Greetings fellow rod builders -

Have any of you folks used the X-flock heat shrink covering for rod handles? Looks cool and will be nice to cover some hypalon foregrips that have gotten beat along the boat rails.

So I ordered the correct size (it shrinks about 40% in diameter), and they claim it doesn't shrink in length (really?) Does this stuff really not shrink in length? But now I want to know how I will finish the rod after I apply and shrink the X-Flock. The hypolon foregrip is square (not tapered). If I go past the end of the hypalon grip, I don't think it will heat shrink down enough to be tight on the rod blank. Any suggestions on finishing that end? A winding check wouldn't seem to do the trick. Maybe a hosel?

At the same time, the lower end of the hypalon grip is butted up into an aluminum reel seat. Do folks suggest just trying to get it to hit the seam between the hypalon and the reel seat (or maybe continue onto the reel seat a little bit?)

Finally for anyone who has put this on over hypalon, would you suggest a light coat of epoxy on the grip before I slide the X-Flock on?

Thanks all for you suggestions,
JE

Hi John,

REALLY. lol The better X-Flock will shrink less than 2-3% in length. The safest way to plan for that slight lengthwise shrinkage is to just leave the tube a bit long off the front of the grip. Start shrinking it from the rear working forward, then simply trim it up front when you're done. That way you won't come up short.

Chances are, it won't shrink all the way down to the blank unless you have a really small OD grip and a large O.D. blank. You made the right call on the winding check and a Hosel MAY cover it, but it's going to depend on the grip/blank OD's again. If you're repairing a grip (guides still in place), you're going to be hard pressed to get a Hosel past the guides though. You can do an epoxy/finish ramp to cover the front edge if all else fails.

A lot of your questions really depend on if it's a new build or a repair. On a new build, I'll leave the grip about 3/4" from the seat, shrink the tube, then push the grip the rest of the way down. No seam. On a repair, I've seen it done both ways. Both over the seat's front hood by a little bit, or trimmed at the seat/foregrip joint with a razor blade. You'll see the edge of the tubing, but it's not glaring. The cleanest way on a "cover-up" is to bevel the Hypalon's O.D. where it meets the seat to slightly less than the O.D. of the front hood. This will let the hood hide the edge of the tube. This can be done on a Power Wrapper using 80 grit drywall sanding screen. I've done it with a belt sander in my pre-power wrapper days, but you have to be REALLY careful not to hit the hood. If you've got a power wrapper, you may want to knock that "hard" edge off the front of the grip while you're at it. That will make covering up the front of the tube easier. Don't try reducing it's diameter by hand sanding. It's rubber and will sand about as fast as a truck tire would (that'd be NOT fast).

You do want to put some kind of adhesive on the Hypalon to keep the tube from slipping. Don't get me wrong, it's not going to slip to the point of turning, but under the right conditions you could make it move enough to get the "X's" out of line slightly. You don't need a "coat" of epoxy on the Hypalon, just some well placed "dabs". Double sided tape in a loose spiral down the grip will do the trick as well.

A final note of this is your first time with X-Flock... When you shrink the front down, you CAN overheat the tubing making it "grow' a little. It will shrink with heat, then get to a point where it stops shrinking. If you keep the heat on it after that point, it can actually start to melt, making it expand slightly. Just keep an eye on it and when it quits shrinking, get the heat off of it.

Hope this helps. Good luck.


Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Gerat detailed answer, Mark. I knew I asked the question to the right folks (and bought the X-Flock from the right supplier, as you'll recognize my name from your customer list!). I think the epoxy ramp will be the trick in the front of the grip. I like the idea of power sanding a bit of taper at the rear of the grip to bring it down in diameter so the edge of the X-Flock hood gets pulled under the outside edge a smidge. Ditto on softening the front edge of the hypalon grip to make it easier to cover that sharp angle.

I noticed my question was a bit confusing, as I was combining a couple projects in one email. I am going to use X-Flock to cover an older rod with guides in plpace (so no howser or check), but I'm also going to put it on a couple new rods as well, that don't have their guides wrapped yet.

I'm unclear on your one comment on pushing the grip down within 3/4 of an inch then putting on the X-Flock, shrinking it, then sliding it the rest of the way. When I start pushing these hypalon grips down the rod (with my rod bond lubricating the way), I try not to stop till its down to the reel seat. Am I missing something here?

JE

Hey, you DID get that from the right place. lol I'll have Colleen put some of the above mentioned tape in the box for you to try. Just "Barber pole" it down the grip.

As for "seating" the grip, I use either Flex Coat slow cure epoxy or Rod Bond to slide my grips on. You can stop pushing and start again provided you have enough epoxy as lubricant under the Hypalon. If you had to REALLY stretch the Hypalon's I.D. it might be tough to do, but in most cases I'm not making mine stretch enough for stopping to be an issue. I probably wouldn't do it with a 1/2 X 16" grip going on a XXH using Slow Cure, but you probably still could start/stop a big grip like that on Rod Bond.



Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2007 04:56PM by Mark Griffin.

Thanks Mark. I'm good to go.

JE