Does any one have pics of turning tools and which do you use most?
Just got my Jet mini and am not totally sure of which tool is what, I can see round, but not sure what is skew, parting and the the rest. I love toys so give me all you got and I'll figure it out from there.

You need to pick up a copy of Andy Dear's DVD.

#1 would be Andy's video!!! Here is a one stop headquarters for anything to do with turning [woodturnerscatalog.com] Get their catalog ASAP. It shows and describes every type of tool with details/uses. Personally, I would choose a gouge, skew, parting tool and maybe a round nose scraper. You will probably need a 4 jaw chuck and a drill chuck, mandrels and the means to sharpen your tools (very important!) Did you get the extension bed? I would recommend it to be able to drill out your turning stock.

If their is a Woodcraft in your area, you might want to consider a class.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Hey Mike how you doing, yes ordered or got all the extras, extra bed, 3 jaw chuck, 4jaw chuck all ready had the turning tools but still not sure which is which, thanks for the links BIG help

Hey Mike I just got the Mini Tool Set from them by Henry Talor. Style number is 088 2190. Just put that # in the search section and it should come up.

Tim, I find that I use the 1/4" shew chisel the most but it is a great set for the price and I really like all of them.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2007 09:30PM by Alan Royce.

I typically use:

Roughing gouge (not a fingernail or bowl gouge)

Round nose scraper

3/8 inch Bedan tool

3/16 inch diamond parting tool (the diamond shape reduces heat when parting off)

I have no doubt the skew can be a useful tool, but like many amateur turners I'm not good enough with it to do much more than ruin the previous work.

.................

When I first got my Jet Mini, I bought a pre-packaged set of tools from Penn State Industries. It has some usefull tools in it, and some I don't use too much. Here's what I would recommend for a starter set, turning cork and wood:

3/4 Skew - yes, they do take some practice, but buy some 2x2 pine stock from your local lumber yard and practice practice practice. I would also highly recommend begging/borrowing/buying a copy of Alan Lacer's video "The Skew Chisel". You can get a finish so clean off of a skew you barely need to sand. It's worth it to learn it.

3/8 spindle gouge

3/16 diamond parting tool

3/4 roughing gouge

Also, a scraper can be very usefull for roughing down cork and making it concentric with the mandrel. However, don't use it on spindle turning wood, there are much better tools (such as the gouge and skew) for that work.

If you are looking to buy tools - I'd steer clear from mini or midi sized tools. Full sized tools are much easier to control, and they fit the various sharpening systems, whereas most mini or midi tools don't.

And to echo Mike - you NEED a good sharpening system. It's as important as the lathe - they go together, and neither is of much use without the other.

I use the spindle gouge the most and I think the one I use is a 1/2". After that would be a 1/8" parting tool, 3/4" round nosed scraper. I use a 1" skew quite a bit when it comes to taking out high and low spots and also for rounding over corners. I have found that an oval skew chisel will help with some of the skews inherent problems. The bar stock used on the oval skew is just that, oval. With an oval skew on the tool rest you have a better chance of keeping the edge parallel to the stock. With the edge parallel with the stock it has less chance to catch and cause gouges and tear outs. I'm sure you can find a bunch of manufactures out there but this is the one I use. [woodcraft.com]

Here are some pictures of the various chisels in this order: Scraper, skew, gouge, beading, parting.
I tend to use a 1/2' skew and a round nose or square nose scraper the most.



[www.leevalley.com]

[www.leevalley.com]

[www.leevalley.com]

[www.leevalley.com]

[www.leevalley.com]

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

When I was about to purchase turning tools I put this very question to Andy Dear. He suggested that all I would really need are two tools..
a 3/8' Fingernail Gouge and a 3/16" or 1/8" Parting Tool ( the standard shape; not the Diamond). He also mentioned his preference for Sorby HSS Turning Tools wheras Tom Kirkman mentioned he likes Crown Tools as well. The benefit of high grade turning tools cannot be overstated. Not only will HSS Steel hold an edge longer well built tools will provide many years of trouble free consistent service if properly maintained.

These are full size tools, not the Sorby Midi size or those made for pen making, sometimes called micro. The full size tools will provide much more stability as you can really get a good grip and hold the handle tight against your side. The cost of full size Sorby tools is even with their Midi size brothers at least on the Woodcraft site.

I found substantially lower prices from a company named: The Best Things

thebestthings.com

They were over $18.00 less expensive than Woodcraft for a purchase of a 1/4" Sorby Parting Tool and 3/8" Fingernail Gouge even with their S+H charge compared to the other company's offer of free shipping. I am not, nor have I ever been, associated in any way with either company other than as a retail customer. Just trying to share some helpful tips.

I emailed the Robert Sorby Company from their official web site requesting a catalog. I received a beautifully printed full color catalog showing every tool in their product line with many illustrated instructions for use and sharpening. The real kicker was the 2 DVD set showing the use and sharpening of the tools. This is an extraordinary resource. There is a price listed on the front of the brochure of $3.00 (US) which they did not mention or charge. Even if you have to pay that price it's easily worth twenty times more. The video is truly first rate. The only thing "wrong" with it is that it has managed to get misplaced as many other fine items in my ever expanding mass of rod building parephenalia have a consistant habit of doing. What's wrong with these things and why don't they stay where they belong?!?!?!@?$%!!! (I hold Tom Kirkman personally responsible for this mess!!!)

Andy Dear's DVD is far more comprehensive in the actual use of the lathe and turning tools for the specific purposes of the rod builder. This too is a resource which I would not want to be without.

Lastly, there are some very talented wood turners among the community of rod builders visiting this wonderful web site. The few I have had the pleasure of speaking with have been gracious and most generous in sharing their expertise and their time. In addition I have purchased some very well made grips and reel seats from them before I started turning. They were precisely as represented and priced very well. In one incident I managed to break a grip in the course of expanding the hole.. and when I casually reported this to the maker he said he would send me a new one.. gratis. This kind of comraderie among strangers is both rare and precious. ( I give Tom Kirkman most of the credit for his herculean efforts in creating Rodbuilding.org and also his diligence in maintaining the high standards of conduct which attracts the caliber of participation which stands heads above any other web forum I know. If there are others this good I have not stumbled on them as yet.

Thanks for your patience in reading all this. I hope there was something helpful within for at least those looking for turning tools.

Dave Gilberg

Correction:

The proper link to The Best Things web site is:

www.thebestthings.com

Dave

Dave, You will find with the use of a Forstner bit your breakage will go down dramatically. I used to have a hard time getting a hole started in the center of a grip (with a forstner bit) after you pulled the mandrel out. I found that a Unibit can be used to enlarge the hole to the point that you can start a forstner bit with out wobbling. The Unibit is self centering and makes the job much easier. [www.irwin.com] I used to drill wood and cork with a conventional bit but found that it would almost always crack the trim pieces when I would start to drill. I haven't broken a grip since I started using the forstner bits.

Mark,
I was not starting a new hole.. but attempting to expand an existing hole. I was running the lathe too fast and digging too aggressively.
Thanks for the tip on Forstner Bits. I have a set of Milwaukee bits based on the same idea, but all too large for this particular operation.

By the way, you are one of the turners I was referring to who has been so helpful to me. As I get develop my skills you can expect to be getting more requests for advice. I hope to make a checkerboard jig like you showed in the Photos section. Your work is worth emulation.

Best regards,
Dave