I have been building a bunch of rods and researched how to get a good finish. I am not getting the finish that I require. Too many bubbles etc.... I have tried everything I can think of to correct the problem. I am working on rods now, if you have time give me a call to talk about possible solutions.
Rob 617-283-5801

Boston, MA

What type of finish are you using?
How are you mixing?
How are you applying the finish?
What are you presently doing to try and correct your problems?

RodMaker Volume 9 #1 probably has all the information you need. Bubbles don't occur naturally in your finish - you have to be doing something to put them in there.

Don't mix quickly (a mechanical mixer is even better as it provides a bubble free mix right on the go).

Don't brush your finish on. Allow it to flow from the brush to the wrap without brushing anything. It should only take you about 15 seconds to coat a guide wrap. If it's taking you longer than that, there's a good chance you're brushing the finish on and this creates bubbles.

Don't heat the finish (or overheat) as this can boil some finishes and actually create more bubbles.

Nearly all finish problems result from the user trying to do too much to the finish - the stuff works well but you have to let it do what it knows how to do. too much intereference on the part of the user from thinning, heating, stirring, brushing, etc., only keep the finish from performing the way it could otherwise.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2008 08:50AM by Tom Kirkman.

Tom, read everything you have written about, Done them all. Still very little bubbles.
Rob

Boston, MA

Two part epoxies - Heat your shop and work faster. I am making the assumption that you are not talking about first coat application of poorly packed thread wraps. If you shop is above 70 and you put the finish on in thin enough coats, in less than 10 minutes, no matter how many bubbles are in the stuff they will ALL break out. If you are using Diamondite and overmixing the above MAY not be your answer.

Rob if you are referring to very tiny in size bubbles that is generally caused through mixing, you might want to consider Swifty finish that seems to be the very best I have found with bubble release but do a search on its use as it is different
John

I am trying to get my shop much warmer. I will see if it helps. I am working Permagloss and Flexcoat right now.

Boston, MA

You say you have "done them all." So you're using a mechanical mixer and still have tiny bubbles in your mix?

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Oh No!- Now Perm Gloss has been thrown into the mix. Bubbles in that stuff are caused by entirely different conditions. The outgassing of the solvents causes bubbles being internally trapped when it is applied to thick. If you are using Perma Gloss as a color preserver and then applying a two part over the top the bubbles are being caused by the Perma Gloss releasing bubbles. You problems can be fixed with details that are tough to get on an internet board. Do you know about humidity conditions for Perma Gloss cure?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2008 10:04AM by Bill Stevens.

Yes, made one like your article. I still get some small bubbles on the transfer to the syringe, and there is some in the mixing, but the only ones left are very small, but only a random amount of bubbles.

I am using flexcoat. I just made a wider stainless tool to apply a light coat with no bubbles. The coat so far is thin and not an even coat, but bubble free. The next coat I am hoping to level the finish. I shouldn't need 2 coats though.

Boston, MA

I am looking to achieve a professional bubble free finish. I like Permagloss finish and Flexcoat. I tried Diamondite,but for me it was worse than flexcoat.

Boston, MA

No. No. Permagloss testing by itself and flexcoat alone.

Boston, MA

Which finish are you having bubble problems? Where - over what - how many coats - temp of area - temperature of blank - time of application - flame - are you preheating finish components and diminishing the working time - "one liner" here will probably not get your problem solved. Check you email in a few minutes -

That's why I asked to talk to someone.
Rob

Boston, MA

i always have some tiny bubbles in my mix(flexcoat) but get rid of them after transferring to the foil by holding up to the light and exhaling warm air on it. my question is, what causes the dimples? instead of bubbles that are obviously air bubbles, i get dimples.

i use flex coat lite build the most and can get bubble free finish. so it's possible. good luck, wish i had time to call but i'm out of here headed to the mountains to find inclement weather and there are many many with more experience.

eric
fresno, ca.

Dimples are actually caused by contamination.

daniel burney Wrote:
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my question is,
what causes the dimples? instead of bubbles that
are obviously air bubbles, i get dimples.

Jim is correct, dimples are caused by contamination. After you pour it onto the foil, use a soda straw and gently blow all the bubbles away.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Concave dimples (craters) contamination - Convex Dimples (humps) thread stick ups or air escape volcanoes

hmmm maybe its time fer new syringes? other than gummed up(outside) syringes, i go straight from the flexcoat bottle to syringes, to throwaway mixing cups, to foil, i dont know. then i apply with throwaway flexcoat brushes to fresh painted (duplicote auto paint) rod, and newly wrapped guides.