Hi, I'm new to the RodBuilders.org group and I've already found it useful, especiall regarding "Spiral Wrap" rods because I've a custumer who wants one. Anyway, my question? I've always used epoxy but found that it was harder that cork and sometimes in sanding the cork would sand away leaving slightly the hard edge of the glued area. I read that some one suggested using "Weldwood Plastic Resin" glue. Would this glue cause the same poblem? Is there a glue what works better than the above mentioned glues?
REggie Finch

Epoxy adhesive works just fine. The key is to get as thin a glue line as possible. Put the glue on the rings, then wipe off as much as possible to leave the thinnest layer. Then clamp the rings together and wipe off any excess that squeezes out. Rodbond, Titebond III, Devcon 2 ton all work.

Ted nailed it pretty good!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

When working with epoxy glue especially the thickened thixotropic stuff like Rod Bond, it is important to get a nice fine glue line but DO NOT over tighten your clamps. Epoxy works best when there is a gap and not a completely tight joint like you would need if you were doing a picture frame. When using Tight Bond or Elmers waterproof glue you can use a bit more pressure but remember not to squeeze all the glue out no matter what you're using.

There is one very important tip when sanding cork that has been glued up.
The glue can be, and is generally harder than the cork. If you free hand sandpaper, you will almost always divit and sand out unwanted cork.
The secret is to do two things:
1. when sanding the glue line - use very coarse sandpaper. I like to use 30 grit paper to cut the clue line.
2. Use the right touch on the lathe when sanding, Not too hard, and not too soft.
3. Finally, use a board behind the sandpaper to keep the sandpaper level on the handle. By using a board to keep the paper level, you don't dig into one spot or another on the handle.

Finally, after sanding the cork to cut the glue line - I keep looking at the spinning handle for any shine. If I see shine, I know that there is still glue on the cork. After sanding the bulk of the glue off the surface of the cork, I will stop the lathe to look for isolated spots of glue. If I find any, I will simply spot those spots with heavy grit paper to remove the glue from the surface.

Then, I start the lathe again, and quickly proceed to finer grit paper for shaping and finally very fine grit paper for the final finish.

The two key things.
Coarse grit like 30 or 50 grit paper to cut the glue line.
Backing board on the paper while sanding to keep from digging into unwanted spots.
Finally spot sanding particularly tough spots to eliminate the glue from the surface before proceeding to finer grit paper.

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Remember, if you try to cut the glue line, or remove the glue from the surface of the cork with too fine grit paper initially - you will simply end up with very shiny glue. i.e. you will simply polish the glue - rather than remove it.

Take care
Roger