I'm going to build a topwater rod, fishing gunfish 85 and small buzzbaits mainly with it.

Looking at using a St Croix 3C68MXT (6'8" Med Action XFast Tip 8-14 LB test 3/16 - 5/8 oz lure). Going split grip and exposed bank seat.

I'm planning on using a Pflueger President baitcaster and 10# mono.

Guide suggestions and sizes? I am mainly looking for lightweight (usually fish topwater all day) and casting distance.

I made the same rod but with the 4C blank instead. For me I have mostly been using the Fuji Alconites for my bass rods. I do a spiral wrap and use double foot guides for that and then single foot fly guides from there. What I used was a df 10, 8, 8, 8 then sf 6 out to the tip. It has been one of the best blanks I have ever used for a rod. It not onoly works for topwater but is an excellent rod for pitching small worms and jigs.

On all of my rods I use a simple spiral with a 12 double foot stripper, and then a 6 single foot the rest of the way. You could use a larger bumper guide if you wanted, but keep it a single foot, it is important to keep the bumper as low and close to the blank as possible.

Mike, what was the axis order for your guides? (0, bumper, 180, etc?)

I like the idea of starting with a 10. How many guides total? I'm assuming 2-3 double foot then the rest single?

I figured I would go with the 3C as I really don't need as much sensitivity for topwater and save a couple $ with only gaining .2 ounces in the 4C. For a new worm rod though, I'm going to look at the 4C.

How do the St Croix's equate to xx million modulus? Just wonder for personal comparison of other rods I have that list it.

I still like doing the 0, 60, 120, 180 spiral myself and I always do it towards the side the handle is on the reel. I use double foot guides for the transition only because they hold up better in the boat when the rod is put down on the deck. As far as the modulus of the blanks, I not sure St Croix has anything published for numbers on each blank.

Myself I prefer single foots or all but the stripper, I always use the Forhan locking wrap. I use the simple spiral 0º-bumper-180º, and one of the principles of the simple spiral, as I understand it, is to keep the line as close to the blank as possible. I would probably use 7 or 8 guides plus the bumper.

I wouldn’t worry about the 3 series blanks not being sensitive enough, I have that exact blank built as spinning that I use for “shaky heads”. It is extremely sensitive, with a 1/8 oz jig head and finesse worm you can feel every rock, and every time a brim tugs on the tail of the worm.

I'm no bass guy - and sorry to hijack the thread, but do bass fishermen usually like an extra-fast action rod for fishing topwater? I'm just curious, because my intuition tells me that a more moderate action might be preferable as in crankbait fishing. Can you guys clarify for me? Thanks!!!

Rich

Difference there in action and tip. The rod I'm looking at is a medium action but has a Xfast tip.

I've always preferred a faster tip for topwater due to throwing lighter baits. I'm fishing clear water so my baits are downsized, line is downsized, but I'm needing to make long casts because the fish spook easily in shallow water. I find the faster tip affords me the ability to cast further on these lures. I also work the baits incredibly fast so the way the blank loads helps me there as well (or in my opinion). I'd suspect there are folks out there using slower tips for topwater, but it's not for me.

For a larger, "slower" lure like a crankbait or a big jig, I do like something like a medium tip with a med-hvy action. Typically the lure is heavier, even if physically the same size.

A gunfish 85 on a fast tip 6'6"+ rod (med action) casts like a rocket!

Sorry, I mixed my terminology :-) I meant extra fast vs. medium action. Basically, you are building medium power, extra fast action rods for throwing lighter topwaters. Now that makes sense to me :-) Also makes sense that same rod would make a good jigworm type of rod due to the x-fast tip. Now that I think about it, I can see the benefit of a fast action in terms of being able to pop a popper better, or walk a spook type bait better. Thanks!

I built myself a Rainshadow IC722 to take with me on my regular job travels, figured the 6' length was about the longest I could safely carry. Intended it to be a jack of all trade rod, which it is.
But, I use it for all of my topwater fishing now, even when I am in the boat and can handle a longer rod. It is the best rod I have ever used for "walking the dog" with a Spook or Sammy, and, with 10# line and a good casting reel, can easily cast my all time favorite topwater (Baby or Tiny Torpedo).
I built it as a simple spiral, with just a bumper guide. Used a 12 stripper guide, but a 10 would have been fine.
This rod performs so well that I have sold about a dozen of them, to guys I fish with.
Steve Broadwell

For guides there is no reason you can't go with a #10 or #8 stripper and it can be single or double foot then single foots the rest of the way.

I understand about you liking the xf for casting and lure action but I would worry about loosing fish because of the xf tip. I went the total oppisite direction with my latest topwater rod, it has a super super slow action which is incredible for poppers haven't throw a spook type bait on it yet but I don't see why it wouldn't work. I haven't noticed any problems with casting because the rod loads up well. I'm sure your rod works well for you but I don't want an XF tip near my treble hooks lol.

Have fun.
Stan

I think the 3C68MXF is the perfect rod for your application. If you get spooked about the XF tip, then the 3C66MHM (or 3C70MHM) works quite well also. However, my vote would be the 3C68MXF.

Use some sort of spiral wrap on the rod. The easiest, IMO, is the Simple Spiral. It's what I use on all mine. You won't give up any casting distance, and you'll gain a ton of stability (especially nice for those times that you tie a spinnerbait or crankbait on the rod...or hang a HAWG). The spiral wrap has really saved my wrists.

The butt guide is a personal preference issue. Some guys are convinced that it HAS to be a 12; otherwise, the rod won't cast as far. In my test-casting, I've never noticed a difference between a 12 and a 10. In fact, I've known of several rod builders who go down to 8s or 6s for the butt guide. They claim there's no difference at all. I use a single foot 10 for all my butt guides. For the old curados I use, and the ML, M, and MH blanks I use, the 10 seems to work out well. With a Forhan locking wrap, you're never gonna' pull a single foot guide out of its wraps. The only thing you have to worry about is abuse on the deck of a boat.

For most of my rods, the guides I use are as follows: LSG10, LSG8 (bumper), LSG7 (1st 180), then LSG6s to the tip. Depending on the guide spacing, I'll often drop my bumper size down to a 6, simply because my spacing has gotten the 0 and 180 close enough that a 6 works as well or better than a 7 or 8.

I agree with being able to use a 10 single foot for the stripper guide, I will probably build my next rod that way. I bought some LSG 3.5’s from Mudhole and would like to try them, they make a BLAG 6 look huge. The main problem I see with the tiny guides is finding a tip to use with them. I guess I could use another guide for the tip, use a locking wrap and Permagloss and it should be pretty reliable.

I agree with being able to use a 10 single foot for the stripper guide, I will probably build my next rod that way. I bought some LSG 3.5’s from Mudhole and would like to try them, they make a BLAG 6 look huge. The main problem I see with the tiny guides is finding a tip to use with them. I guess I could use another guide for the tip, use a locking wrap and Permagloss and it should be pretty reliable.

I'm with the others here an X-fast tip doesn't stop me from using treble hooks, especially when the blank doesn't have mag bass backbone like this blank does not. Salmon/steelhead anglers have been using X-fast tipped rods for plugs for many many years, in fact it is a design criteria for hot shot blanks.

i was thinking of building a rod similar and wondered how big a difference is between the 3c68mxf,4c68mxf,and5c68mxf

A lot of money!

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I'd be interested to hear the answer from those with experience too.

John,
Like many other of our sponsors, they spend a lot of time trying to keep similar actions between the series. There are however small differences and a difference in blank weight. The 5C I tried was a little faster and considerably lighter and livelier than the 3C, you could tell the difference with your eyes closed.

I use the Avid series (SCIII) for all my personal bass fishing rods. There's a really good performance-to-price ratio in that series, they're tough, and there's a lot of specialty blanks in the Avid line. I'm quite fond of the Moderate action crankbait series, and the XF action blanks. Some of these blanks can be found in the SCIV and SCV line; some cannot. I'm very, very pleased with my entire set of SCIII bass rods.

I did build one of the SCV blanks as a gift one time. And, I did get to fish it later on, when I was with the owner. I quickly put it down, though, as I realized that if I continued to fish it, I'd have to get a second mortgage on my house, JUST so I could build myself a whole fleet of them. They are amazing--gorgeous brown, freakishly light in hand, and powerful. If you have the $$$, go ahead and step up to the SCV. Just be warned, though, you may decide you need a whole set of them.