I must admit I look for any reason to build another rod. Last year I built two float rods (one wasn't enough) to go with my Islander Steelheader - great outfit if I could ever learn to cast it better. This summer I built two spiral wrapped casting rods and really enjoyed using them recently. I was using them with floats and they worked well except I couldn't keep the line off the water like I can with the 13' rods.

Sooooooo, I was wondering if anyone had ever build a float rod set up with a casting reel? The casting reel may not be as smooth as a centerpin but I would think it could work reasonably well if built as a spiral wrap - and I could cast it a whole lot better. The biggest disadvantage I can think of would be rod balance since I use the "Michigan-style" long foregrip to help balance the float rod and that could be difficult with the reel/line on top. Just wondering if anyone had ever tried this before? Thanks.

Tim,
I use a 10 ft 6 in casting float rod all the time. I use a superline to help as it floats. All this hooey about absolutely having to have all the line off the water I think is overrated a little as I pick up way to many fish on the swing of the float to my side of the river just as the water depth gets to their discomfort zone and they have to decide what to do.
You also see a bunch of Canadians, a big bunch, using casting rods instead of spinning or centerpin reels.
I use a 14 inch rear grip and I haven't noticed a balance problem with the rod in the high stick position during the float.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2007 03:58PM by Spencer Phipps.

Thanks Spencer, when you say "on the swing of the float to my side of the river" are you letting the float "swing in an arc" by holding the float back or just letting it go in the direction the current takes it? Thanks again.

I fish mostly marabou jigs or jig/spawn sack combos and at the tailout or end of the drift on big runs I just swing the float over to my side of the river before retrieving. Same thing the drift bait fisherman do or the fly anglers with a wet fly drift.
Steelhead no matter what presentation you use will many times set back with the river current as your gear approaches and when the bottom depth starts changing they will move off to the side or attack to get the gear out of their way, if they swing off to your side of the river and the gear follows they usually really nail it and you have no doubt they are there.
That's how the "curtain of death" maneuver works for plug pullers they set a big pattern of plugs out with a few boats and drop back with the current, they give the poor fish no choice, either drop back out of the hole and come back up later or attack a plug. It's very effective hence the name.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2007 03:56PM by Spencer Phipps.

Rod Blank Model # XST1263
Butt cap: evabc20
Front Cap:
Rear Grip: rg14a-350
Handle Arbor:
Reel Seat: gtbtg16c-130-tc
Reel Seat Shim
Foregrip: fg35a-250
Winding Check: bwc10
Hookeeper: tchks
Tip Top ltcput06r04.5
1st guide from tip top ltcfug06
2nd guide from tip top ltcfug06
3rd guide from tip top ltcfug06
4th guide from tip top ltcfug06
5th guide from tip top: ltcfug07
6th guide from tip top: ltcfug07
7th guide from tip top: ltcfug08
8th guide from tip top: ltcudug08
9th guide from tip top: ltcudug10
10th guide from tip top: ltcudug10
11th guide from tip top: ltcudug12
12th guide from tip top:
13th guide from tip top:
14th guide from tip top:
15th guide from tip top:
16th guide from tip top:
Guide spacing Specs(inches from tip, center ring over mark) 4.25-9-14.25-20.25-27-34.5-43-52.5-62.75-74-86
Butt wrap length
Tip wrap length smallest possible
Main Thread Color dark blue gudebrod#0246 size "A"
Trim Thread Color Metalic silver size "A" #9002

Thanks Karry, actually I have that exact blank built with as an Acid Wrap with the help of Mark Griffin. I was thinking of building one of your 13 footers as a spiral wrap because I love my casting reel as it is easier to use than my centerpin. Thanks again.

Yes the 1562 is very populare, but I just dont see a use for it in my boat. I run Slip floats so the casting length of the rod is not necesary and I use braided line as well because of the zero stretch for setting the hook also makes mending is a cinch. Most of my rods are set up with casting reels and the Chronarch is my reel of choice, left hand retrieve.

Karry brought up an excellent maneuver that I see few of the newer anglers using while drift or float fishing, mending the line. This little trick works as great here as it does flyfishing. Let's me fish over more varied conditions without re-rigging. Especially in drift fishing, it lets me work more of a hole without weight changes and possible hangups fine tuning the setup.

Tim,

A float rod is not a floatrod until it has centerpin reel on it. If the handle and guides used and are built to accept a casting reel (levelwind) then it is just a long casting rod, or AKA a drift rod. I know it seems like sematics, and I will get 3 replys back saying that too, but truthfully that is what it is.

I can vouch for the 13 foot 10# Rainshadow as being a great rod for what you want to do. I built the same rod for a casting reel as well, and really like it. For fishing long drifts though, the centerpin reel wins hands down. I prefer not to use barided line up here in AK for the reason of the wind. The wind tkes the stuff and throws it around for me. Plus, by the end of the day the first 15-20 feet of it sinks like a brick. And when making 200 foot drifts, using line that floats is such a ++++.

Anyway, good luck on the build, and make sure yo get some good instruction on casting than fine centerpin reel of yours...your missing out if you don't.

Take care,
Paul