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Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
Mike Casey
(---.blng.qwest.net)
Date: November 05, 2007 09:34AM
The Oct 2007 edition of Consumer Reports ran an article rating "household glues". It rated Elmer's ProBond interior/exterior Wood Glue and Titebond III as "best for wood applications". That started me thinking about a problem that I have with Titebond III. I've used Titebond III for my cork work since it came out, but it is tough on mandrels (even with a paraffin coat on them). I'd appreciate hearing from those of you that have used the the Elmer's Pro for their cork work, especially about how it reacts with the mandrels. Re: Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
Mike Barkley
(---.try.wideopenwest.com)
Date: November 05, 2007 10:23AM
I don't think that it will be any better on them. I glue up on threaded rod and then transfer to mandrels for sanding/shaping. Use a piece of sandpaper on the mandrel while spinning on the lathe and they will look like new. Mike (Southgate, MI) If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!! Re: Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
Scott Parsons
(205.244.119.---)
Date: November 05, 2007 10:58AM
Ditto what Mike said. I also clean mine with sandpaper after I'm done. Re: Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
Rich Handrick
(---.dot.state.wi.us)
Date: November 05, 2007 11:07AM
I've done it like Mike does and just with gluing up on the mandrel with TBIII. If/when the mandrel gets gunked up, I put it on the lathe bare and hit it with a 3m scotchbrite pad - cleans it right up..... Re: Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
Mark Blabaum
(---.dsl.mhtc.net)
Date: November 05, 2007 11:19AM
I drilled a couple of 5/16" holes in a couple of cheap kwik clamps. I glue the cork together on the mandrel and clamp it between the jaws with the mandrel sticking out both ends of the clamp. After the cork and mandrel assy is clamped I pull the mandrel out before the glue has time to set up on the mandrel. If you look down the hole in the jaws of the clamp you will see that the cork is still in place and usually has not moved. When you want to turn the cork re-insert the mandrel and turn as usual. The glue that has seeped out inside will make it rough enough so the cork doesn't easily spin on the mandrel. It works for me, but others may have problems getting the hang of pulling the mandrel out, with out disturbing the cork. Re: Elmer's Pro Bond vs. Titebond III
Posted by:
robert schuler
(---.delv.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 05, 2007 05:25PM
I used Probond on my last two rods instead of epoxy. I also use it to build musical instruments. Its very strong. I prefit each ring to the blank dry. Then I carefully apply glue to cork rings in a very thin layer but not within 1/8" from the center hole. then I assemble them on a 1/4-20 rod to dry. Then I reinstall the mandrel after the glue has dried... Bob. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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