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Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Jeff Singleton
(---.client.dsl.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 08:51AM
Ok, So I've searched and searched and can't find anything, although I know there's info here on it I'm sure. I Have a 6' Penn Slammer 20-40# rod with a Fuji DPS reel seat. The seat has broken free from the blank and spins around. I looked and can't figure out the best way to repair this seat. Do I have to remove and replace the foam grips or am I missing a trip to re-epoxy this seat into place? Thanks Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Anonymous User
(Moderator)
Date: January 26, 2007 09:32AM
The best method would be to remove whatever it takes to get the seat off, clean up the underside, prep it properly and re-adhere everything. But, in a pinch you can probably drill a small hole in the back side of the seat, then use a syringe to pump in some epoxy. This will probably hold the seat, for a while anyway. You're hoping to just get something in there to cause a jam or adhere to something well enough to get you by. Obviously it's not going to be a perfect fix, but depending on what you want to invest, timewise, into this rod, it might be all you want to do.
.................. Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Fred Yarmolowicz
(66.252.177.---)
Date: January 26, 2007 10:10AM
Jeff,Another method that works great is the
Jesse Buky method.Cut the rod in two at the center of the seat,remove the seat,find a piece of blank to fit in the ID of the rod to splice it back together and get a new reel seat.Prepare all surfaces to a water break free condition and glue it all back together with Rod Bond.Just make sure everything is aligned properly.Have done several with great sucess and amazement to the rod owner.Leaves the grips intact. Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte) Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Steve Gardner
(---.nc.res.rr.com)
Date: January 26, 2007 10:15AM
If you take Toms suggestion, with drilling the hole. I would drill it more towards the center of the seat. Maybe under were the reel mounts. Inject the epoxy. Then stand the rod up vertical. After it has cured put some more epoxy in the hole and hang the rod from the handle vertical with the tip down. This way it allows the epoxy to seal both ends of the seat for a stronger grip. Would also suggest using a slower curing epoxy. That would allow more time for it to seep into cracks and crevices before it cures for a better hold.
Keep a check on it and wipe off any excess that may seep out. Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Jeff Singleton
(---.client.dsl.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 10:28AM
So basically, for the perfect repair, I should remove everything necessary to get the reel seat off, then rebuild everything that disassembled Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Bill Stevens
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 11:23AM
Second the Buky Method - you do not have to remove anything except the reel seat.
This repair will take less than an hour and the thing will be stronger than before and you do not have to redo any thing else - only the seat is involved in the repair. Cut in center - split old seat with dremel and remove - fit up inner post and sleeve - epoxy post and sleeve on one end - slide new seat in place and epoxy. If you want to be real particular drill a hole in the butt cap or remove it and shove the tapered inner post in place from the bottom of the blank for a perfect fit u of the tapered piece. Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Jay Lancaster
(---.dhcp.embarqhsd.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 11:45AM
I'll tell you what. I've not ever thought of the 'Buky Method' as I've never had to repair a seat. But I'll be darned if that's not one of the slickets tips I've ever heard!
Jeff, you need to try that! No doubt it works, it's quick, and no one will know how you did it! Awesome tip. Thanks Fred & Mr. Bill...........and of course Mr. Jesse! Jay Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Jesse Buky
(---.dynamic-dialup.coretel.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 02:20PM
Thanks for the confidence guys, I wish I could say I thought this method up but I can't, I learned it while I was working in a tackle shop back in 1988. You just have to get your mind right and forget that it's wrong to cut the blank, it will be stronger than before . In most cases I've seen of seats coming loose is because most factory rods have cardboard bushings and when water gets to them the cardboard turns to mush and they break loose.. Jesse Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
dave schaub
(160.109.96.---)
Date: January 26, 2007 02:59PM
So that's why my Tweety Bird rod has a loose handle!!! Durn cardboard....
Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
Bill Stevens
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: January 26, 2007 07:51PM
There are a few more things about the Buky repair system that have not been mentioned.
Tell the customer that he will need to leave the rods with you for three days to get it properly fixed. When they come to pick it up tell them how tough it was to fix and get it done without damaging any of the other components. Tell them nothing but the price for the repair. If they are a Doctor or a Lawyer $ 50+. Cash goes in the pocket and checks and credit card payments in the register. They will never never figure out on their own what was done. Send Jesse and email and tell him another one bites the dust! Re: Reel Seat Repair
Posted by:
J.B. Hunt
(---.dsl.logantele.com)
Date: January 26, 2007 08:32PM
I've got a factory built spinning rod with colapsed seat. I figure the cardboard has been wet.
I'll have to do the Bucky Seat Replacement procedure on it. It will be a good one to practice on. Thanks Guys ! Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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