I have a grip thats around 10 inch, triangle shaped and not tapered. I'd like to taper it , what's the best way? You can't turn it to take the material down or you'd loose the triangle shape, so I'm assuming sanding lengthwise? Any tips you guys do with yours?

Do you have the RodMaker article on hand shaping pistol grips? You'd do this the same way.

Mount the grip on a mandrel or wood dowel and lock it in your vise. Using a Stanley surform or very coarse sandpaper begin working the flats in one direction and apply great pressure toward the tip end. This will take a bit of time but will get the job done. You'll have to switch to finer and finer grades of paper to get the smoothness back but it can be done. Or...

Do you have access to a belt sander? A stationairy or even vise held hand model can make quick work of this type job. Just hand feed the grip at the angle/taper you desire and you'll be done in a minute or so.

.........

If you don't have a belt sander, put an electric hand sander in a vise with the sanding surface facing up and just hold the grip against it to get the taper that you want. I make triangle grips like that using regular round grips. Just flatten 3 sides to whatever angle you want.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2007 02:22AM by Mike Barkley.

Actually, I'd probably be prone to turning the taper on the lathe first. Get the taper you want perfectly centered that way, and easily. You might find you actually like the triangle to round transtition too.. Now if you don't like the triangle into round transition, you can work the triangle flats using the original ones on the untapered end as a guide. Mark the end of the tapered end with a centered circle, which you will treat as your stop mark when working down the three ramps. That will help you keep them balanced.

If you've some more major machinery at hand, you could rough out the ramps and have them all equal on a band saw or table saw, improvising a taper jig.

Anyway. that's how I'd attack it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2007 10:42AM by Dave Hauser.

I dislike (but stii do it) working with triangular grips for this reason, that they are difficult to taper and retain the original shape. I have used the procedure Tom recommends - using a belt sander clamped in a vise. I place the grip on a piece of wooden pool cue being used as a mandrel or sorts and bring the grip to the belt sander. I feel I have more control controlling a lite grip vs a heavy belt sander. Even then if I am installing triangular grips I always make sure I have two on hand cause sure as heck I am going to mess one up! The pool cue, being wood, does not damage the belt on the sander should it make contact. I bought a dozen discarded pool cue sticks from a local supplier for $5. They make great taper tools for a couple rod building uses.

Hmm....triangular to round transition. I like that idea. Need to try that on one of the left over spares I have.

Lou

I really like the pool cue idea. Sould make a good mandrel for turning and reaming stock

Thanks for the tips. It'll be a bit before I get home to try it, but will be sure to share the outcome.

Phil

I built up triangle shaped winding check, with 5 minute epoxy. The epoxy is very easy to shape and to make the transition from round to triangle. I wrapped the epoxy check with black thread and applied my finish epoyy over it. It came out fantastic!!!
Ed



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2007 09:06PM by Ed Grella.