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would this work??
Posted by: Tom Slater (---.qld.bigpond.net.au)
Date: November 21, 2007 05:50AM

i dunno if anyone has seen them but Fuji has these reel seats that are incorporated into the grips. like the reel foot slides down into a notch in the back grip then you turn the foregrip down to tighten it.

they are found here [shop.mudhole.com] (down the bottom of the page)

i just was wondering if they are any good like do they save weight are they shorter or longer than a standard set up. i want to use one on my new rod ill be making in a few months but what i was also interested in is cutting the rear grip and reshaping it and turning it into a split rear grip but still have the locking foregrip. just curious as to your thoughts on this and if it would work. just thought it would be something a bit different.

i wanted to turn it into a split grip so i could attempt my first holographic wrap in the space provided. how would i go about this aswell? would i wrap it first and then fit the grips so they cover the end of the wrap a bit or would i fit and glue the grips and then wrap, i am just thinking if i do the latter it will be a bit cramped for space.

it will be used on a 1-3kg graphite 7 foot blank for throwing small hardbodie and soft plastic lures in australia.


any help would be appreciated
thank you in advance

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Ted Morgan (---.tvlres.jcu.edu.au)
Date: November 21, 2007 10:17AM

Sounds like you are talking about the Fuji IPS seat. Nice seat, fills the hand well despite being only size 16. The HPS locking nut with the sleeve and cork is susceptible to splitting the cork if it is overtightened. The KDPS foregrip is better. There should be now worries incorporating it into a split grip. Frogley's down here sells the IPS handle kit with the shaped cork, as a split grip assembly with coloured metal winding checks (pricey though). Ray Jorgensen has a step by step picture tutorial on shaping the rear grip to fit the seat.

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Michael Sledden (---.fsepg.com)
Date: November 21, 2007 10:40AM

I would think you could buy the rear cork handle that Mudhole has there, and then cut out the section of the handle you didn't want to use. You would just need to make sure you leave enough of the cork to cover up the reelseat that inserts into the cork. I would also recomend the KDPS foregrip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2007 10:44AM by Mike Sledden.

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Billy Vivona (160.254.20.---)
Date: November 21, 2007 10:56AM


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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Ted Morgan (---.tvlres.jcu.edu.au)
Date: November 21, 2007 12:14PM

The NPS in downlocking, as Billy has posted, is another option in case you don't want to do all the cork work. With the IPS, I'd go with the seat body, KDPS locking nut (which can be trimmed), the cork for the foregrip, and the full length reargrip, as Mike suggested. Trim the reargrip to the length you want for the split grips, and trim the KDPS sleeve and foregrip cork.

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Chris Beverley (218.185.73.---)
Date: November 21, 2007 03:10PM

These are fantastic for light spinning outfits. I have built up half a dozen for my family and mates. We use the rod for soft plastic spinning in Sydney Harbour and land everything from Squid and Faltties to School Jewies and Rat Kings!!

Acid Rod have the cork adaptor for the rear if you don't weant the preshaped grip. Also, use the hooded sleeve rather than the other one for the foregrip. The hooded holds the reel a lot better.

Cheers
Chris

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: William Bartlett (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 21, 2007 04:11PM

If you'll check out the Merrick tackle site or Matagi's site, you'll see that Matagi has turned the IPS seat around on some of their set-ups to make it so that the butt grip does the tightening instead of the fore grip. I would say that this would be pretty practical with a little use of the noggin.

Bill in WV

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Tom Slater (---.qld.bigpond.net.au)
Date: November 22, 2007 01:49AM

thank you for the feedback.

Yes i was going to just buy the moulded reaer grip and cut the section in the middle out and reshape.

so i will get the forgrip with the hood it sounds like its the better option.

thankyou very much for all your input guys.

Tom Sater

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Tom Slater (---.qld.bigpond.net.au)
Date: November 22, 2007 01:49AM

ok so i am thinking this:

buy the: IPSM16/B Graphite Spinning Reel Seat Body
KDPS Quick-Lock Hooded Foregrip
Plus buy the moulded cork for each

then trim middle part out of rear cork handle thus turning it into a split grip, then trimming the KDPS forgrip part to whatever suits then reshaping the cork to suit.

Does that sound good to you guys?

or alternativly if i wanna try something completly new i try turning wood to make a split grip and just use a normal reel seat but ill trim it to fit my new reel so its shorter.

well thats my plan im going to my local shop on saturday they sell them ill have a look.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2007 02:03AM by Tom Slater.

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Jay Parkinson (---.dsl.sndg02.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 22, 2007 01:23PM

The KDPS foregrip will fit just about any Fuji seat. I bought a KDPS foregrip and am mating it with a Fuji ACS seat .I really like the clean look the KDPS gives, no threads showing on the seat. I am using EVA for rear and foregrip. Just have to bore out the EVA to fit the KDPS and ream out the forward part of the grip to allow clearance for the buttwrap. Never done a split-grip so I can't help you there.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2007 01:48PM by Jay Parkinson.

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Re: would this work??
Posted by: Ted Morgan (---.tvlres.jcu.edu.au)
Date: November 23, 2007 12:39AM

It'll fit any same sized seat except the SBS seat. Tom you are right on the money with the parts for the grip. You'll also need either a plug for the butt, or some kind of butt cap. Also, the cork is a standard 3/8 inch internal diameter, so you'll have to build up under the cork with something if the butt end of the blank is small enough that you don't have to ream the whole (split) reargrip.

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