I found these two articles by Bill and Tom really interesting. And Bill's statement about Steelhead drifting and watching the tip movement really struck home as I have lost numerous hookups by not knowing I had one on before it was too late. And in Tom's article he referenced Steve Gardner's statement about "strike detection" which really caused the wheels to turn.

Lately I haven't added any thread under my tip tops, just a 1/4" band of finish plus some over the edge of the tube for a smooth looking transition - wanting to keep it light. Then I wondered if anyone has ever wrapped a 3/4" - 1" long or so band of white or yellow thread at the tip to serve as an aid in detecting tip movement (strike detection)? My eyes seem to get older every year. I'd hate to be the only one on the river that looked like I dipped my rod in a bucket of paint but if I was the only one catching fish then I could live with that!

As far as Censitivity, if I test a blank with a light vs a heavy tip, the heavier tip should deflect the tip more even before I start adding pennies. But I still only deflect each one an additional 2" wouldn't the Centsitivity be that same - they'd just have different starting points? Thanks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2008 04:32PM by Tim Collins.

I often wrap the tip with Prizm, or holographic thread. It's actually thin mylar ribbon I believe. Very light and very eye catching for strike indication. Finish with one light coat of epoxy and your good to go.

If you define a rods sensitivity as how much of the change in the force at the end of the line or the energy input at the end of the line reaches the fisherman's hand then adding mass (weight) to the rod ANYWHERE on the rod is going to reduce the rods sensitivity.
Adding weight to the tip of the rod is especially problematic. If you believe that with a given input adding more weight to the tip of the rod will result in the tip moving farther so you can see it better then you had better think about it some more. The more weight that you add the less movement that there will be for a given amount of force or input energy.

Makes sense to me Emory - I must have misunderstood Tom's article about Steve's statement "that a rod that is more heavier out near the tip, is more sensitive in some fishing situations". I must have mistook "heavier" as adding a heavier tip top versus a tip section that was naturally heavier itself over a lighter tip section on another blank - my bad.

Tim,
If you misunderstood what was said in the article then so did I.
It is not actually weight that is the problem. Weight is the affect that gravity has on an object. The problem is actually the mass or actually the inertia that is the result of the mass. The more mass any object, including a fishing rod, has the more inertia it will have and inertia is the property of an object to resist any change in position or velocity. In other words the more mass you add to a rod the more inertia it has and the more inertia it has the more energy is required to move it. Or put in terms of sensitivity, the more mass the rod has, all other things being equal, the less sensitive it is.

Would a perfectly balanced rod change this since it would take very little to move it one direction or the other?

Henry,
If balance has to be achieved by adding mass then the sensitivity will be reduced.

Let me jump in here before this gets twisted up and people start messing up rods.

Mr. Kirkman included a small segment from a lengthily post and conversation that was held some time back. To include the whole thing would have added another article to the issue. But unfortunately as printed it is being misunderstood by a few that have read the “final thoughts” section of the mag.

First I NEVER add weight to a tip
Yes I shift balance towards the tip, but that is never done by adding weight, always by removing it.
Nor did Mr. Kirkman imply that I did. He simply stated that he would “never intentionally build a rod with a far forward balance.”

On rods were I add weight to them, it is always to move the balance further back closer to the reel seat, and that weight is added at the very back of the handle.

The rods I build, that are balanced out towards the tip are absolutely the lightest rods I build period!

“Henry",
"If balance has to be achieved by adding mass then the sensitivity will be reduced.”

Emory you might be right, But if done correctly. It can at the same time increase bite detection
And in fact will increase bite detection by a greater percentage then any (if any) loss of sensitivity.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/14/2008 01:56AM by Steve Gardner.

Before you can discuss this sort of thing, you have to define what you mean by sensitivity. Remember, some people keep their rods in rod holders and never touch them during the strike, but they need to be able to see what's happening rather than be able to feel it. Vice versa, others rely on what they can feel through the rod rather than what they can see.

The point of the article was to suggest that rod builders who want to be able to build the most sensitive rods for their customers need to spend some time with those customers and make sure they're both on the same page with regard to what the fisherman really means by "sensitivity." You can't properly fulfill your customer's requirements unless you know specifically what they are. What one fisherman refers to as sensitivity may be completely different than what the next fishermen thinks about when he uses the term sensitivity.

...............

I really missed the ball on this one. My intention was to have a Steelhead rod that I could detect a bite by seeing the tip move (I'm not going to "feel" many bites in Michigan winters with gloves on). Whether the rod is Censitive or Sensitive, I want to see it move not feel it move - should I be thinking more of a moderate action for this purpose? Thanks guys.

You will feel more strikes bites and hits with a faster-action rod than a moderate action rod in my experience. Why would you want to "watch" your rod tip when steelie fishing from the bank or wading? I'm just trying to understand...Is the water real slow and deep?

Paul

Paul;
For a couple of reasons some times the rods are in rod holders while drifting or trolling and maybe even when bank fishing. And when you are in Michigan fishing in the winter, it is so cold that you have really thick gloves on and much of your feel is lost. Being able to see the bite allows you to react quick enough to set the hook before the fish spits it out.

Well put Steve.

Paul - when I got into Steelhead fishing I started with a guide, from a drift boat, with fly rod, C & D with flies and egg patterns in March/April on a rather powerful river that never freezes over. Feeling the ticking along the gravel bottom was easy enough but I was taught to watch the rod tip - when it drops down, set the hook. And when the guide wasn't fixing our tackle, changing patterns, etc., he was always watching our rod tips and would yell out "pull" every once in awhile. He wanted us to get all of the slack out of the line and put tension on the fish as soon as we could before it had a chance to shake the hook. Personally I don't think it would make any difference whether you're on the bank, wading, or in boat but if you have a better technique I'd really like to hear it. Thanks.

STEVE AND TIM...

I can see where you guys are coming from now and can relate to what you guys are talking about-I kinda thought thats what you were thinking.

Tim...

The only time I really do think that it would matter is if you are using a float like on your fine float rod you built. Then, your only watching the float and not your rod tip.

Thanks for explaining yourself...

Paul