I'am trying to do a closed wrap on 8 axis on a fairly small diameter blank. The trouble is the threads keep wanting creep off line toward the tip section. Is this a question of improper thread tension? What makes it more troubling is the wrap consists of more individual threads than multiple threads. Also, is there a way of minimizing the huge balls of tape built up on both ends of the wrap?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff Leonard

If you havent done it you might try using an underwrap which sometimes helps hold the thread from shifting. Something else that helps is to reduce then angle of the thread a little but that requires changing your spacing all together. Both have worked for me in the past. Now I am not being a you know what on the last question but you can reduce the ball on the ends by using less colors because you tend to do less turns at the end when you do less colors. Also a little less tension means you make fewer turns when you do change colors. Just some thoughts. I hope the NERBS jump in on this one because they are really top shelf with this stuff.

As far as the ball of tape you are running into the best thing to do is to use double face carpet type tape. The creeping threads is more or less something of a too much tension...they want to slide away from the cross over points. Since I want my wraps to look flat, even and tight I just pack threads more often and live with it.

If carpet tape is not available just take masking tape and start to wrap it around the blank 1/2 turn then reverse direction and spiral up the blank sticking the tape to it self.It also helps to tape popsicle sticks to the blank 1st at 0 and 180 degrees and then spiral the tape up.The reason for the sticks is to make it easier to cut off the tape when finished.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Thanks gentlemen,
If I use carpet tape or double back the masking tape I assume your talking about laying down at least a couple inches in length on each end. How long of a working time does this allow before the tape loses its tackiness? I don't have the luxury of finishing anything in a single sitting, usually will take me a week to to this. I would hate to come back and find a mass of dislodged thread hanging from the rod.

Jeff Leonard

Jeff,

Here's a great pictorial showing it step by step [kensfishingrods.com]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Jeff it holds well.If you leave just put a wrap of tape over as a security.When it is time to start reverse another piece of tape and go to town.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I use a carpet tape with a picture of a Duck on the label, but not directly to the blank or handle, I first build up the area where the carpet tape goes with a combo of paper towels, masking tape, and will add a popcicle stick , wooden shish kabob skewer, or a dead brush in there so that when the wrap is to be cut away, there's less risk of damage to the blank or handle. The carpet tape (2-3 " wide, goes over it)

After a bunch of passes, and adding some small bits of masking tape when I have to cut and change thread, the carpet tape will lose its muster, so I'll add another thin layer of it.

With the threads creeping towards the tip on an 8 axis... depends on the pattern (I'll assume a fish scale, or a chevron to the right)....don't worry about it , eventually you'll meet up with the other side of the pattern, and those threads will keep things in place after some burnishing.

Using an underwrap helps eliminate threads from shifting, but may add bulk to the wrap. I always lightly scuff the finish of the blank with a 150 grit sandpaper to help threads from shifting.

Hope this helps..all the tips people have provided over the years helped me.