I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: January 13, 2007 09:28PM

Mick (thanks Mick) noted in another thread-I didnt want to hijack the other guys thread- that is was fine to use permagloss as a 1st coat of finish and re-coat later with a 2 part finish like Threadmaster or the like.

Questions:

How long should the permagloss dry before adding finish over it?

How long is too long to wait before adding finish over it?

How good will the adheasion betwen the PG and finish be?

DR




Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Edward D. Smith (---.ard.bellsouth.net)
Date: January 13, 2007 10:00PM

Duane,

I wait 2-3 hours before I put finish on over Permaglos. One problem I have this time of year is that my shop is in the basement and is colder this time of year. If I ture on the baseboard heaters and get the temp. up to 68 degrees F two hours is enought. I want to talk to Jim Upton on this subject in High Point! I think it is the best route to go but do not understand why.

Ed Smith

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Stan Grace (---.hln-mt.client.bresnan.net)
Date: January 13, 2007 11:53PM

I have waited several days after applying Permagloss prior to an over coat of two part epoxy without any ill effects. I alwys apply PG as my first coat to protect and fix my wraps. This allows me to apply the two part at my convenience.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Lou Perez (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 14, 2007 12:11AM

I just did this on a Fenglass rebuild and it turned out great. I put down 2 coats of permagloss 1 - 2 hours apart, cut any thread burrs off with a razor and then 1 coat of flex coat lite about 20 hours later. It is really nice and low build, just enough to cover the thread grooves and perfect for flyrods. I may do this on all my rods from now on.

Lou

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Dave Gilberg (---.pghk.east.verizon.net)
Date: January 14, 2007 01:24AM

Permagloss provides Peace of Mind

Permagloss provides a great protective first coat for wraps. Super strong and flexible; goes on fast and dries to the touch very quickly. I read that it is very important to allow time for all the vapors to evaporate before coating PG with any other finish, so I prefer to wait at least 4 hours. I feel safer waiting a day if possible. Once this first coat has dried I can stop worrying about the wraps being harmed. It also creates a smooth base for over wraps. Great product.



Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Joe Kassuba (---.dhcp.knwk.wa.charter.com)
Date: January 14, 2007 01:55AM

Perma Gloss is a humidity cure urathane and so the amount of time it take to cure enough before recoating can be up to an hour. Follow the permagloss instructions and when in doubt and test your process before you do it on your final product, Alway use thin coats for best results. A very clear and tough thread finish is to use 7 or 8 coats of Perma Gloss. This number of thin coats will usually completely cover A thread. I use Permagloss when in fishing camp to repair guides and have the rod back on the boat in a few hours. I have even used it to hold a guide ring in when I did not have super glue available and it worked well.
To preserve freshness of PG try storing it in a frost free frig, they have low very low humidity on the upper most shelf. Another way is to use a new unlined 1/4 ro 1/2 pt paint can. Before pouring in the PG screw in a a #6 or 8 screw eyelet in the side of the can at the base seam. Then pour in the PG and paint some of the left over PG on the lids sealing edge and press in on the can. A little PG will seep out around the screw eyelet and seal itself. Place the can on a doubled piece of paper towel to protect the surface the can sets on. Use the eyelet as a spigot to dribble out PG. Most times a few drops of PG will do the job so the eyelet just needs to be unscrewed enough to allow the PG to seep out a few drops at a time. I have cans that have lasted for two years. Could go into detail why this works so well but suffice it to say it does.
Thanks Ralph O'Quinn for sharing tips on PG with me over the years.



His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Pavel Novolokin (---.pppoe.mtu-net.ru)
Date: January 14, 2007 07:24AM

Like Stan, I usually wait for 2-3 days before PG almost stops smell at all. A couple of times applied 2-part finish over it next day without having any problems, though...

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Andrew White (---.ks.ks.cox.net)
Date: January 14, 2007 09:21AM

Another plus is that, because of the unique properties of PG, it will give your thread a slightly different color than either straight epoxy, or epoxy plus CP. So for example, 396 brown will turn very dark covered with straight epoxy, and will retain its original color with CP and epoxy. The color with PG, though, will be somewhere in between.

My only trouble with PG has been getting the tunnels completely filled. It tends to shrink a little or pull back as it dries. I was always able to get the tunnels about half-way full.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: January 14, 2007 12:19PM

Sounds like a win-win deal.......all but Andrews post about the tunnels......is that common with PG?

DR

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Permagloss as a 1st coat of finish
Posted by: Dave Gilberg (---.pghk.east.verizon.net)
Date: January 14, 2007 03:25PM

I apply one or two coats of Permagloss; letting each coat dry completely before proceeding. ThreadMaster is then applied to fill the Tunnels and finish the wraps. If only using Permagloss I use multiple coats; at least 4 on light fly blanks and 6-9 on heavier blanks.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster