I just thought I would share a recent tool I picked up that seems to be working well.

When I started I was told to mix my finish and the pour onto a piece of foil and then breath on it to help remove bubbles. I was doing this and it was working fine, but the foil get wrinkles etc...

I was at the tool store adn they have these handy little stainless steel bowls with a magnet on teh bottom for holding nuts and bolts. The manet makes it heavy enought to not tip easily, and it will also stick to your tool box.... I am sure you all know the bowls I am describing......

Well, I picked a small one up and used it the last couple of times for thread finish.....Works great..... I put a small metal tool on one side, so it is tilted and the finish stays towards on side. After I am done applying finish, I pour out any extra on a piece of paper, so I can chech it for dry time etc... and clean out the metal bowl with a little alcohol.....

Just thought I would share..... Maybe it will help someone. I have sure appreciated the advice I received on this board.

Great idea! I think I'll go and pick one of those up.

Lately, I've been using waxed paper instead of foil and it works very well (no wrinkles).


Walt

John; To eliminate wrinkles in the foil I place the foil , shiny side up, in a small saucer with a smooth rounded bottom. Smooth it out with a wadded up paper towel, I think the theory behind using foil is to extend the working time a little and spreading out the finish will assist the little bubbles in coming to the surface. I then take a soda straw and gently blow the bubbles away. I would be hesitant about pouring the finish out on anything but foil due to the possibility of contamination. The reason for placing the foil shiny side up is also to eliminate the possibility of contamination. During the foil manufacturing process the dull side of the foil is the side that is in contact with the rollers,thus the possibility of contamination.

Jay Hunt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John; To eliminate wrinkles in the foil I place
> the foil , shiny side up, in a small saucer with a
> smooth rounded bottom. Smooth it out with a wadded
> up paper towel, I think the theory behind using
> foil is to extend the working time a little and
> spreading out the finish will assist the little
> bubbles in coming to the surface. I then take a
> soda straw and gently blow the bubbles away. I
> would be hesitant about pouring the finish out on
> anything but foil due to the possibility of
> contamination. The reason for placing the foil
> shiny side up is also to eliminate the possibility
> of contamination. During the foil manufacturing
> process the dull side of the foil is the side that
> is in contact with the rollers,thus the
> possibility of contamination.

Yep, I understand the contamination concerns, I clean it real well with DA or ISA, and let it dry completely, I have finished two rods so far without a problem. I have put the foil over a small saucer or a mason jar lid as well in the past. The stainless little bowl will do the same as foil for extending the pot life and letting it spread out for bubble removal. The little bowl I am talking about is about 3" in diameter. With the magnetic bottom, I simply stick a nut or anything metal on one side of the bottom and it keeps the bowl titled for me. Working good so far.

am i correct in saying the reason the foil extends the potlife is that it disperses heat better that a plastic mixing cup? if so couldnt you get a small copper bowl(i think copper disperses heat better than aluminum) and would extend the potlife a little longer?

Three inches in dia is plenty wide enough ( I visualized them as being a lot smaller) ,that will work fine. I have never seen these little bowls I will have to check them out.

A fresh white ceramic bathroom tile works fine too.

Jon; Some builders work directly from the mixing cup. I would think copper would work fine. Bill uses a fresh white bathroom tile. Most importantly, don't pour it on something unclean or something that might contain oils, waxes, silicone etc. I use foil because it is clean and I have got a clean one every time. Aluminum foil is cheap and easy to dispose of.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2007 09:50PM by Jay Hunt.

most of the time i use it from the mixing cup also...i just recently started pouring it on foil but im really not sure why haha

I use a small steel tray lined with foil. I'd rather wad up the foil and trash it than spend the time cleaning the tray. The wrinkles in the foil don't bother me.

We're like Mick. We keep a small box of foil sheets handy just for this, trash them when done. No cleanup needed.

We use the mixing cups and may clean them once, but generally we diuscard them after two uses at most. We just got the little mixing machine and it uses generic condiment cups which are even cheaper, but we rigged a little foam collar to enable using the "standard" Flex Coat cups. Mixes very nicely, reduces bubbles, and I can still do something else while it does the work.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I use aluminum mini tart pans - they are 3-7/8" wide and 7/8" deep. I purchase 125 for $6. At less than a nickel each, it is cheaper to throw them away than to use DA to clean them. They have a nice lip on the edge for wiping a spatula or brush as well. The diameter is just right for 6cc of mixed finish, just large enough diameter to still have it all spread to a completely thin layer.

Hi Bill,
I switched to a glossy ceramic tile about a year ago and it works reaaly well and the epoxy peels off of the tile easily and just a quick wipe with denatured alcohol and you're ready to go again.

Mike Blomme

I like the glossy tile idea..... I will get one and try that as well.....

Thanks!

Simialr for me,,,, old glazed ashtray. Tho I'm finding myself go straight out of the mixing cup more and more now as I get faster in application

I use the 3 inch PVC test caps that you can buy at a Lowe’s or plumbing supply used for pressure testing plumbing drainage systems.

Cost me .61 cents never clean them out. I just poor the next batch over top of last, when caps full. I throw it away and start another.

Just the rags and time I save in cleaning more then pays for the caps

One cap is good for 15 to 20 rods

I take a soda or beer can, turn it upside down, clean the bottom with solvent and mix my epoxy in it. It works great, keeps the epoxy in the middle of the can because of the beveled surface, and when finished, just throw it away. But where to get the empty beer cans.........................

I like it... a reason to procure empty beer cans :-) Full is probably a better heat sink, but empty sounds a whole lot more beneficial to the endevour. Should probably mix in small batches to ensure the epoxy is fresher too

I tape the foil to a small pizza box. It lasts for 4-5 rods if you pour out the epoxy in strategic spots around the flat surface. Stretched and taped to the box the foil doesn't wrinkle. When done, undo the tape, throw the foil away and tape on a new one.

Joe Douglas

I use small foil weighing dishes available at any lab supply site, they are pretty cheap, and sturdier than regular foil. I do like the empty beer can idea though.