Doesn't the Renzetti foot control come with an adjuster on the bottom? All you guys who have this unit, hasn't anyone noticed it? I don't have it, but I'm pretty sure when my friend Paul got his, it wen tfrom 0-5000 on a touch. Turning the dial somewhere allowed my to step oon the pedal full blast adn have teh rod spin like 10 RPMs.

Billy

You are correct that the foot control does have a trip pot on the bottom of it and the one that I have provides a measure of control on the starting speed of the motor although it can be a bit jerky down at the very bottom end. I only mentioned the speed control as part of my first post where it was asked if the 1/10 HP would be large enough to turn grips and I recommended he use the 1/4 HP turning motor for that purpose. The ideal set up for wrapping would be a full DC motor with a reversing switch however according to the unit used would require a diode bridge and probably a transformer plus the expense of the full DC motor. Not too many people would want to spend extra $400 or so dollars it would take to purchase this set up when the stock set up will get you by. I cannot personally use a fraction of the speed the 8000 RPM provides while I am wrapping guides or for that matter laying down the under wraps. Since I have other sources for turning grips there is no reason to have a motor that turns at this speed.
I suspect that the motor used on this set up is useing a diode or small bridge in the motor houseing for direction control and am giving some thought to peeling it open, removing the bridge, installing it ih a remote box with a DPDT switch and makeing the motor reversiable, I will be surprised if it is not possible to do so. I could as a matter of fact just leave the speed system alone and continue useing the unit as is, it does an overall good job. I see it as nothing ventured nothing gained.

Charlie R

Holy cow. I've had the Renzettin all these years, and never knew there was an adjustment screw at the bottom of the foot pedal (I just ran downstairs to check).

In truth, the 1/10 hp motor and standard foot pedal work great as is to turn cork and hypalon. I've made a whole lot of grips on mine for the last 5 years without ever thinking I needed anything else. It will also turn S-L-O-W once you get the feel for it- even if you don't know there is an adjustment screw.

The original 1/15HP motor utilized a foot control that was not adjustable, although you could gain great control with just a little practice. The solid state foot control supplied with the 1/10HP motor does have an adjustment, but again, it's really not needed. These things work extremely well once you get in some practice time. It just takes some hours behind the lathe.

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I find that wrapping guides on small bore rods is quite easy when you utilize a reversable, variable speed, torque adjustable, self aligning device on both ends of the rod. I am unable to achieve the rotational velocities noted in this thread. They are quite cheap to operate and require no electrical service requirements. I do have a problem with shaking at present. When mine quit working I will find it necessary to stop rod building.

I am getting the Renzetti with the 1/10hp donk!! This should also solve my off centre issues.

Charlie,

If your Renzetti does in fact have a bridge rectifier in it, and you want to change the motor direction remotely, you do not have to move (relocate) the bridge rectifier. It is only necessary to rewire the bridge and motor as shown in this diagram as follows:

1). Disconnect the motor wires on the bridge terminals marked plus (+) and minus
(-) on this schematic, and then reconnect these 2 motor wires (shown red and black in diagram) to the center poles of the remote mounted DPDT switch.

2). Add 2 new wires to the bridge of sufficient length to reach the remote mounted DPDT switch. Connect one end of one of these wires to the plus (+) terminal of the rectifier and connect the other end of the same wire to the top right terminal of the remote mounted DPDT switch, as shown in red in the diagram. Then do the same for the second remote wire, by connecting one end of the remote wire to the negative (-) terminal of the bridge, and the other end of this same wire to the top left terminal of the DPDT switch, as shown in black in the diagram.

I realize that you may already know how to do this wiring modification, but I have posted these detailed instructions just in case that it may help you and other readers who also might be interested.

This diagram is shown at this link:

[www.rodbuilding.org]


Rena