I can't seem to find a thread about the guide/ring sizes compared to line weights. If there is a post just point me in the right direction.

All the kits I've seen don't mention what line weight they'll work with. Is there a chart or rule that will help me (a newb) and others choose the best guide for the line weight as well as mono or braid. Example: Why would a size 8 tip top be overkill for a 4-6lb test mono? Would a size 4 tip top be a hindrance for 17lb braid?

Just starting out I'd like to start out doing it the right way and not just buying kits.

Ash,
We need more info to help you. Spinning, casting? The best way to do it for a spinning rod is to buy one each of the brand guides you like and multiple tip guides, keep them on a spot to be used only for sizing and test casting. When you find the setup you like, order your guides.

Sorry about that. They'll be for casting rods. Does mono and braid make a difference?

What type of size #8 do you refer to? There are two possible "size #8's" involved here - the internal diameter of the tip-top guide ring in millimeters, or the outside diameter of the tip-top tube which fits over the small end of the blank, measured in 64ths of an inch. I know it's confusing and perhaps nonsensical, but don't blame me.

Ash,
In my opinion, the determining factor would be the size of any knots/connections that need to pass through the guide. I want the smallest guide that will pass any any knots, etc. I don't think that the line size/type has any bearing on guide size. I regularly use size 8 alconite fly guides on spral wrapped musky rods. To me, the weight in the forward end of the rod is the most important thing so I use as small guides as I can. This also allows you to use more guides than normal for better distribution/path without additional weight. For maximum performance, I would stay away from any guide kits as they don't know anything about the type of rod you are building and use way too many sizes. I rarely use more than 3 sizes on a rod (4 at most)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

A bit more complicated than just the ring size. To me anyway. There is a big difference in the ring thicknesses and in the frame strengths. Yeah, ratings as per rod blanks would be nice!
For instance, I have a bunch of BTVHG PacBay's that just arrived. I was thinking to use on a relatively heavy rod (20-40#) for the lighter guides toward the tip, but they look fairly minimal to my eyes now that I have them.
As one of the posters mentioned, accumulating some sample stock sure is nice to judge from. I wonder how many samples some of the old folk have collected? :-)

Ash;
I use 2.5 mm guides with 20 lb braids and 10-15 lb fluorocarbon.
4mm guides with 50-60 pound braids and 20 floro.
They most likely will handle 25-30 mono I just don't use that heavy of line in mono on my flipping sticks.

And I am fixing to do some testing to see if I can get the same performance out of 3mm or 3.5 mm on the same size braids

But if you are just starting out I would suggest you use 5 or 6mm to begin with the little guides and be tricky to work with and would be to your advantage to learn using slightly bigger guides.

But like Mike said if your not passing knots through the guides you want to use the smallest you can get away with. It will improve the performance and balance of your rods all the way around in my opinion.

Dave is also correct about the strength issue depending on what you’re fishing for. My rods are built specifically for bass fishing

Steve,,, they may be more to it than just the strength bit. For instance, I look at a Fuji Hardalloy and a PacBay Hialloy. Same nominal size rings, and similar frames. But the Fuji ring (other than being gray) is also thicker front to back. The PacBays look more like a Fuji Alconites, ringwise. I haven't decided if the more massive ring on the Fuji is good or bad though. More surface area might mean more durability and better as a heat sink, and yet perhaps also having more surface area friction and less protected by the metal frame (because it sticks out more). Short of having real data, it is a bit of a guessing game.

Then there's the Batson (and some other brands) that have an actual shock-ring or cushion ring between the ceramic and the guide frame. Heavy, they are, but sturdy.

As has been said above, I want a ring that'll pass the knots, although not necessarily hardware (like swivels). We tend to use larger guides in oiur designs, so line size isn't generally a factor for us. In fact, the real question we get all the time is about the ability of the guide to withstand the braids and no-stretch stuff (like Spiderwire) without grooving, which of course is a whole 'nother discussion.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Thanks for the answers guys. I appreciate it a lot.