Making encapsulated grips and hozels.
Posted by:
Jesse Buky
(---.dynamic-dialup.coretel.net)
To cast something you need a mold in which to cast it. I have found the one to one mold making rubber sold by Micro-Mark [micromark.com] works best of all the products I have tried for this step. First thing to do is make a full scale model of the grip or hozel that you want to cast. You can use foam or cork on a mandrel of 1/2"[grips] or 3/4" [hozels] PCV pipe. Coat the model with 2 or 3 coats of rod finish to provide a smooth hard surface on which to form the interior surface of the mold. This model should have about 1" of it's pcv pipe protruding from it's forward end. Take a cardboard tube [center of papertowel roll] and cut it one inch longer than your model. Prepare a small container [ash tray] with a smooth layer of modeling clay at least 1/2" deep. Place the butt of your model aprox.1/8" deep in the clay and ensure it is standing straight up. Mount the tube concentrically around the model and embedded in the clay. In a graduated quart container mix 2 to 3 ounces of the rubber and fill the mold enough to just cover the pipe protruding at the top. After the rubber has set for at least 6 hours pull the cardboard tube from the clay and peel the cardboard off the rubber. Holding the rubber at the top and bottom twist it back and forth and the model will come out of the mold.You now have your rubber mold in which to cast your grip or hozel.You can use metal tubes, scrap blanks, and many other things for the core of your grip, the reason I use pcv pipe is because it can be reamed to make it a bit larger ID if needed. What ever you use you must make sure it will go down the blank far enough to reach it's final resting place. Now you can be creative for the color and design of your core piece. Paint it, cover it with contact paper, make a foot long fancy wrap and coat it with finish then cut it into 4" pieces, same with marbelizing. Glue a pin or emblem on the core, place it in the mold and you are ready to pour. If you use castig resin you will not have air bubble problems but it will have to be buffed which is time consuming and nasty, it will also crack if hit just right. I use Flexcoat rod finish as a coat of finish after sanding it's ready to go. to eliminate air bubbles you must use a motorized mixer or in my case a gallon dispenser with a static mixer. I make hundreds of these so what is good for me is overkill for most of you.There you have it, pick it up and run with it. Jesse
