I have just finished turning my first wood reel seat. Burled/Spaulted Maple. My question is what product should I use to preserve or waterproof it? I am torn on darkening with stain or spar varnish, or using something clear like Permagloss. It is going on a multi piece 6wt. The blank is a nice rootbeer color I puchased from one of the vendors on the left. Also any color suggestions? Copper accents? Thanks in advance for any suggestions...
JH

I like to use Super Glue and Boiled Linseed Oil for a finish. It's a little different to apply but I think the results are better than varnish and Permagloss. The link to applying is here [www.penturners.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2007 08:44AM by mark blabaum.

I agree with Mark - a superglue (also known as CA glue) finish is about the hardest, clearest finish you can put on wood. It's used alot by the pen turning guys - I've used it on reelseats and it works great!

I use a few coats of MinWax clear gloss polyurethane with 0000 steel wool in between coats.

Russ

Wow another inovation taught to me by Mike B!!! Thats cool I will try it thanks mike.

HUH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I should mention that the BLO is not a necessity either, you can just do a straight CA glue finish. It's personal preference - that link that Mark provided is a great tutorial on how to apply CA glue with BLO. Applying without BLO is virtually identical, just eliminate the BLO steps. It's not as easy as Russ F. makes it look, but it's not that hard either. Practice it on some scrap before you turn loose on an amboyna burl reelseat or anything :-) I use a straight CA finish, 2 coats of thin CA followed by 3 coats of medium or thick CA. Sand to 12000 micromesh, or 4000 micromesh followed by turtlewax buffing compound and then brasso. You will get a gorgeous shine!

Also, make sure don't glue your fingers together. Not that I've ever done that or anything. It's just that I suppose it could happen. Again, not that I would know....

I would have to agree with Rich. I usually sand it to 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper, the trick is to not over sand and take off all of the finish you just applied. I have also made a poor mans buffing wheel to mount on the lathe and use white diamond to bring out the shine after sanding. The shine is deep, hard, and strong like bull.

Permagloss or any standard thread finish like FlexC, ThreadM or the like.

DR

I personally soak my inserts for a couple of days in a very thinned varnish or danish oil finish. Stick it in a jar and put it in a window sill so it gets warmed and colled. Then I take it out, wipe it down, and dry it. Final finish is usually a few coats of Tru-oil.

Thanks to everyone...I will definately check out those tutorials. I have used Tru-Oil on some gun stock refinish jobs, and on some Birch bark & cork grips (with good results), but I am looking to try something else.
By the way, I hope to someday have an actual wood lathe, but for now, my hand-me-down drill press will have to do the job. Takes a little longer to do and I have to be very careful not to get it out of round like my first 2 tries...I'm sure the trout won't mind if it is a little less than perfect...
Thanks again,
JH