I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Pages: Previous12
Current Page: 2 of 2
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Rich Handrick (---.gdrpwi.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: July 13, 2007 09:06PM

If anyone wants a link where you can buy good quantities of CA glue in thin, medium, or thick viscosity, email me and I'll send it to you. The prices are very good - I think a 2oz bottle is like 4-5 bucks with shipping included. If you buy the little bitty tubes at the store, they are about .1-.2 oz apiece only! I bought some to use for pen finishes - there is a slight learning curve, but it's TOUGH stuff. I've used it on one reelseat so far and it shines like glass. I've also used it on several pens, and I really like the finish it gives. Other than that, I would go with spar varnish if you are looking for a maintenance free wood finish. What most penturners do is to use a coat of thin as a sanding sealer, then follow with 2-4 coats of medium or thick CA. Apply with a folded paper towel and don't glue yourself to your lathe, handle, etc.... :-) Use of BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is optional - some pen guys like it for a mild CA accelerant, others don't use it. Doesn't seem to matter in the final product, just personal preference. Bear in mind I'm speaking from pretty limited experience, but what I've seen of CA so far and what I've learned on a couple penturning sites, it is great stuff.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Mike Barkley (---.try.wideopenwest.com)
Date: July 13, 2007 09:58PM

CA Video Tutorials [www.penturners.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Paul Kneller (---.nsw.bigpond.net.au)
Date: July 14, 2007 08:54AM

I buy my CA in pellet form and disolve it in Acetone. You can buy it this way from companies that supply museums, they use it for preserving old bones and bits of significant pieces of wood. I put my wooden reel seats in a vat and vacuum them down to 29"s for two or three days. The negative pressure pulls all the air and oils from the wood and infuses it with CA. You can get simiular results by placing your wooden piece in a Vac jar with the CA and slowly heating the solution in boiling water, as the CA cools it creates a vacumm, I know many people do this with knife scales but the thought of heating Acetone is a little on the scary side. I have cut one my reels seats in half and sanded and polished the center to a sheen, the CA goes all the way through. I have posted a pic of one my reels seats in the photo section. Cheers Paul.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Bob Balcombe (---.ka.centurytel.net)
Date: July 14, 2007 04:15PM

Thank you all for some great info. An other question how would CA hold up if I put it on a wooden walking stick or wooden cane.
Good Wraps Bob

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Scott Fisher (---.qld.bigpond.net.au)
Date: July 15, 2007 05:21PM

Well I'll be super glue.
I've used it on my wooden model ships to fill voids and gluing together before finishing but I would never had thought as a finish.
The things I learn.
Has anybody got any links to buying the pelletised form of CA??
Thanks fellas :)
Scott



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2007 05:23PM by Scott Fisher.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Wood working question
Posted by: Joe Brenner (---.cpe.cabletv.on.ca)
Date: July 16, 2007 03:07PM

CA ...stands for cyannoacrylate..not sure if that is the exact spelling.

Finishes well on pens pool cues,reelseats etc..

But beware...the fumes have really bad side effects....wear a mask...or in the very least be very well ventilated!

Options: ReplyQuote
Pages: Previous12
Current Page: 2 of 2


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster