Does anyone see any reason why recoil guides cannot be powder coated? I thought that would be a cool touch but am not sure if it would not work as it may crack or peel or something. Any ideas

It wouldn't crack or peel until and unless you heavily flex the guide frame. At that point, it might crack.

The thing to do would be to powder coat a few and see how they hold up when flexed.

How many licks to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop? Only one way to find out.

...........

I would be willing to bet that braided line would chew the paint off, within the interior of the ring, in record time. In addition, there might be some challenge in getting the guide properly heated to powder coat, titanium has excellent heat dissippation. Electrostatic coating might be a better option and provide a superior finish.

Other than that, the "tootsie pop" test recommended by the wise owl will have to do.

lol guess the wise old (notice he said old Tom) has it i'll let you know what the outcome is as i may make time to play this weekend and try it out.

I would think anodizing would be better then powder coating.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

i think that anodizing might be the best way to go. You can get so many more colours and the coating is alot more durable

Hi there;
Yeas and no; but why any way? The add weight of the coating defeats why your using this kind of guide. If you want to go that way it would be better to go with a cheaper guide.
Titanium and its alloys are hard to coat and even harder to plate with out having the coating not peel off. Even with PVC the coatings can peel off. Add to this the extreme flexibility of Recoils bass metal and you would have coating failure in no time! It can be anodized but I’m thinking you will end with a smoke look and not all the colors like you can get with some other anodized metals.
Best Wish;

I echo with the anodizing method over powdercoating. I have had tons of things powdercoated in my life and when you deal with things that flex and have small surface area, the result would be cracking if they flexed. Also, the friction of the guide may increase due to the powdercoating process. Not all folks whom powdercoat use a smooth finish...

Paul

Hi folks,

We use powdercoating in our production process - to be honest I do not work there directly but know some people who do.

It might be a good idea to do that with the frame of a mountain bike to get a long lasting surface but I assume very much that the surface would not be half as smooth as the original surface - due to the way the molecular structure is being created between basic material and substrate.

On top I would follow the a.m. suspicions in regard of the flexibility - I do not know any application where powdercoating is used on flexible or under regular conditions flexing surfaces.



RGDS,
Ole
Ellerau/Germany

You might also consider that adding heat to the guides might change the physical properties of the guide material itself. I know that I have worked with regular springs in the past and when you have one that is the right length and diameter, but to hard to compress for a particular application, you can heat it up just a bit with a lighter to weaken it. I realize that the springs are probably not made from the same material as the recoils, but it could have similar affects.

TJ

As someone who has done a fair amount of powder coating, I can tell you a couple of things.

First, the heat will in no way effect the quality/hardness of those Ti guides. They only need to be baked at 385ish for roughly 15 minutes to set the PC.

Second, Automotive car coil springs are powdercoated and they flex continiously with use and the PC holds up just fine. I have done at least 20 sets and never had one come back. I have also done TONS of PC hood springs with no flake or peel.

Third, the weight of the PC powder on a guide can be minimal or substantial. If you put a light coat of PC on, it would be far less that 1/2 a gram per guide. I would say proffesionally sprayed(NOT dipped which would be heavy) very lightly would weigh less than spray paint over the same surface area

Lastly, the durability of PC is legendary but the tip top and any other high friction areas will lose the coating over time with braid...maybe even with mono. This isn't due to heat. Its a friction issue. Once PC is heat cured, if it gets hot again, it does NOT get soft. Braid cuts into non ceramic guides. PC isn't harder than steel.

I know you can powdercoat stuff at home with nothing more than a toaster over....I have no idea how to even attempt anodizing at home. I have been wanting to powdercoat a bunch of SS DF boat rod guides for a while now. I was thinking about powdercoating the guides and then using a Dremel to buff the powdercoat out of the center of the guide ring. I just have not had the time to play yet.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work