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Advice for 1st 2-hander/spey-rod required
Posted by: Jan-Ole Willers (---.adsl.hansenet.de)
Date: January 07, 2007 12:45PM

Dear fellow rodbuilders,

I am about to start a new project, my first two hander. This is the main reason for the following questions in regard of combination of hardware and teh handle issue. Basic specs listed below followed by my questionnaire:


Blank: Forecast F1166/7-4 (Length 11 1/2 ft, class 6/7/8)

Reelseat: A8L2-SG or RA8L2-SG (Forecast)

Stripper: HLCC 20-16-12 (AmTak)

Guides: 6-5-4-4-4-4-4-(4) (SF-Recoils for weight and action reasons)

Tiptop: CFAT 8-5,0 (Fuji chrome framed Alconite)

Handle: Cork, reargrip with rounded rubber cork end



My main questions are as follows:

1. What length for the foregrip and what length for the reargrip (my height is 1,82m or almost 6 ft)

2. What handle shape is common for such a light spey rod?

3. What makes more sense for a rod like this, recessed or non recessed reel seat?

4. Comments in regard of teh choosen components.



As always please feel free to give your comments.

RGDS,
Ole
Ellerau/Germany

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Re: Advice for 1st 2-hander/spey-rod required
Posted by: Paul Rotkis (---.gci.net)
Date: January 07, 2007 03:07PM

Jan...

Here's my experience with these blank. I'm not sure what expereince you have with these rods, but they are bullet-proof-from the finish to the core.

1. They are true powerhouses and are the BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK! They will perform with ANY spey rod out there, and are even lighter than the Sage VT2 series rods. And make Loomis spey blanks look like boomerangs. (I'm not bashing, just stating the facts bluntly.)

2. Here are the Batson Specs.:
BATSON SPECS
Model
F1116/7 - 4
4 - 9 - 15.25 - 22.75 - 31.5 - 41.75 - 53.5 - 66.875 - 80.5 - 100. (Spacing)
4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 10 - 12 - 16 (suggessted guide sizes ) (Snake & UD )

3. As far as recessed hood or not I think that is cosmetically up to you sir. I personnally like the recessed for fly rods.

4. I personnaly think your choice of guide types and make are in my line of thinking-I concure with these guides too Jan. But you may not have to go with three strippers.

5. And for me, I like a little shorter fore grip with this rod-a 12.5" to be exact. And the rear grip about 4.5-5.5".

Here ya go Jan, good luck sir and you will not be disappointed with your fine choice.


The "tug" is the "drug" when swinging!
Paul

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Re: Advice for 1st 2-hander/spey-rod required
Posted by: Earl Hamilton (---.171.42.info.com.ph)
Date: January 08, 2007 03:48AM

Hi Jan,
I hope I can give you some idea here. I dont have any experience with the blank you are using, so I cant comment, but the brand is often highly recomended here. I have built many 11'6" fly rods for customers. My first questions to you would be what style of fly fishing are you doing, and what style of casting will you be using.
Most 11' 6" rods I have built in this weight range were in the standard single handed style for loch style fishing in the lakes, and for sea trout/salmon for the smaller rivers of the UK and othe parts of Europe. These are built with a fixed fighting butt of between 2 and 6" in length, and usually a full wells style fore grip for a standard casting style, that can be cast using a single or double handed haul-this style of build tends to be more for the line control on the water, rather than for the casting abillities of the rod. Taditionally 2-3 stripping guides were used.
I have also built many spey rods, but not as short as 11'6". However if you are using the "spey" style of cast you will need the long fore grip to accomodate the propper hand placement for spey casting- this is likely to be up to 16-18 inches above the reelseat. This is quite long for an 11' 6" rod, and if too short, the hand positioning on the foregrip may restrict your casting stroke a little-and you will need at least a 5" rear grip for your hand placement at the rear. Try out mock spey casting movements to find a comfortable length for you if you will be spey casting.
I would normally fit the reel seat in a downward locking position.
As for the guides, I think you are on the right track, but I would be inclined to have the second guide from the tip at about 2.5-3" to straighten out the line trajectory before it leaves the tip-this was a recomendation given to me by the late Hugh Falkus. It really does appear to help.
These recomendations are how I built these types of rods here in the UK and I hope will give you some answers to your questions, and more of an idea of what you need.
Best of luck, and enjoy.
Earl

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Re: Advice for 1st 2-hander/spey-rod required
Posted by: Terry Turner (---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 08, 2007 10:17AM

Jan,

Paul gave you good advice. I would only use 2 stripper guides as well.

I use a foregrip of 14" for rods in the 13' to 15' range. A 12 1/2" fore grip would be reasonable for a rod of this length. If you are still going to use primarily spey casts, you want enough separation between upper and lower hands to execute these casts well. The low hand does most of the work in 2-handed casts so the upper hand position is more of a personal comfort zone issue than a technical one. 12 1/2" should be good.

Your other choices are mostly personal or cosmetic. I prefer non-recessed seats for spey rods. I turn my own grips and usually use a full wells shape with a bit of a bulge in the middle. Sort of a reverse hour glass shape. I pay attention to the upper part of the fore grip where my hand will rest and make sure it fits well there for me, or for a customer if I'm building for someone else.

Good luck! It's a great blank and I know you'll be happy.

Terry

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Re: Advice for 1st 2-hander/spey-rod required
Posted by: Steve Perakis (---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 08, 2007 02:33PM

I'm an avid speycaster, that's pretty much all I do. I have built on your particular blank. I can't vouch for the gushing Paul provided, but for $90 kit, it is great.

The issue of cork length is a very personal one. Rather than think bottom or upper grip, I first think in terms of total length of both grips, inclusive of the reel seat - the full spread. Reel seats vary up to 2" length from style to style when considering inlet options and brands, etc. The total full spread length (cork+seat+cork) is functionally what you'll experience when casting and fishing. Reel seat position affects fulcrum feel, and is also important.

I prefer a wide grip. I can cast with a narrow grip, but I don't prefer it. A wide grip gives me a slower smoother initial acceleration. I hold the bottom grip with 1 or 2 fingers on the ball, to maximize my arm spread across the entire grip. When I do use a narrower grip, it is favored with short rods / short lines. Folks who build their own spey rods, and who naturally favor a narrow grip, will sometimes make the total length (cork+seat+cork) 18". That's short.

The rods that I build, buy, and fish are 23-26" (the 26" grips are on my boomerang Greased Liners). I used a 24" grip on the blank you are building. Again, I have a wider grip than most, so consider my numbers to be the upper end of the spectrum.

good luck, happy fishing.


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