Hi,
I have used 2 popular epoxy brands and a popular one-part urathane. All with satisfactory results.
I use the epoxies where weight is not a consideration. The result is a secure guide attachment,
I think, because of the shear bulk of the material and because the thread "tunnels" are easy to fill during the application process.
The urathane, however, does not fill the "tunnels" and therefore the guide feet are not "locked" to the blank.
I have tried destruction tests with thread coated with 3 coats of urathane (tunnels filled as best as possible) as well as thread coated with one coat of epoxy (with tunnels filled). To destroy the bond I "planed" the threads off the guide feet, with a razor", and lifted the guide off the blank. The results were as anticipated. In the urathane coated test the guide just popped off without resistance. The epoxy covered thread took some wiggling to remove it.
I tried unsuccessfully, to fill the tunnels of the urathane wraps with epoxy after a proper cure time . I think the reason that I could not fill the tunnels was because the threads were no longer permeable.

I usually build my rods with REC SF running guides to save weight and preserve as much of the blanks natural action (read speed) as possible. But now I am going to build another Dan Craft FT 9' 9wt and 10wt with Fuji Ti SiC Concepts. Take my word for it that the action changes drastically. I am just trying to have it change as little as possible.

How do I use urathane to reduce weight but still have secure guides - especially stripers????
Herb

Sounds like your thread tension is not enough. Epoxy or the urethane is not meant to hold the guides onto the blank, but to protect the threads. I have fished rods without any epoxy on them with no problems. I would check your thread tension. Also use a some kind of locking wrap with single foot guides.

Check out the new issue of RodMaker where urethane guide coatings are concerned. You're going to be surprised.

The thread is what holds the guide to the blank. Filling in those "tunnels" with something to act as a "shoulder" will provide a means to keep the guide from shifting. It can be anything - CP, epoxy or even urethane. The former and the latter will take more coats/applications, however, in order to get enough build up in there.

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The thread is what holds the guide in place. the finish is to protect the thread and doesn't bond the guide to the blank.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!