I'd like to hear a few tips and tricks when it comes to dealing with pastel type colors and getting nice even bright wraps. Colors like bright yellow, light blues give me a fit. What do you guys do to keep them clean, bright, and pretty before or after the wrap? I've used NCP threads and they are even worse than using plain nylon. No CP ever used here guys.

DR

If you aren't using NCP thread and are opposed to CP in general, you can just paint the blank white or silver in the area where you will be putting the thread. It only will add 15 minutes to your prep and the results are well worth it in my opinion. I use Krylon matt white. It dries quickly and has a great finish. I just tape the areas off, and wizz the blank a couple of times with a scotchbrite pad. After painting, you can safely wrap in about 15-20 minutes although I like to wait about an hour.

Unless you eventually get over your aversion to CP, you will continue to struggle with lighter, pastel colors. I personally don't much care for the "look" of NCP thread. I've also accept the fact that if I want to use lighter colored nylon threads, I will need to use CP, unless I am willing to accept the color change and/or seeing the tag ends of trim & inlay threads under the main wraps. I have heard many of the CP horror stories and the reasons so many believe it has no place on their bench, but I've also been using it for many years and to be honest, wouldn't want to be without it. Don't use it too often any more, but when I do, it's for a very specific reason and it's because it does what it's supposed to do - maintain the thread's color.

CP is a must. I dislike NCP more than I dislike CP. If you want bright colors, you have those two options.

Constant packing of the threads is also a key to keeping the wraps nice. Burnish well too.

You can get away with murder on black or other dark wraps, but the bright colors really show just how well you wrap.

When I made my color reference sticks I was in a bit of a rush and didn't pack/burnish like I typically do and it really showed. I had builders that use nothing but dark colors scoff at how often I pack my threads and that I even burnish my wraps so I had always wondered if I could quit doing those things. My color sticks really showed me that I was the one that was right.


......................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

I will second everything stated above. Getting light colored threads to be evenly colored on a dark blank is a royal PITA.

If you are dealing in areas that you must maintain a light pastel background and/or stark white thy this. Underwrap J Metallic Silver tightly tensioned and constantly packed (best on wrapper at high speed) - apply one coat Flexcoat CP - one hour - desired color A thread loosely tensioned and constantly packed at slightly lower tension than underlying thread. If you want it opaque use NCP on top and if you want deep shine through highlights use reg nylon A on top.

When using light colored threads on top of dark blanks the above is the best and quickest way to insure continuity of color.

Gon Fishn

Even with CP, you would be better off paintng the area white first. Why not use CP?? I rarely ever do a rod without CP and have never had a problem. Any problems are user error. Millions use it with no problems. There is no strength issue as it's used on many heavy salt rods. IMO, NCP looks dull and paint like. Give one it a try on a test, DR.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Im with mike cp is a must. Don't know why you wouldn't use it.

Dear Chef Billy B: I feel about CP on guide wrap thread the same was as I do about red roux and tomato in New Iberia Seafood Gumbo! }>

The attached picture is how white NCP comes out on a black blank when under wrapped with the J Metallic silver. I have tended to stay away from painting due to the possibility of a weakened paint bond to the finish on the blanks or to the overlying finish when used in heavy rough service. I did one with Krylon and it came loose - only waited 24 hours and the paint for plastic surface was not cured.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Gon Fishn



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2007 01:54PM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks guys!

DR

It's all about thread skills. No CP neccesary: [northeastrodbuilders.com] THis is done with a metallic Gold underwrap, with Black thread inlas in teh underwrap which show through the NYlon Yellow overwrap. If you dont' want to use an underwrap, the paintin gth eblank method will work exactly the same. Jus tnote where the guide foot is, if it is black it WILL appear as a stripe underneath.

I never use CP on guides, there's no reason to.

While underwrapping does work...its a lot of thread to be using on freshwater blanks.




.........................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

If you are slick, you can use size 00 thread with CP and it will probably weigh less than the paint people are recommending. Imo, so will size A, but it will add some bulk once the epoxy is applied. IF you're really anal about weight, get some Bennechi 12/0 fly tying thread and use that.

Duane - we use NCP for our pastels, plus CP as well.

We get the whitest white you can ever hope to see using "standard" Gudebrod white NCP. As has been said above, your wraps must be packed just-so, as a first step. Then we coat them with CP - a mixture we have figured out while waiting for Andy Dear to release his new stuff. A good "soaking" coat, overnight dry, then a second coat. We initially get some staining as the air works its way out, but it clears after drying. BTW, your wrapping pressure has to be as absolutely uniform as you can do, because that's where some of the staining comes from.

We do the same thing on other pastels. In particular, we've had miriad problems with Rice (when it's gone, it's gonna be gone for good) and Madiera. It takes a lot of patience and the extra time for the CP to dry, but we've had great results.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

An oldie but relevant goodie from the site's photo archives:

[www.rodbuilding.org]