I have decided to start building my own rods (spinning at least) in part because it is basically impossible to find a rod with a tennessee handle that is over 6', it is my favorite handle and I have gone to 80% light tackle fishing, and there aren't a lot of good, long, light tackle spinning rods on the market that don't cost an arm and both legs (graduate student). Also, because I think it will be fun. My first rod will be a Rainshadow IP840 blank with a tennessee handle (possibly split?, possibly cork with rings or graphite without rings) fuji hardloy guides, and a fly-style top guide.

Basically, I have 2 questions

1. Do most of you prefer the cork over the graphite/hex handles for tennessee? Why or why not. (I have never used the graphite style handles)
2. How hard is it to balance a rod with a split tennessee handle?

This rod will be used to throw 1/8oz cranks, roadrunners, small grubs and slider worms, and ultralight topwater plugs.

Also, is the primary reason for the split grips (haven't had one of those before either) weight savings? Or is it mostly for looks? With a tennessee handle I would think the weight savings would be minimal, but it does look cool. Does it effect 2 handed casting performance?

Thanks

Nathan Parker (new user, new rodbuilder)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2007 06:54PM by Nathan Parker.

Nathan,
Another blank you might want to look at is the LSJ841 XMG50 (6 to 10 lb) Lamiglas blank for that application. Anglers Workshop has some for close to the same price as the Rainshadow. A high mudulus, nice light blank. Lamiglas also used to sell tennessee handle rods, but they were always a regional favorite that didn't seem to get to far from the southern states according to them. I've owned a few IM700 rods with them, and liked them very much. I like the Fuji LLTstyle tip better than others which don't have the small bracing and are easier to damage. I don't think handling or performance would be effected much using either design you mentioned.

I found the rainshadow blank for 31.95 here: []
The blank you mentioned is closer to the Light version of this rainshadow blank, also available for ~$35
I have heard good things about these rainshadow blanks and they are very inexpensive for my first build.

Any thoughts on the split vs. non-split seats and balancing the rod?

Nathen. Get the back issue from Rodmaker on tenn handles. I have a regular customer that gets one a year and when he wants one I always reread that article before building. So far he has come back every year and always calls or writes to say how delighted he is with his rod. Also he has given me two other customers just because of those rods. To be honest also its the easiest rod to build. Just always keep in mind LIGHT LIGHT. As far as balence goes the rod balences its self. With the reel going where you put it. If I were you for a first rod i would stick with a full cork no split. KISS keep it simple for the first rod or 10. Learn the basics first before you get cute. So many builders try to get real fancy right off the bat and never learn to make a good "TOOL" first.

would something like this: [www.rodbuilding.org]
be so difficult to do? I like (always have) traditional full cork tennessee handles with graphite rings (so simple), and so I will likely either do that or try one of the graphite handles, looking for opinions there, btw, but just like the custom look of the split handle. How long a handle do you recommend for a 7' UL rod, mostly used for long distance casting? Thanks, just doing my research before I start this. I want to make 4-5 rods for myself this winter, and all but 1 will be tennessee spinning style.

I just built the IP840 with a 10" TN Sensor handle (graphite tubing) and slip rings from Custom Tackle. Guides are Fuji Alconite BYAG20, BYAG12, then 6 x BLAG6, then BFAT6 tip top. I fished it a lot last week with a Quantum size 10 reel. I love everything about it. I was using a lot of the same lures you are planning to use and could cast very far. Fished it for two whole days and the slip rings never budged and I didn't have tape over them. I wouldn't change anything about my IP840 - it felt great and performed great.

Nathan;
My personal choice would be to go with the graphite handle, been using them since the 80’s with great success.
I would also suggest, once you have your guides to the intersection point on the blank go to all fly guides help lighten up the rod and move the balance of the rod back towards the handle

There is an article in the library on guide placement that will help you also.

If you can afford it? Tom Kirkman has a book on rod building that is excellent. That if you buy, will take a lot of time out of the learning curve. Wish I had read it twenty years ago.
What you will save by learning from him will save you much more than the cost of the book

I think the 10" handle would feel a little short to me. I was going to go with either a 12-13in. cork or a 8in. graphite with a split handle and a small cork piece on the butt (12-13" total length). I could also just use a stock 12" graphite or texalium tube. I think cork looks very classy but wonder if I would like the sensitivity of the graphite better. Also it's my first rod so I'm not sure which would be easier/most satisfying. I"m going to use a 1000 size shimano slade reel I have and 4lb. test. I may cut off 2" on the butt end- in your experience with this blank, what would be the effect of doing so?

Depending on what I am accompishing I use 10-12" handles most of the time on 6'6" to 7' rods. By using the Tenn handle You have unlimited options on reel placement, and can ballance the rod to your tastes

2 more ?s for you Steve. 1 is about guides, most guys on here recommend never using a kit of guides, but since I'm a first time builder, I either need to us a kit or get some help on guide sizing. I would like to use a fly tip and possibly some fly guides toward the tip as well (I like the look and they are very light) any advice about this? Second, is it possible/advisable to make a tennessee handle out of eva and are there any pre made tenn. eva handles on the market, or would I have to shape my own? Thanks.

Nathan Parker

Nathan, if you trim the butt 2" you will slightly decrease the power and slighlty slow the action. That would be true of most blanks. This blank is nice and fast to begin with so you would still have a nice action on the blank. Your question about the guides is why I gave you my exact guide model numbers and sizes and numbers. I don't mean to boast, because I have learned how to do this from other builders, but I don't think you are going to improve on my guide set up, especially since you'll be using basically the same size reel as I'm using. Yes, you can find pre-made EVA TN handles but I like the firmness of cork or graphite better. It's personal preference, like the length of the handle. I have a 10" handle since this is a low-power blank and I want to use as much of the blank as possible for fish fighting and lure working, not holding the rod. I don't need much leverage when using 4-6lb. line anyway. After all, how much pressure can you put on light line without it breaking.

Hope this helps. Enjoy your project and enjoy your new rod.

Nathan. Consider Billy's suggestion - get the back issue - it will answer a lot of your questions. For what you have in mind - I would suggest a split grip (SSG-TN) , 12 1/2 or 13 inch, cork with poker chips as per the article.

Nathan;
Riches advice is sound if you are going to use cork, I would go that direction. I would stay away from the EVA unless you are building a rod that is going to take a lot of abuse. Like being put in rod holders or on a salt water boat. If you are committed to the Fuji's and can afford it. I would go with titanium’s for lightness and the fly in ti. can also be gotten in size 5mm (TLSG5J) to further cut done on the weight. From Custom Tackle. If not going with titanium then you could go with the Batson guides and maybe even their Match guides that can be had down to 4mm. If you go with a kit, I would order at least one or two extra of the fly guides in case you find you need them. Not that much more money and you will have them for future use if you don't need them

What back issue has the Tenn handles?
JIm

Volume 10 #1
complete guide to building ultra-light rods; a better tennessee handle; rod senstivity facts; eva installation; beginner's corner; tennessee handle grip template; full color photo gallery; q&a column; rod building news; new

Nathan, another view here.

1. I use Cork Tennessee. They are lighter than graphite - by a fair margin. I basically ream it out EXACTLY as the blank diameter dictate - just a bit smaller so that friction holds it in. No need for any fillers etc. Just pure cork. I don't even need to use any glue if i don't want to. (gasp)

2. I just completed one using some high end Fuji TLSG size 5.0 (titanium SIC) on a 2 weight 6' 6". These guides are half the weight of Alconites size 6. Anyways, Even with the TLSG, just taking the weight of one guide off (0.08 grams) makes a noticeable diffference on a 2 wt. Significant in the recovery. Your blank is a bit heavier but still ultralight category. If you used a Alconite tip for durability and then use the Recoil RSFX, you'll notice a signifcant different in recovery. I think the RSFX are relatively affordable relative to the Recoil RSPGs and Fuji SICs. I'm a fan of fast crisp recovery even in very light power rods. Of course, some users such as Kencor rods love the long slow recovery whippy rods.

The LSJ 841 is a great blank but significantly more power than the one you listed.

Mo

Thanks Steve