I have looked at many of the split grip reel seats being built today by both custom rod builders as well as commercial shops.

I have also built several variations of these rod styles myself.

I have also used all of these various styles of split grip reel seats.

I can only say one thing - I simply don't like any of them very much.

About the only thing that I can say that is good about the split grip reel seats is that they can save the builder some time and a great deal of mony by not putting expensive cork on the handle and taking the time to glue, shape and form it.


However, after giving these different grip and handle styles a good check out on the water - I have to say, that I won't continue to build any of this style grips for my own use.

Folks talk about weight savings, or better sensitivity etc. I simply don't think that it maks much sense.
A fishing rod needs to be balanced in my opinion, and the weight needs to be near the butt section of the rod so that it will be balanced. So, a person needs to either add a bit of weight at the extreme butt section of the rod, or have a couple of pieces of cork at the butt section of rod to balance the rod.

As far as feel is concerned, I really see little or no difference, in feel or sensitivity, whether I have my hand resting on a small cold uncomfortable raw blank, or a nice warm comfortably shaped piece of high quality cork.

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With respect to cost -
Yes, absolutely, there can be a huge difference in cost. With the price of cork going through the roof these days, a person can easily spend 40-7 0 in money and time to get a fulll sized beautiful cork back and fore grip installed on a rod.

Any thoughts??

Roger

I agree on the fishability of the split grip. I don't like it either as far as function goes. I'd much rather have a full grip. But, as I'm learning, the split grip is one of those things that custom builders offer that commercial companies don't and it's these things that set our rods apart from the production rods. In selling custom rods it is important to be able to offer something different to attract customers. And, some folks do like its functionality. We can also use the empty place to embellish the rod with marbleizing, labels, wraps, etc. Another unique quaility of custom rods. In the end though, it should be the users choice and the big picture is offering him his preference. Only custom builders can do that.

Any time you get a weight savings you're apt to get an increase in sensitivity. The question is, is it enough to justify using something which you obviously don't like? In your case it sounds like it isn't and I won't argue that point with you. Fishing rods also have to be comfortable and suited to the user for the best on-the-water experience. If you don't like split grips, you'd be wise not to build and use them.

You point about cost savings is well taken and certainly valid.

Many like them, but they're not for everbody. I don't use them myself.


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I think that it's strictly a personal preference! I build most rods with split grip/no foregrip (small ramp or big winding check type front cap), except for trolling rods. It has nothing to do with cost as I'm talking 3 or 4 inches and the time to glue/turn/shape/finish 2 grips (4 ends) is way more than to do one long grip. Especially with wood and/or acrylic. Almost all of my grips have wood/acrylic in them and the split grip does provide a significant weight difference. I agree that their is probably little advantage in performance/sensitivity but it's one more option that a custom rod offers. I use the split area for hook keeper, thread, marbling, decals, etc.

Not saying that this method is any better than any other but my customers really seem to prefer them that way. I have even converted factory rods for people.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I build split grips and here are the facts as I see it ...

1) You won't save ANY money on them - Why? There is less cork, but it takes more time since balancing and positioning take MUCH longer. The good news is that since the sections are shorter, the final fit and finish goes a bit quicker with fewer issues.

2) It does give a unique look. I am a 150% believer that form FOLLOWS function ... but it never hurts to have eye candy.

3) It offers another area to customize with thread art, marketing/technical labels, etc. OR just to have a blank exposed section of blank sandwiched between two lighter pieces of cork/wood to accentuate the beauty of the blank's finish.

4) I can offer it as an "custom option" without having to assess the client - grips are grips until you get into exotic materials with a high cost, the labor is the primary factor IMO and that doesn't change with this selection.

5) Finally, it typically results in a weight savings of 3/10-5/10 of an ounce. I consider that a significant issue when most of the rods that I build are between 3.0 and 5.0 ounces.

I didn't like the first split grip that I built either. But on my most recent spiral wrap project, I found that if I placed the reelseat/front split so that the underside of my forearm just ahead of my elbow "wedged" itself on the blank just in front of the rear split, it would lock the rod into a very stable postion. Since my casting reel is a bit heavy at nearly 12 ozs, I really liked the way it fished - I'll probably make a few more that way.

I really like split grips and don't see any disadvantages.

The portion of the grip where the hand rests NEEDS to be long enough to be comfortable for the user. The butt section of cork only needs to be long enough to provide a small platform for two-handed casting (i.e. mine are approx. 1.5" long). Other than those sections of cork, I never touched any of the middle section of my grip anyway. Now that I'm building rods, it seems a shame to spend $3-5 per inch to fill that area that I'll never touch.

There's no need for a foregrip on hardly any freshwater bass rod, which is what I build most of the time. On spinning rods for drop-shot fishing, I'll sometimes put a short (i.e. less than 1") cork ramp from the front of the front hood down to the blank. This is for those guys that put their forefinger on the blank. Same kind of ramp could be made from epoxy.

From a time standpoint, I guarantee that I spend more time building split grips, rather than straight cork grips. It takes quite a bit more time at the lathe to fashion two pieces of cork (and all their requisite contours) than it does just one.

When balance is an issue, I simply coat an appropriate sized lead sinker with Rod Bond, and shove it in the butt of the blank. But, I only ever mess with "balancing" when it's a heavy, long rod, which will be used exclusively for tip-up presentations.

If split grips don't make you happy, then you should build full cork grips. But for my taste, the weight savings (however slight), and an extra area for decoration are good enough reasons to use them. Plus, I just think split grips look really cool.

When I am checking the 'balance / feel' on a spinning rod, I am not holding it with two hands. I am holding it with my casting hand. On medium size and smaller spin rods ( because of the size of the reel) your hand needs very little space to grip the rod. I can grip my Split Grip SC111 5'6 spin rod with my eyes closed and not feel the split grip. I caught hundreds of bluegill and farm pond bass on it this summer and it was very rare that I ever needed to have my left hand on anything other than the reel handle. I have been cutting down reel seats to just fit the spinning reel I use to cut out unneeded length/weight. It surely is a matter of feel but I can't see what use the 3-5 inches of cork up to the butt piece has.

I ask my customers what they want in a fishing stick ,not try to sell them "eye candy"....if they want the bells and whistles and I am able to supply them with this they get it. I will venture to say that a good 90% of my customers want something to catch a fish on, not to impress the guy fishing next to him or the fish checking out whats at the end of the line. In the long run the customer will save lots of bucks not spending it on things he does not need except to impress. Explain the difference between the guides and weight and let him do his own choosing...after all he is the one who is fishing the stick. If the pockets are deep and they want eye candy give it to them, otherwise give them something they can afford and enjoy fishing with. I have never had a customer tell me how much they enjoyed having a fish tell them how great of a butt wrap they had or that the fish selected him because of all those pretty do-dads. If this rod is for yourself, then build it for yourself the way you want it.


Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fishin'Stix by Fred

Hi, I think that split grips are very functional if you match the size of the grip to the weight and size of the reel, also make them to a shape that fills the hand evenly that allows a looser gripping strength while casting. The correct shape and size can make for a very ergonomic handle that seems excellent to fish with all day long. ( for my needs anyway) If there is a any real weight savings between a split grip and conventional it would probably not be a hole lot of difference, except for wood, which I still have to add a little weight to balance out a wood split grip to my liking. I have toyed around making different sizes for a couple years and have ended up with three different shapes and sizes that seem to work well for different applications. At first I did not like the way split grips looked, then after fishing a few different sizes and shapes I would not want to fish with a straight handle. I think there are a lot of positives that can be accomplished with the split grips, it did take me a lot of handles to figure out different shapes and sizes that felt comfortable to me. I guess what I am trying to say is I do not think they are just eye candy, I think they have form and function. Have a great day, Rich.

I have built rods both with regular and split grips, and since I prefer to use burl cork, split grips are a weight savings (since burl is significantly more dense than regular cork). Cost isn't a big factor with me since I make just a few rods a year and they are for personal use or gifts.

I like the way split grip rods feel in the hand when casting with two hands. I like the fact that the lower hand has a defitnite shape to grip (the butt knob) and the feel of a smooth bit of blank on the fingers is not troubling to me. Feels good next to the knob.

I think the look of a rod is very important, and if I don't like the look of a rod, it bugs me and bugs me. If others are like me, they need to have the rod look the way they think it should, split or solid.

I like that space between the grips for the rodmaker decal and for me to sign and date the rods. The area in front of the front grip is then cleaner and simpler. I prefer that to the fancy wrapping schemes-again, just personal preference.

I may never make a solid grip rod again.

Rich,

I would like to see/hear more about your favourit sprit grip styles. Your Email ist hidden, so I ask you through the forum.

Olaf

Hi Olaf, I will try and post a photo of the three different sizes when I have a little more time. The smallest size split grip works very well for medium CB rods, used for rods that I like a pistol grip. I guess a rod that bends deeply in the blank and gives you plenty of leverage just palming the reel and fighting the fish. I built a spiral wrapped Rainshadow CB66M with the small grip and it is the easiest and nicest casting rod I have ever fished. I look forward to using it with trout spoons and eight pound test on my small Alpha bait-cast reel. The largest size split grip I used for a St. Croix Avid 68mxf and it is very nice for larger reels and perfect for two handed or single hand casting, very versatile rod also. The middle size I just finished with I think will work very well for any of the newer low profile casting reels and allow for comfortable one or two handed casting also, nine ounce reels and under. I think that just a little difference in shape and size seems to me to make a big difference in comfort for different fishing reels and applications. I think I finally achieved my three size split grips that when I hold the rods they feel more like a custom fit weapon handle than they do a fishing rod. ( To me anyway) I am finally happy with the shapes and sizes of my handles. Just glad it is over. I will work on a photo, Have a great day, Rich.

Thanks a Lot, Rich. Greeetings from Berlin, Germany

Roger;
look me up at the show in High Point, and I will show a rod or two that has spit grips and is balanced with out adding any extra weight.

Here is a split grip from last week. G Loomis HS9000-IMX. 7'6" Mag-Light Spinning Rod. Total weight 4.1 ounces. The rod was balanced perfectly to a Shimano Stella 3000FD with NO added weights, simply proper spacing.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Jim;
Looks good, I like the way you beveled the butt piece. I have one that way with graphite tubing. The contour fits the muscle of my forearm perfectly.

Best thing since grits

Thanks for all of the posts.
I appreaciate everyones comments. I can read and understand the advantages / disadvantages of each post.
Thanks again.
Roger

I wish all you builders would just "flock it" on this split grip stuff!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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Gon Fishn