My first attempt at using a long (16") wrap is becomming a real headache. My first coat of finish didn't level out the way it should have and left high and low spots. I've put 2 more coats on (total 3) and each coat seemed to help smooth it out as it is not nearly as "bumpy" as it originally was.

I don't know what to do next. Should I apply 4th coat and perhaps a 5th? The wrap is at the butt end of the rod so I don't think it will change the characteristics of the rod except for adding weight, most of which will be behind the reel seat in a part of the blank that dosen't flex much if any.

I've thought about sanding the finish using a sanding block and superfine sandpaper 1500 grit but the last time I tried sanding I didn't really have the kind of success I wanted as I was never able to get the finish I wanted.

I would rather be able to fix what I have as I always have the option of taking everything off and starting over.

I would really like to get feedback if this has happened to others and what they did to fix it.

When you get hills and valleys over butt wraps the only way to fix it is to use a sanding block or girt stick to level. Additional coats on top will not help. It is not necessary to use the fine grit sizes you note. You can start with a 220 stick to leven and maybe finish with a 400 for a short time. It will look all scratched up when you get it level. Do not wipe down with any solvent - simply dust over and blow off loose material. Apply a top coat of finish and take care to remove any excess finish and it will be fine. This will be a realatively easy fix and it should not require you to strip and redo.

Sanding Stix Link

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2007 08:10AM by Bill Stevens.

Remember that if you're attempting to cover a long butt wrap (open diamond or chevron) you won't get a level finish. You'll get a finish that mimicks the surface of the wrap, which is high on the centers and low in the areas between centers.

What Bill has recommended is one way to achieve what you want. Or... next time, you can apply finish in the openings of the wrap, let set and apply more until those low areas are filled, and then finish the entire wrap. A lot of trouble in my opinion, but it's one more way to do it.

At this point, I think you're left with sanding. Use a block, of course.

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Tom what a great suggestion! Never thought of that but it's soo simple. At this point I would too sand it down and apply another coat. Bill where do I find those sanding sticks?

Thanks for the input and suggestions. It looks like sanding is the way to go. I forgot to mention the wrap is a tiger wrap that when completed I hope to post pictures of.

Bill, what is behind the "don't use any solvent, just blow off" isn't this asking for problems? No water, or tak cloth just blow off the dust?

Tom, are the strips you're talking about the same flex strips that used to be used to file the points on a distributor when cars still had points?

Didn't mention "strips" so can't really advise you there.

On the longer, flat wraps, you have to be very careful not to apply too much finish at one time. It's tempting, but you don't want to put on more of the stuff than the finish can support. You should be able to easily block sand the surface very flat and then recoat. Shouldn't be too much of a problem for you.

Just dust off any sanding residue with a soft brush and recoat. Don't wipe the surface with water or alcohol. You don't need a tack rag, either.

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when i have to sand i dust the wrap off with a brush or use a coffee filter....when i do an open wrap i put a few coats on the whole wrap and get it nice and thich and sand everything smooth with 1500g paper and then put on a thin coat and its comes out pretty flat(just have to put on a couple coats so you can fill the holes)

A little trick Mike Barkley taught me . When you put the first coat of finish on a butt wrap, put it on with an old credit card. The credit card will squeegee the finish off the high areas and fill the low areas. It appears the finish wants to be the same thickness in the high and low areas. By using a credit card you hamper its ability to do that. Use the credit card on the second coat also. It works for me.

You can also use plain playing cards. You can cut them to whatever length you need and 52 spatulas cost way less than a buck at any dollar store

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

i definately need to try that

Hey ,, a playing card is even better. It's not as stiff ! Thanks Mike.