Has anyone tried this stuff?

According to the web site MSDS it's a Urethane prepolymer Polymeric MDI*, the application I was thinking about was foam grips on a saltwater stick.

Yep ... it won't come back off for sure and the dust is toxic, so don't sand and breathe at the same time. I have been using Flexcoat RB Epoxy, but I understand that Diamondite Hypalon Epoxy is even slicker - although a touch more expensive.

I believe if you look at it, it also says it needs moisture to cure. The best thing I have seen used for foam grips is Rod Bond.

Jan, I haven't used it for rodbuilding applications, but I have used it. Strong, waterproof, but it expands and oozes out of any opening requiring sanding. I'd be afraid that it would come out of the reel seat/grip interface or the top of the grip and look creepy. I have used u-40 rod bond for grips and have had good success.

Tony

Nothing beats Rod Bond for just about any rodnuilding OR household jobs. Gorilla Glue does require moisture to bond. Surfaces have to be wet. One thing that I know it does well is make a big mess when it expands out of everywhere

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The foaming part was what had me concerned if I used it on grips. Sure is strong stuff on wood though.

Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane adhesive. It's great stuff, but not well suited for what we do when building a fishing rod. It is indeed a moisture curing urethane so you wlll need to moisten the inside of the grip and the rod blank. It is not as slick as most epoxies, so the grip will be far harder to slide into place. It also stains anything it touches, including human skin, so you'd need to exercise considerable care using it.

All in all, it's not going to be a good adhesive for grip mounting. At least not as good as most 2 part epoxies are.

............

I have replaced my Rod Bond at the advice of Ralph OQuinn with the following due to amine sensitivity:

[www.loctiteproducts.com]

This is the low foaming material that will eventually replace Gorilla Glue due to its low foam characteristics.

I have used it successfully on inshore and offshore rods and they are quite strong. No problem with the joints.

If and when I have a choice I will use Rod Bond due to ease of placement and cleanup of joints. When using these materials you have to be careful not to get ANY of it on your skin - it can not be removed!

You have to carefully prewet one of the surfaces when using this type of product. It does swell and I would think it would place visible glue joints in cork pieces for grips.

The Loctite site that the products is listed on has a lot of good information on adhesives.

Bill,

I wondered why you prefered the Loctite product over Gorillia Glue! Fundamentally they are the same chemical. The low foaming has advantages.

Along similar line, It makes me mad everytime I see someone talk about Ureathanes!! Ureathane is a very, very broad chemical term for so many different things. Permagloss, all CP's have some, Dimondite, and god only knows what else. Lytex is a very similar term that is broad as the Pacific! All acrylic's are a lytex! The cloudy CP's are ureathane dispersions with varied amonuts of solids and surfactants. The gudebrod 811 is a solution of acryics and ureathanes. Epoxy generally does not meet the criteria for a ureathane (Yet). But it is close because of the amine.

For what ever it is worth I would love to hear Ralph O'Quinn and Cliff Hall's technical comments!

Ed Smith

I have used Gorilla Glue to glue up wood grips and reelseats to blanks...It works, the foaming can be an issue if you are not careful, and cleanup if you are not careful is a real pain, but I don't react to it.

There ARE better products out there, DESIGNED for our hobby, but in all honesty, I had the GG laying around and went for it.

The verdict is still out as to how well it will hold up.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

I have tried Gorilla glue. I just don't like the stuff. Yet I have found a few applications where it would do a job that I could not find anything else to do.

But as a wood glue it is woefully weak. And as an assembly glue it is just a super pain to work with.

I try to keep a little bottle of it for when I can't find anything else that will work, but it generally goes bad in the bottle so I don't think the open shelf life is anything to brag about.

Much like PermaGloss, areas with high humidity are tough on the moisture curing urethane adhesives. It is good stuff, but maybe just not ideal for the particular things we do in rod building.

............

I glued up and turned a cork handle for an ul spinning rod just a week ago.Had the Gorilla glue and was curious about it .Placed the cork rings in a container of water, flipped em over, and applied the G.G. thinly and evenly with a throw-away brush.Clamped em up,wiped off the "foam" a coupla times, and let em set overnight. Turned em down with increasingly fine grits of sandpaper. They seemed plenty strong, and no glue lines showed; I've since mounted the grips on the rod, and they're fine. Can't see any reason to do it again...a fair amount of extra work involved to no apparent benefit, but the stuff worked very well. Barry.

I use GG on a daily basis for rod building it is superb for gluing up cork ring onto the blank and requires NO moisture to fully cure. it expands and fills in pits in the cork and eliminates glue lines.. if you are building your own grips it is absolutely the way to go. However you have to be careful and you have to clean up when you are done, this can be a problem with some blanks as the finish is not durable enough to stand up to acetone. or other even milder solvents. it also makes wonderful reel seat arbors if mixed with a small amount of water applied to the blank and allowed to turn while drying simply turn down the dried gg to fit the reel seat..
it's great stuff if you use it carefully..

-



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2007 09:59PM by Steve Kondolf.