They seem to be more popular now, but I was wondering what the performance advantages are. Most casting rods are "tip" heavy and standard, but "heavier", rear grips tend to help balance the rod. Hence it would seem if you lighten the rear grip substantially, then you would have to lengthen it to keep the same balance point. Most rear grips are about as long as I like anyway (I don't have long arms) and any lengthening makes the rod awkward to use. Or is my thought process here faulty?

Thanks in advance for your opinions...

Split grips weigh a bit less - on my builds about 3/10-4/10 of an ounce. They do look different as well. Some folks like having the open area for art, labels, etc.

If your rods are "tip heavy" you need to move the reel seat until they balance properly, same on split grips.

Lee, your thought process isn't faulty at all. If you can balance a rod the way YOU like it while reducing weight - you've built a better rod. If you copycat what everyone else is doing, just to save weight, and have an unbalanced rod - you're pretty much on the same level as a factory rod.

Ditto to what Mr Vivona said

Ergonometrics are involved. Many bass fishermen want the sensitivity enhancement of the heel of the hand in contact with the blank. When this grip style is properly combined with a reel seat designed for maximum contact and the no foregrip set up there are performance enhancements as well as artistic values. They work, they are comfortable when done right and they are an upgrade to most any rod where overall weight becomes an issue for any reason. Just wait a couple of years - most of the production companies will bring splits to market and then the one piece grip will appear to be non conventional.

Lee, im a bass fisherman, Bill Stevens showed me how to build split grips, no fore grip and so on, i use them mainly on jigs, worms etc. one thing i have found is when a fish its the bait you really feel it,removing all that cork makes a difference, couple that with a spiral wraped rod you really have a advantage over the other guys. once again thanks Bill, Lee if your going to the show look up Bill Stevens

BIC doug

Thanks for the help. Now I want to try a split grip in combination with the sprial wrap, as long as I can keep the handle length reasonable. I have not done either on a bass rod yet, so I will use a less expensive blank. I believe there is plenty of information on spiral wraps. Does anyone have any advice on the spit grip: I plan on using a fuji exposed blank seat. Otherwise I would assume the grip against the reel seat should be short enough, and then tapered appropriately to allow the heal of the left (I am right-handed) to rest on the blank when "palming " the reel?

Lee, when im done with my rods, when palming the reel i have my pointing finger touching the blank where the threads use to be on the reel seat, i cut the excess threads off the reel seat, two fingers on blank at bottom of real seat and the back of my palm on blank, so im touching the blank in three places. in fact on a couple rods the cork at the back of the reel seat is just enough to make it a smooth thansition for my hand. inch to inch half maybe

BIC doug

Doug:

Great information here. Confirms what I was thinking. I just got back from a boat show (was working a booth promoting our bass club) and was looking at some of the split grip factory rods at the vendor next to us. The threads on the reel seat were not trimmed, and the rear grips were all 3 - 4 inches long. End result is that my "pointer" finger would not be able to touch the blank in front nor would my (or anyones) palm be able to touch the blank in the rear. Hence, no advantage to the split grip factory rods except weight and possibly aestetics. I am going to build mine to fit my hand with the three points of contact as you suggest.

Thanks....

Lee

How many production bass rods did you see at the boat show that looked like these?

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Your thought process isn't faulty.

But, most bass rods that I use are pretty light to begin with, so the loss of "balance" from the split grip is negligible. It might matter more if I used longer, more powerful rods. The higher-end blanks will also be lighter overall, thereby causing less need for weight near the back of the rod. Finally, for me personally, the "balance" of a rod doesn't seem like a very necessary element. Again, if I used longer, more powerful rods, it might be needed more.

As Bill has shown, there are a number of ways to lighten the overall weight of the rod, and get more fingers in direct contact with the blank. Split grips, the use of short pieces of cork/eva, and skeleton (or split) seats all help to lighten weight and increase sensitivity.

Plus, split grips just look more cool (IMO :^)

Less cork , less money spent.

I echo the comment.
Overwelming reason for split grips is less cork and less cost.

Cork is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain and the prices are rising dramatically.

I can see where cork grips will become a thing of the past in the not too far future.

Roger

Dear Doug,

Sorry, I see the post only now!
Regarding the spiral wrap bass rods: is this more sensitive than regular wrapping?
Please tell us more.

Thanks,

Rogerio de Paula