After reading a few of the threads here, I began to wonder...How many builders are using two coats of finish on their guide wraps. When I used FlexCoat Lite, I used two, sometimes three coats. When I switched to high build, I went to one coat. I switched to high build to use on repairs, to cut down labor and time to complete the repair. I'm using Threadmaster now, and using just one coat. Most rods I build are 3, 4, or 5 wt fly, or bass rods for 6-15 lb line. The wraps look and feel fine, and I make sure there is finish in the tunnels of the bigger guides that have a gap.

What do you think?

I normally get by with one. Only exception would be very heavy stand-up and trolling rods.

.......

Hi Fran,
On the lighter rods I build if I have done really well with the wraps (no fuzzies or nubs and such)
I can completed the rod with only one coat of Flex-Coat or ThreadMaster. However, I'm usually
not that perfect or lucky so I end up needing to cut a nub or two or find some sort of imperfection
that causes the need for a second coat to get it "just right". On heavier rods 2 coats are a must
IMHO and have somethimes applied 3.


Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I Usually?? get by with 1 coat of Threadmaster on the guides

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I usually apply two to three coats of FC.......probably could get by with one coat if I had a four rod drier. Jesse?

When you guys say one coat, I am sure you must have gone over the guides at least twice during an application. Maybe, Tom and Mike would like to explain how you do that and still can get away with one coat and be satisfied with the final result regardless of the type of wrap you use. Apart from a zero wt fly rod, I'll always apply at least 2 coats. Most of my bass rods will get 3 coats and boat rods 4 coats and above.

Anthony Lee

I also use one coat. Throw it on, and start the sag/wick process and that's it.

Only odd thing I do is when it is cured I usually give them all a coat of permagloss.

Mick,

With one coat, no matter how thick I apply, my experience is that the peak of the guide foot will always get a thinner layer that the rest of the guide as the epoxy will be drained from its highest point as it turned. This give it an ugly appearance which I do not like. Don't you people get this with one coat.

Anthony Lee

This thread could get quite confusing to a lot of people. If you do a quick thin coat of finish out of the pan as soon as it is mixed and allow saturation into the guide threads while you are working on a butt section with the rest of the finish - wait for just a few minutes - say into the mid life of the pan thickening - go back over the soaked in area a second time how many coats would you call this. If you are using a quality regular build finish this could easily be enough to get an excellent finish on most inshore and bass rods. This may not be acceptable to most if your are using Perma Gloss or some of the Lite Versions or LS. Your ramping of the guide frame and the period in the pot life that you are doing the application will have a lot to say about the look that Anthony is describing.

Anthony,
While doing my wicking and initial drying (hand turning) the majority of the time is spent with guides down, to help this out and also to get as much excess as possible removed from the guide leg where it meets the blank. I don't like a big web of finish there.

Also, guide prep will really help out here. If I slap on an unprepped guide on something for myself, I usually get a bit of what you describe on the edges of the guide foot. That sharp angle on each side from the flat top doesn't like to hold finish very well. If you round over the guide foot with a nice transition, as well as knocking the overall height down with a good taper, it really helps out with that "barely coated thread" look.

I have noriced the phenomenon refered to here by a few of the one coat sometimes not quite looking perfect on top of the guide foot. However, I use the sag/wick method, which I find works very well, and pay special attention to the foot after most has been wicked off. If I need to, I then put a drop of finish right on the foot, and let the rod turn. It seems to add just enough to correct that issue.

I try to stay away from having to apply two coats, since I am not yet retired, like Mike Barkely and some others, and have to try and make a living in between wraps. So scheduling the second coat while the first one is still not totally cured is sometimes a challenge. Besides, if I can get it right in one coat, and it's durable enough, (excepting big rods) why add any more labor? I teach a "Build your own fly rod" class at a local shop here, and if we had to do two coats, it would add another class session to the program. As it is now, we can build a rod in three nights over three weeks.

Thanks for all the input. Good information.

I've always wondered why guys talk about having to do more than one coat on any freshwater rod! I've never used more than one coat on guide wraps, and achieve good results with even epoxy distribution around the rod and over the top of the guide. The thread is covered completely, but there is no extra epoxy - all that is is extra weight. As noted before, proper guide prep helps. I use the "put it on heavy and wick it off the bottom while turning by hand" method - after no noticeable droops (usually takes 4-5 revolutions and 1/2 hour or so), I put the rod in the dryer.

Do you guys who do the one coat method, not have any problems with bubbles when not using CP? I prefer the look of no CP and have been doing my finish in two coats. One thin saturating "primer" coat, and then one finish coat to avoid the bubbles in the last coat. However, I too am like the others with a day job, and if I could get by with one coat on my bass rods, that would be great.

TJ

I'm getting very few bubbles with Threadmaster, and I use a gentle flame to eliminate them. I use an alcohol lamp from Buffalo Dental to direct the flame exactly where I need it. CP or no CP, it makes no difference in my process. If you've got bubbles in the first coat, and put a second coat on top, haven't you captured the bubbles permanently? If you are removing them before the second coat, then wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the second coat?

A single coating of LS Supreme Hi Build is all I ever need.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

A single coat of FlexCoat, is all I have ever used, on freshwater rods......saltwater rods always required more.....My good friend, Gerald McCausland told me , he never used more than one coat on his rods, felt if that was good enough for Gerald,it was good enough for me !!


MaryLou
Weatherford,TexasUSA