I'm trying to decide between a couple of approaches. I could start by sanding the cylinder down to the right diameter and then start forming the final shape (half wells, for example). Or I could start by forming the general shape and gradually sand it down to the right diameter. Which way do you do it and why?

I go with the general shape, but oversized so I can modify as necessary to fit myself or others. I have short fingers on a mid-heavy hand, so I also modify the original length to fit my hand as needed. My fly rod grips are cloer to the 6 1/2 inch length range instead of 7 1/2 for instance.

I smooth it down and make it even all the way across then sand it down to shape...seems like it makes it easier to make it hae a smooth taper and not have any uneven places. But i like to leave it a little big as well for adjustments and final sanding with the fine grit paper.

I like to shape right from the beginning. For me it's easier to size that way. I've sanded down to what I THOUGHT would be right then didn't hav any room for error/modification when shaping.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I'm with Ked,

Shape to an even cylinder, then create desired shape.

DR

Rough cut the cylinder, to just over the size the largest diameter of your grip will require (perhaps 1/8th to 3/16 inch oversize) with a Stanley SurForm file. Then take a half round scraper and true the cylinder. At that point, begin shaping with a narrow strip (1 inch) of 80 grit sandpaper. Once the final shape has been reached, begin the smoothing process with some 100 to 110 grit paper, followed briefly by 150, 220 and 320. Finish with 400 if you want a velvety smooth surface.

Instructions on grip shaping can be found in several issues of RodMaker Magazine.

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I actually make a template of the desired profile out of 3/4" lumber, and line the face of the cutout with 60 grit sandpaper. The template is such that it leaves the cork a bit oversize, then I can finish sand it to spec.

If you know or have an idea of the final shape. Lay the cork out and put reference points where the lowest areas or the grip your are going to be; such as a full wells grip. Also mark the center point of the grip. If you have a lathe and wood turning tools cut from the ends down to the lowest point then from the lowest to the center point stop when you get about 1/8 inch from the final dimension. Beginning with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper rough shape next move to 180 or 240 grit to the final shape and size. Finish with 400 grit. A word to the wise do not try to cut a grip out all the way with wood turning tools or you'll end up with a grip with hundreds of tiny pits that have to be filled. Get it close then final shape with increasingly finer grit sandpaper.

I have big hands, so do many I build for. We like oversize dia cork usually 1-1/4" dia is in a reasonable budget. I first turn a cylinder trying to maintain as much O.D. as possible. I then rough out the wells end to the traditional shape eyeing it, which I'm good at. Not so good or confident..make a template. I then fine tune the transitions, one to the reel seat and other to the large metal 3/4" dia Alu winding checks I like. I then look at the over all shape looking to see if it is proportional and appealing to the eye. The grip must flow from check to grip to seat. I try to keep a much dia as asthetically pleasing. If making a grip for a child, woman, or man with a smaller hand, I'd strart with 1-1/8" dia cork. I can ergonomically shape the grip to your hand at the outfits balance point if desired.(but after perliminarily shaped) I then, work up through the grits. Putting in a rubberized composite cork ring on the wells end to avoid chipping and slicing down and systematically working in some burnt cork pieces in a pattern really makes a grip look like a custom effort.

Thanks for the tips. The one about using a 1" wide strip or sanding paper for shapping was particularly helpful. The handle turned out really well. Except, I tried to fill some pits with cork dust mixed with epoxy. The patches turned dark. They were difficult to sand flat. So, I ended up having to shave them off with a razor blade. Now, there's some more sanding to do. I'll post a picture of the finished product.

I like to establish the cylinder using a very sharp skew or large scraper, utilizing the tool rest. Then I switch to using the surform tool to rough out the shape, and finally use sandpaper. I hadn't been satisfied with my full wells grip profile so I cut a profile out in wood (with a 10 degree angle) and apply coarse sandpaper to it. It works well for getting the two curves correct. When the profile is close I switch to freehand to finish.