Sometimes while using my powerwrapper I will need to spin the rod by hand. The rheostat / motor combination I have can be spastic and spin too many revolutions.

While working toward the butt end I generally have no problem spinning the rod by hand working against the drag of the motor assembly, It's when I'm down toward the top guides that I have a hard time spinning the rod with these old arthritic fingers. The skinny diameter of the blank at the top end provides no leverage or grip.

Has anyone had this problem, and if so what is a solution short of removing the belt? I thought of making some sort of split cork grip that could be wire tied or taped to the blank that could provide the leverage.

...any ideas?

Bob

Bob,

I am new to this, but I can tell you what I do. I have a Pacific Bay power wrapper. When I need to turn the rod manually, I just open the chuck jaws, and the rod turns easily with no resistance.

I could not get the hang of the power wrapper initially, and I built my first rod turning it by hand in the power wrapper.

Hope this helps

Bert Nagy

I pop the drive belt off, or I turn by the tip top....probably not the best idea, but I check the alignment of everything when done.

Guess I should add here that I can see that twisting on the tip is a bad Idea.....



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/19/2007 04:30PM by Bill Lane.

I use a piece of EVA sliced down one side and a nylon tie to secure it to the blank.Makes a nice handle to turn with.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

That one used to bother me too. My wrapper is basically mostly home made now. I changed out that ac motor to a dc motor and now with a switch, I can change the polarity of the motor so that it will now run in both directions. Still have to reach for that switch though. I plan to rewire the switch and put it next to my foot control. That way, I can change the switch with my foot.

I've had the same problem and used to reach as far down the rod as I could to turn it. Now I've just gotten better with my foot control. I'm guessing if you have a Rheostat that you have some version of the Pac Bay machine. If I were you I'd just turn down the rheostat for the tip section. This will allow you a bit ore control at low RPM's

Bob,
Over the years, I made many different variations of power wrappers.
After many different machines, I have found that you need a power wrapper to have the following characteristics:

1. Be able to reliably start, stop and wind at 1/2 rpm.
2. Have a maximum top speed of 300 rpm.
3. Be able to quickly and easily reverse direction.
4. Be foot control.

As one of the other posts suggested, my current machine is a dc operated machine, that is easy to reverse. Because it is a dc gear motor with a 300 rpm top speed, it is very easy to achieve the 1/2 rpm that is so necessary when starting wraps.
The foot control allows use of both hands. The reverse, allows one to quickly and easily reverse direction.

Roger

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bob,
> Over the years, I made many different variations
> of power wrappers.
> After many different machines, I have found that
> you need a power wrapper to have the following
> characteristics:
>
> 1. Be able to reliably start, stop and wind at 1/2
> rpm.
> 2. Have a maximum top speed of 300 rpm.
> 3. Be able to quickly and easily reverse
> direction.
> 4. Be foot control.
>
> As one of the other posts suggested, my current
> machine is a dc operated machine, that is easy to
> reverse. Because it is a dc gear motor with a 300
> rpm top speed, it is very easy to achieve the 1/2
> rpm that is so necessary when starting wraps.
> The foot control allows use of both hands. The
> reverse, allows one to quickly and easily reverse
> direction.
>


What I have is a Pac Bay chuck mounted to a cheap @#$%& sewing machine motor with foot rheostat plugged into a dimmer switch. Ultimately controlable except the dog doesnt like to start turning with the wattage turned down. I like the idea of a chunk of eva placed on the rod close to the area youre workin on


Roger did you build the rig you described or is it store bought? Does the Renzetti have these specs? If you built it how about part numbers etc so it can be duped.

Thanx

Bob

For our PacBay unit with the "DeLuxe" chuck, we chuck the rod using a wrap or two of painter's tape over the butt, to give the chuck a better grip. Then we disengage the drive belt.

We never turn the rod by the tip.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I do the same when doing a freshwater rod tht does not require long wraps. What I do it simple not lock the rod in the chuck I just clamp it down with the rod support wheels it does not move side to side or come lose. Note* I am not using a pac bay tho not sure if the pac bay can do this.

Robert,
I have a renzetti and wouldn't trade it for anything. I have an old pac bay and consider it a toy next to the renzetti. Now thats my opinion and other people may disagree. The renzetti bearings seem to be real smooth so turning mine by hane at the tip is real easy. It will turn easly in reverse by hand also. The one thing i would do different with it if i designed it is it has no reverse in the motor. I actually bought a second motor and chuck going in the opposite direction. There both on the same rail just facing each other that way instead of moving I can just flip the rod. Hope that helps billy

Get in the habit of wrapping the largest guides first and use the wrapped guides to turn the blank.I learned this many years ago when I broke a fly rod tip by turning the blank by the tip.. Jesse

Bob,
I have built all of my power wrappers.
The latest one, using the DC gear motor works the best.
I have a picture of the power head - on the equipment page. I use a 24 volt - 300 rpm DC gear motor. Then, I use a 1:1 pulley system to connect to a Taig Lathe head stock. Then, the headstock has a Penn Industries chuck mounted to chuck the rod butt.
I built a 24 volt power supply. The adjusting resistor for changing the voltage has been incorporated into the foot pedal. Then, I added a double pole double throw switch in the power supply box, to reverse the direction of the motor. The ability to reverse the wrapper direction is the HUGE advantage of going to DC. None of the readily available sewing machine or small AC electric motors have the ability to reverse direction.

If you want more details or pictures; drop me an e-mail at hflier@comcast.net

Take care
Roger

Bob... a simple wrap of masking tape should give you enough grip to turn it by hand (unless the rod is too small of a diameter)

Hey Bob, where did you get that DC gear motor, that is exactly what I have been looking for and can not find?