Has anybody that is using the new Doug Weber cork cutting jugs (from CTS) found a good source (or substitute) for the Derlin jigs that Doug outlines in his instructions? I've got a method that I have been using for years and it works pretty well. However, Doug's idea of using a Derlin jig that will allow the glue (Titebond III) to be easily scrapped off as well as avoiding the the metal reaction associated with Titebond III, is very appealing.

I have contacted the source that Doug recommends in the instructions, but they seem to be just suppliers of the raw material and having the machine work done to build the Derlin jig would be considerable (especially to have a dozen or so made up).

As an aside, I'd like to thank Doug Weber for going to the effort to perfect and get the jigs to a retailer. I had been looking into having custom jigs made locally, but it was cost prohibitive and they wouldn't have been nearly as well built as Doug's. Also, like to thank CTS for stocking them. The jigs are high end specialty product, so I doubt that Bob will make much on them, but they sure are the answer to my quest for a better cork jig.

It is spelled delrin. You can get blocks of it at www.mcmaster.carr.com and it isent all that hard to mill. You can use mostly the same tools you use for wood and metal, finner teeth is best. It also goes by the name acetal, delrin is just its marketing name just like lexan/polycarbonate. It is also hard to get anything to stick to it because of its "self lubricating" proporties like you mentioned.

You can also get it at www.smallparts.com a little bit cheaper then at McMaster still a 6x6x1/2 piece is still 50.60 at small parts. I like the precision of those jigs I am just having alittle trouble getting over the time it takes to actually cut the parts espically if you cut the burl cork. But if I were to do it again I think I would buy them. Just my 2 cents Scott

The only problem that I see with the new jig is that I haven't been able to do acrylic or wood and it took me 5 jewelers blades and a LONG time to do one of Andy's rings. (It's me, not the jig). It is a great jig and VERY precise but I am going to look into havong a shop widen the slots enough to get a different saw in. At this point, although it only does 8 wedges instead of the 12 that the new one does, but I prefer the other aluminum jigs they sell until I learn to do better with the new ones.

The new one is Great and I'm not taking anything away from it for cork, but I need to somehow modify it for wood/acrylic. Any Ideas?????????

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Any pics of the new jig? WIth al the jigs and saws and stuff people buy to make a checkerboard...it's probably just as much to buy a bandsaw. lol.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I've never seen one of these jigs up close, but I'm considering purchasing one. I'm wondering if a coping saw would work? You can get various TPI for fine to aggressive cutting. Is a jewelers saw about the same? Has anyone tried a coping saw?

The slots are .010" and the jewelers blade a like a fine wire with a burr edge. They are VERY fragile and the first time I used it, it took me 9 blades to cut ONE ring. They come in gross lots, which should tell you something. I haven't been able to find any saws that will fit it

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,

This evening, I've found coping blades at .011 thick, 32 TPI, and a 1/4" high profile. That's a pretty snug fit in a .010 slot.

Darrell

Thanks for the leads on the Delrin. With a little 'Google work' I found a place in Portland, WA (Plastic Machine Company), that sells Delrin 'collars for $13.53 each in lots 1-5. They are now looking into the cost of cutting back pieces and plungers. I'll post the results if they come up with something.

About breaking the saw blades, I guess I've just been luck, but I the first time that I used the jig I cut about 20 rings, including 6 of Andy's burnt rings and I only broke one blade. For me, building the wooden stand for holding the saw and jug really helped. Since the blades only cost about $20 for 144, braking a few isn't an issue for me. It does take awhile to cut anything other than traditional cork, but I am willing to pay that price for the precision that the jig provides.