I am new to turning reel inserts. Andy's DVD covers finishing stablized wood. What finish is recommended if the insert is not made out of stabilized wood? Since I usually build fly rods, and wade fish, the reel insert needs to be able to get wet. Thanks Michael

probably the easiest and most popular is tru oil. any outdoor urethane can be used as well. i am sure others are being used as well

I'd go with Spar Urithane. But, you'll get lots more suggestions that may be better.

Bill in WV

U-40 PermaGloss is a very tough and water clear finish. It was designed by Trondak for these applications.
Joe

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

Here's a link to a discussion on using CA (kind of the same thing as super glue) on finishing wood, Mike:

[cuecomponents.com]

Putter
Williston, ND

Putter that was a very informative and a good link. The pool cue guys seem to have the finishes down pat. I have used the CA approch to fill pores and level out wood and it works great, the only problem I have is that the dust irritates my eyes so I try to use it sparingly. I think the CA would be the most waterproof and durable of the bunch, but Tru-Oil is the most user frendly. You really won't go wrong with either finish, the down side to Tru-Oil is that it wears off and will need to be reapplied from time to time. Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2007 01:21PM by mark blabaum.

The penmaking guys are big into CA finishes as well - if you google around for the CA/BLO finish (superglue and boiled linseed oil), they seem to love that method for looks and durability - there are some good tutorials out there on how to do it. I know I'll be playing with that one, as well as Tru-Oil. Another finish that is starting to be used for pens and I think has possibilities for rods is a water based lacquer called Enduro - looks like good stuff, supposed to be very, very durable.

Flex coat epoxy. Or any other thread wrap epoxy.

I use Tru Oil but have been playing with a water based polyurethane (thanks, Ken Preston). called Max Seal. So far I really like it. High Gloss, appears to be tough as nails, non yellowing and can be buffed/polished. The best thing is that there is no odor, very quick drying and can be thinned/cleaned up with water. [polymercompositesinc.com]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Deft brand spray laquer. Very quick drying and easy to use. Spray 5 or 6 thin coats about 15 minutes apart then let cure in a warm area for 3 or 4 days then buff and polish. I use automotive swirl removerer to give it a high gloss finish then a coat or two of wax.

Lance - do you use lacquer on your pens too? (I think I"ve seen you over on the IAP site...)

Rich, yes on all of my wood pens.

Thanks Lance - I'm getting going on woodturning, and besides reelseats and handles, I'll of course be doing pens (doesn't everyone), and bowls, etc.... I like the sound of a lacquer finish over CA. Deft is good stuff.

I'm curious -- why would a finish used on pool cues and pens, which are not exposed to UV or water hardly ever, be a good finish for a reel seat insert? Just because it looks good?

--Rich

Richard,
The fact that it's used on pool cues/pens really has nothing to do with what they are exposed to. The finishes were not made specificall for pool cues/pens. They are wood finishing products that have withstood the test of time.. I agree that any product used on a fishing rod be tested in the elements first. The reason that we look at other crafts is that they require very durable, high quality finishes and many of their methods work well with rods. Just about everyting that we use in rod building was developed for a different use (even the graphite material used in our blanks).

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

One of my other hobbies is woodturning and pens get a lot of wear and finding a finish that will last has been tough. I love using shellac and lacquer as a finish for turnings but CA is about the toughest I've found and it polishes very, very well. I apply a liberal coat of CA in a cloth rag while spinning the object on the lathe (wear gloves) and then when it gets sticky hit it with some accelerator. Do this a couple of times to get a build and then start in with the 1000grit paper and wet sand up to the finest grit mirca paper you have. Buff out and you have a very hard, durable, high gloss finish - definately good enough for a wood fly rod reel seat. Any oil finish (true oil included) just isn't going to wear well and will need to be refurbished once and awhile; not that that's a problem it's just the nature of oil finishes. Myself I like to mix a bit of shellac and a long oil varnish and then rub that in with friction heat (the heat gets the shellac and oil to become one) and then buff with a hard wax - looks great, needs maintenance though which is fine on my turnings but not something I would sell.

I decided to ask Jeff Jewitt, who runs a nice wood finishing forum in addition to his Homestead finishing business:

[www.homesteadfinishing.com]

Thanks to everyone for their insightful responses.