I've built many rods, mostly moderate to heavy offshore saltwater rigs.

I'm about to build a trolling rod for the first time and was wondering if there is anything unique or different I should know about.

The blank is a 5 1/2 foot Seaker 660XXH.
I plan to use AFTCO roller guides, triple wrapped. Hypalon grips and an aluminum reel seat and gimbal.

Please don't recommend "Spiral Wrap", its just is not for me.

I'd like to know if there are any hidden "gotchas" when building trolling rods as opposed to others.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

You picked a nice blank for this. I agree with a slickbutt, better yet I would use a unibutt. Don't forget the ferrule nut during assembly. I've built many with rollers, but for my own use most all the rods for my boat are made with ringed guides for ease of use and maintenance. They've done well on everything up to 150lbs. Fish any heavier than that I should not be messing with I figure......

With rollers ...... make sure the knots you'll be using will run freely through the frames. I had some aftco roller that would choke on the line/knots I was using. Had a knot jam in the frame with a big tuna on the end of the line. This lasted all of 10 seconds and the fish took care of things....

Lou

Maybe you guys can educate me a little.
I've seen factory trolling rods built with all roller guides, all ringed guides (except the tip), and roller guides on teh stripper and tip with all the rest ringed.
What is the rationalle for the different configurations?
Is it just personal preference?
Do they do it for cost savings vs. performance trade off?
Or, is there a different purpose for each?

Dan:

I think that the cost savings of the roller & ring vs. performance is not a trade off. It works fine . Lou has nailed it , IMHO. That is a great blank , so the cost should not be in picture, get you some good guides or rollers with knot room , slick butt , gimbal and hang on !! Love the Blue water !!!
Tight Lines
Bill

The Volume 5 #6 RodMaker has the most in-depth article ever written on building stand-up rods. It will answer almost any question you'd ever have on trolling rods, plus fighting harnesses, and then some. From the length of the blank you suggest, I'm guessing what you're building is a stand-up trolling rod rather than a sit-down model.

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Hi Tom:

Yes, definately a stand up rod.

-Dan

Length is important and should be decided by what the angler is doing. The placement of the reel seat is determined by the type harness he's going to use. A good stand-up rod requires that you consider all these factors so that everything will work together to ensure you have the best performing rod possible. Nothing worse than a stand-up rod that doesn't put the reel in easy reach of the user or that isn't the right length for what you're trying to do.

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Hi Tom:

Thanks for the info. I just ordered Volume 5 #6 RodMaker.

Thanks again.

-Dan

For me it's an 8" slick butt. Works in every harness I've ever hooked in to (adjustable straps are a must) and allows my reel to fall closer to my center of gravity. A 10" slick butt comes closer to the length of a unibutt and I just think they are too long for my idea of proper stand-up fishing. Keep an eye on the TV and you'll see alot of guys stand-up fishing with longer butts. They're easy to spot as their backs are in the shape of a question mark...you'll quickly see the advantage of a properly sized butt w/o ever having to experience it for yourself.

PS...I use a Braid PowerPlay bucket harness and my rod gimbal usually falls about midway from my waist to my knees. Perfect for my 5'10" frame.

Jay