I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Robert Hively (204.248.120.---)
Date: September 08, 2006 08:17AM

Wy is it that those making cork grips (not rings) do not make them with larger holes (id)?

It is infinitely easier to shim a blank than it is to ream preassembled cork grips. (I do turn my own grips, but at times, it is way easier to simply slid on a premade grip assy, but the reaming is a major pin and messy.) Yes, I know about getting tight fit etc, but in practical sense, shimming seems so much easier.

Comments?

Hive

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: September 08, 2006 08:26AM

The Volume 9 #5 issue of RodMaker will solve your problem entirely. Within, are the plans for making a very simple tool that will allow you to power bore your cork grips in mere seconds. You'll be more than a little surprised when you see just how easy it is to do and how simple the tool is to make. And... it works better than you can believe, in just seconds. Now you can pretty much toss out those bastard files run in reverse and your hand reamers. You won't need them ever again. Well, keep the reamers - you might still have to put the finishing touch on the bore with one, just to get the right taper.

I should also mention that this new tool will also keep the bore perfectly centered in the grip, without any undue care on the part of the person using the tool. It's nearly automatic.

I would suspect most pre-shaped cork grips are supplied in 1/4 inch bore because most feel that it's easier to just take out some material than to shim or put any back in. Shimming a cork grip is a bit more involved than shimming a reel seat because you need to fully support it all along its length. And, I'd bet that the rings obtained by most grip makers come standard with a 1/4 inch bore.

.................



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2006 09:14AM by Tom Kirkman.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Jason Alvarado (---.dc.dc.cox.net)
Date: September 08, 2006 08:37AM

A piece of scrap blank (depending on diameter needed) with emory cloth lightly glued and spiraled around it makes a wonderful drill attachment. If the butt is too big for a 1/2 in drill chuck, you can pc-11 a 1/2 in bolt to the butt and cutt the threads off with a hacksaw. Takes no time at all to ream a grip at 3000 rpm or so.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Scott VanGuilder (162.96.169.---)
Date: September 08, 2006 12:04PM

I had the emory come unglued on a reamer like that and it was a bit difficult to remove it from the grip, so it is not totally foolproof. And I used 30 minute epoxy to secure the emory cloth.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Mark Syck (---.mgm.bellsouth.net)
Date: September 08, 2006 10:55PM

A high temp contact cement is what I use to glue the 1/2" X whatever length, reaming/emory cloth. Leave about 3/8" gap in the strip as it is wound down the shaft. Works great as long as you wind the cloth in the right direction.

Mark Syck

SYCKO Custom Rods
There Are No Limits To The Imagination

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Question re: grip ID
Posted by: Jason Alvarado (---.dc.dc.cox.net)
Date: September 09, 2006 01:38PM

Scott, are you sure you were running the drill in the right direction?

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster