply rest in the center point live? Sorry I have so many questions, but I've never used a lathe until now and the instructions with the lathe are incredibly basic.
Thanks,

Tim

Hi Tim
You are better off with the Teknatool Nova 4 jaw chuck with a couple of different sets of jaws so you can small to large things. Dont get a cheap chuck as you will regret it. Having a 4 jaw chuck lets you do a little more then a 3 jaw chuck as it is easier to grip square things with the 4 jaw then the 3 jaw chuck. Another good chuck brand is Vicmarc. The chuck comes with a set of jaws and will do up to a certain size (depending what chuck you buy) then you buy different sets of jaws that will do bigger or smaller then jaws that came with the chuck. Depending what size you want to do up or down to. You change the jaws in the chuck.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2008 11:48AM by Simon Oakley.

I have a cheap Harborfreight variable speed lathe .......... on the head stock I have a drill chuck on a MT-1 and the pointed live center on the tailstock. Just mount the mandril with the cork in the drill chuck and move the tail stock so the live center is firmly in the cone end of the mandril and tighten ........ turn on and check for an even spin and begin to sand ............ works beautifully ..........

bought the drillchuck from Harbor freight and the MT1 threaded from Home depot ......... this was very cheap ............ less than $20....... sounds like you need a MT-2 though

I have the 4 jaw Utility chuck from Penn State and have been using it for years and I absolutely love it!! It comes with 3 sets of jaws and will cover about any size stock. There are more expensive and probably better ones out there but this will do more than you will probably ever do. The Penn State Barracuda is also a very good chuck.

Less expensive doesn't necessarily mean less quality/performance

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I know what you are saying Mike. But if I was going to get the Penn State Barracuda $169 I would rather pay $199 and get the Super Nova 2 (it comes with a lifetime warranty) It is the industry standard and what all other chucks are measured against. I gaurantee if you go to a wood turning club most of the members will own and use the Nova. [www.highlandwoodworking.com]
And I bet if you shop around you can get it alot cheaper then that. I suppose it depends on how serious you are and how much you want to spend and if you like to own the best. I wouldnt buy a great lathe like the Jet then buy a cheap chuck. But that's me



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2008 11:45AM by Simon Oakley.

Tim

This is what I use for my mandrels [www.rodbuilding.org]. Its a 1" 8 TPI which is what you will need for the Jet I use a 4 jaw for square work ie reel seat blanks. Not sure what the other guys think but I prefer an independent 4 jaw chuck as blanks are not always "square" You will be fine with just a 60 degree live center in your tailstock. Make sure to get 60 as the mandrels are drilled with a 60 degree center drill. You dont need a lot of pressure. Just turn the handwheel on the tailstock until you feel it come to a stop. I choke the quill up as much as possible, move the tailstock close to the mandrel/work, lock it down then use the handwheel to touch the center into the mandrel.

Just my tupence worth

As you can see Tim, lots of opinions about types and brands of equipment. Take from this that a four jaw chuck will allow you to grip 1"x1" stock so you can bore the hole you'll need for inserting your mandrel (I'm speaking of wood you will want to turn into reel seats). As for which chuck, just try to be sure that the jaw sets will be capable of holding the sizes of wood you'll work with, and also hold the mandrel sizes you plan to use. I have only turned seats on Andy Dear's 3/8" mandrel, and my chuck holds that size (smaller if I want to use one of the other jaw sets that came with my chuck).

You will find that the Jet live center typically installed on the tailstock doesn't have a 60 degree taper, but Andy assured me that the 60 degree taper on his mandrels works fine with the Jet centers even though they won't match well. I haven't had a problem.

Something else that you will need to know is how your system is going to use up the space between centers. You have 14" to work with, so subtract the depth of the chuck you use to hold your mandrel or wood and you will know what's left for other functions. If you plan to bore your wood stock out on your lathe, you need to account for the length of the wood blank and the length of your bit. Quickly, you run out of room. I'm telling you this so you can begin to envision how you will use the lathe, and learn if there are any limitations you will need to overcome.

Feel free to ask other questions as you digest these postings.

Jeff Shafer

Scott, I had considered the collet chuck before because I thought it would provide the most room to work while turning but will the collet chuck allow you to run the mandrel through the center? I am concerned the mandrel will be too long to fit if not?
Jeff, I have the 1/4 & 3/8 Lamar mandrels but will probably use the 3/8" mandrel the most, what I had planned to do was use the 3/8 mandrel to build grips and reelseats, the reelseats would be drilled prior to be ing finished out on the mandrel. Your right I'll have to digest some of this information, I suppose I could solve this problem with one of the more expensive chucks but I am just a hobbyist and have to consider what I've already spent on the lathe and tools. But, I do want to make sure I have the right tools to do the job as this is important to me.
Thank you,

Tim

Tim,
I have a collet chuck in addition to a four jaw chuck. My Jet lathe has a 20" bed so I use the collet chuck to hold a 10" bit (mounted on the tail stock) while my four jaw chuck holds my wood blanks. Wood turns, bit doesn't. I may be wrong, but I don't think the collet chuck will allow your mandrel to pass through the morse taper. BTW, I am also a hobbyist. My first reel seat insert cost $800, the next cost $400.......

Jeff

Tim, if you're not in a rush Woodcraft and Penn run specials from time to time. I bought a Nova Midi chuck for around $80.00 from Woodcraft last year. I should have bought 2 though, it seems that every time I put the jaws on I have to take them off to do some thing else (lol).

In the photo I linked it shows just the end of the mandrel. The rest of it is sticking out the back of the headstock. I just like it because its small and doesnt get in the way. May I suggest you get Lamars video on lathe work. This will give you an idea of what to do SAFELY. Watch the video and make an informed decision of what you want to do with your lathe and what will be your best choices for tools.

Scott

Scott, I think the video would be great and I'll check this out. Thanks.

Tim



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2008 04:42PM by Tim Kelly.