Hi. I want to know your opinion on what is the best rpm speed for drying motor. I have a 20 rpm motor that I use for apply finish and for dry it, But on the forum I have read that a lot of you use slower motor , and I want to know why. Are there some type of problem using a 20 rpm instead of 10 or slower? Is there some difference between regular finish and hi build with the different speeds as a final result (lite build works better with a 10rpm because the higher speeds create a more football look)? Thank s a lot .
Paolo Cevenini

I like slow ... the slower the better. The Sully single dryer is nice - 22rpm for applying finish and 4rpm for drying.

The faster a drying motor is turning the higher the waves will be where excess finish is placed. Slow rpm allows the finish to level with a lessened the effect of rotating mass due to increased angular velocity. Bet you did not expect that from a rod twister and boat driver! Apply 200 rpm - Dry 2 - 6 here - If the right amount of finish is applied it really does not make a hoot.

I also applpy at 200 rpm and have a 4 and 6 rpm dryers. The best thing i have found though is putting the finish on thin and I get what I want in 2 coats mostly and really have no issues with the finish not setting up properly.

I apply by hand and dry at 4 rpm....Why? b/c thats the motor somebody suggested to me when i got started, but it works

what Bill said right on IME, in terms of angular velocity and right amount of finish

I agree with the posts above.
I also apply at 200 rpm and dry at 6 rpm.
Quick on the application - nice smooth edges, and then a nice slow dry so that everything will even nicely.
Take care
Roger

I've tried quite a few speeds and I find I get the best results with a 2/3 rpm motor. I hand turn for about the first 45-60 min then turn on the dryer.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I guess I'm on the other end of the "likes" - I like 36 - 40 RPM. Apply around guide feet slowly by hand; ramp up to high RPM (no idea how fast but likely 200 or better) to do the threads; turn @36; go over with an embossing gun (low heat) to break bubbles & warm the finish so it gets absorbed deeply into the threads and fills the tunnels then go back and reapply where thread shows above the finish. That's the way I do all the saltwater rods I do. On lightr freshwater rods I may or may not bother with the "touch up" overcoat .... I know, Iknow! Lots of customers like to see that super, depth/super glossy look on rod guides - for the folks who just want the lightest possible I allow the threads to poke above the finish (on guide wraps). Simply it's away to use epoxy in one coat that might take 3-5 coats of varnish.

Ditto....apply faster speeds, dry slower speeds. I have 3 & 4 rpm dryer motors and they work great.

Joe Douglas

I apply by hand and dry at 4 because I bought three motors at a discount parts store and they were all 4 RPM.

Question for you that apply at 200. Please go over your technique - I assume you need to apply by hand at the front of the guides? I am interested in building or buying a finish machine but can't wrap my brain around the procedure.

Thanks!

The 200 RPM setup I have is the motor and chuck from the Flex Coat system. You can get just the motor and the chuck, I got mine through Custom Tackle. The chuck is a slip clutch type chuck. All you do is grab the rod to stop it turning so you can look at things and get the epoxy everywhere you want it. The just let it go and its back to turning. I think the tension on the slip clutch can be adjusted too depending on the rod you are turning.

I apply at 200, dry at 4. The felxcoat rubber rod chuck rules/

I can find the Flex Coat clutch easy enough, but the 200 RPM motor???

Special order. Call Bob at Custom Tackle.

Thanks

I find I agree with Mike Barkely. I have tried quite a few speeds for drying in my time, and I find that the really slow 2-3 rpm gives me the best results I've had so far-but-I believe that ambient temperatures also make a difference, as does method of application. I am able to get a much flatter finish if I use a spatula for application, most definately on but wraps.
As for ambient temperatures, I live in the tropics and my rod building room is usually about 31 degrees centigrade, so its up in the 90's-this is very good for thread saturation. I have found that application with a brush seems to give me more problems with fine bubbles at these temperatures.

Earl, don't tell Mike you agree with him, 'cause we'll never hear the end of it.

Actually, I do too. We use units from 6rpm to 11rpm just because that's what we have, but hand turning at the first give some pretty spectacular results.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Uncle Russ,,,,I hate to do this,,but I agree with Mike .
I apply by hand and let her sit for a while , wick it, roll her over on her back , let her sit for a while, wick her again. After I quit wicking I roll her at 4 rpm.

Be nice, Unk!! LOL!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The speed of finish application has a lot to do with how many rods your are doing at a time. The correct amount of finish can be controlled with 1. brush pressure and rotating speed or 2. dumping and wicking - both will get the same results if done correctly. You can not do four rods out of the same mix pan of finish if you take the time to wick off the excess. The high application speed will allow the correct amount applied on the first go round. For drying there is not a lot of difference in 1 - 18 rpm dryers. The correct way is decided on what you are doing to get the correct amount of finish on the surface and turn it during the first few hours of cure. The number 2 method allows for more imbibing time to deaden the nerves.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/01/2008 01:30PM by Bill Stevens.