From what I can understand, a float rod and drift rod are basically the same thing (I think). But what is the major differences between a float rod and a noodle rod? From what I've read the noodle rod is a much lighter power rod with a moderate to slow action to allow catching large fish on light line. I was criticized by a rodbuilder on this site for stating "overplaying a fish on light tackle for a length of time could cause the fatigued fish to die after being released". But here is a quote I read about noodle rods on the internet;

" A quick word of advice to those considering a noodle rod: You do yourself and the fish a big favor by applying maximum pressure when fishing with this rod; the faster you land the fish, the better its chances for survival when released". Seams like that's exactly what I said awhile back.

So if building a noodle rod, would it be built set up for a spinning, centerpin, casting, or fly reel? Thanks.

Tim,
I agree with you whole heartedly, I've killed more fish with my 1141 rods from the bank, than all the other rods combined. I am also getting on in years and don't enjoy swimming the river or running the rapids with the fish as much as I used to. Hence, I rarely use them unless I'm on a boat and can stay on top the fish. The new Rainshadow 1142 blank I think is going to help me some with fish survivability. I'd build the rod with whatever reel is the most comfortable for you to use, for me I'd use the spinning reel.

Tim I'm nor sue where you're from but here in BC a Float Rod and a Noodle Rod are two quite different products.

The classic Sage 3113 is considered by many to be the most versatile Float Rod for all round fishing whether built for a bait caster or centrepin and no one would cal it a noodle.

The Noodle Rod with it's light line ratings is something we see little of compared to eastern North American because of larger faster rivers here-as I understand it.

Tim,

How's the rod of your's coming? Have you fished it yet? ANyway, to answer your question about the differences of the two rods. I was born and raised around the Great lakes area where Disk Swan pioneered them.

Reader's Digest version is this: Noodle rods like stated above, are generally built to use light line (ie. 2-6 lb test.) They have super slow actions, vitrually no power, (even the Fenwick HMG noodle had a super-slow action) and the when playing a fish of any size the cork handle flexes. And what you said in your first paragraph is 100% true...I know this cause I have owned many noodles and the mortality is quite high. Period. You hit the nail right on the head when you said they are used to catch larger fish on lighter line Tim.

Also, noodles rods are generally used with spinning reels, and then would be built accordingly..(Guide spacing and first butt guide etc.)
I have never seen a noodle rod used with any other type of reel other than spinning or a trigger spin reel. Dick originally used trigger spin reels. Now after saying that, some guy for the Pacific Northwest is going to say thay used baitcasters on them all the time...I can just here it. LOL

As you already know, float rods have faster actions and thererfor the guide spacing is a little different and the first butt guide is normally a sz 20. I built one the other day and used a 16 for a butt guide and could tell NO DIFFERENCE from all of my other rods. (So therefore, it will be a 16 to start with.) It would hinder me using a 16 if I was to put a spinning reel on this rod, but that will not be done.

Anyway, hope that put some insight on it Tim, you hit the nail on the head man...and I ordered that same reel seat that you used for that float rod of yours....Boy was that a nice set-up. I'm going to put it on a 15' IM6 and IM8, Raven 8# rod. (Man I like those blanks, they work so well up here!)

Take care,
Paul

Hi Paul, both rods are done - the 13' Talon built with Recoil RSPG spinning guides and yes . . . I used a #8 for a tip top and it came out looking great. (I ordered the lightweight fly top just in case but didn't like it). My 12' Lamiglas is ready to see action for Salmon in about two weeks. I built that one with Fuji SIC titaniums. I used the same handle concept on both - can't wait to fish them!

a float rod and a noodle rod are not even close to the same thing tim

Many Steelheaders in Ontario use Noodle rods with Centrepin reels-many more than Spinning.

Sam
I would disagree with you as I have not seen a Noodle rod on any of the creeks or rivers that I fish. There are a lot of float rods such as the Rainshadow IST1384F and IST 1562F or the Raven , St Croix, and Loomis equivelents.

The natural reproducing Steelhead are too precious a resource to kill with a noodle rod.



Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

If memory serves, an American named Dick Swan popularized the "noodle" rod, for fishing very light baits in the creeks called "rivers" that trib the great lakes, in the Michigan area that flow at about 6 inches per second.
Great for a kill fishery, when the fish is on line for 3 hours, because of the 6 pound test and lighter leaders. Not so great for a catch and release fishery.
As posted above, a vast difference between a float rod, and a noodle rod. Why the long length of either, you ask.
Both are fished either standing onshore, or wading in the water.
The longer rod makes for a longer hypotenuse of the right triangle formed with the rod, line and the float, so more line is in the air, than on the water, for a better control of the float's drift, and a more positive hook set. Hard to strike quickly when line's on the water, with all the extra friction, etc.
The slower the set, the more likelyhood of a "gorf"...instead of a jaw hookup. Gorf after gorf is the mark of an amateur floatfisher. They eventually develop lightning fast reflexes, and will to be able to detect a hit, just as it's happening.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2006 01:29PM by Ken Driedger.

IMO........Basically the same thing............Drift ..Float.. Noodle. Depending on where you are at.

I have lived in both the Great lakes and on the west coast. You can use a float or bottom bounce....center pin or spinning reel. You use lighter leaders for clearer water and trout which are line shy. Bigger rods for bigger water. Heavier actions for bigger fish and where you can get away with using heavier line. The purpose of the softer action on lighter rods is in part to protect the light line....the rod gives before the line breaks. Don't kid yourself into thinking these rods don't have any power. Wrap the line around your finger and have a friend apply pressure from 20 to 30 ft away you will soon change your opinion.

As far as the comment about the coment about creeks called rivers.............you need to go to the niagara. I have landed a 27lb chinnook on a "Noodle rod" with 6 lb test out of the current in the niagara and the fish was released in less than 30 mins. As far as catch & release the Salmon die after they spawn. For steelhead 6 lb tippett is heavy....most people I know that catch fish go down to 4lb or 2lb depending on clarity. You will lose fish but hook 10 times as many. I have never seen an angler with a fish on for 3 hours while fishing with a noodle rod?? I fish a lot.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/28/2006 01:32PM by Joe Brenner.

Joe,

I gotta 100% disagree with you. Float rods have one "general" common denominator with noodle rods; lenght. And that is it. I still ahev my old Fenwick noodle rods and none even come close to the ten float rods I have. Drift rods as you know from living on the West Coast, are generally used with casting reels and are built on the same blanks as spinning and some float rod blanks. Drift is the style of fishing.

The fish caught and released on noodle rods are more suseptable to death. There is no way to debate that logically. I used noodle rods back in the late 70's and 80's. Landing fish on them requires a high degree of techinque and skill, which most noodle rodders do not posess.

Also, the 27# Chinook in 30 min? I have to say Joe that if it was a Chrome fish that fish would have been to the bank with my 13' 15# float rod in 15 min or less. All things being equal. If it was a post spawner, 12 min topps.

I'm not trying to start a brawl or disrespect your opinion in any way Joe, but there is no good argument (IMO) for the use of noodle rods in big rivers where the fish are freash and have not spawned yet. And I agree, that I too have never seen a fish on for 3 hours with a noodle rod. It jusy takes a large amount of experience to land fish in big water to decrease to the rate of mortality.

Respectfully,
Paul

Paul,

What you are talking about is Action & Power. They have in common length....style of grip....similar guide requirements...actions vary somewhat but even a stout 14 ft rod has a pretty good bend when loaded....what else is there?

You are talking about using different styles of basically the same thing.........yes there are differences. And yes some are suited for different applications hence the need.

The Salmon was Silver and I was using 6lb line and a 9 1/2 ft long rod......with 15 lb line and a 13 foot rod it would have been easier to land and faster ....but I wasn't. My point was even with what you would deem a noodle rod and 6lb test line in very very fast current I landed a fresh 27 lb fish.....lighter action rods have there place. Whether you or anyone else prefer them is another question entirely.

I was not talking about drift fishing from a boat....I was talking about bottom bouncing....if you do this with a "Float rod" can you still call it a float rod.

Inexperienced anglers always have more opportunity to harm fish more than more experienced anglers...in all types of fishing I have encountered.

I am generalizing.......but how specific can the term "Noodle" get. You won't find it in any blank catalog I know of. Look under steelhead rod.

I am not trying to disrespect you Paul...we just don't agree and that is ok.

Joe

Under the Loomis GL2 steelhead blank listing there is a N1382GL2 blank. This is a 11'6" slow action Ultra light power blank which is what everyone calls a Noodle rod. All the float rods that I know are a Moderate to Moderate-fast action and a Light power rating.

The difference there fore is you can apply more "power" to fight the fish, and land it in a shorter period of time; using a float rod the using a Noodle rod.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

Tim,

The reason these lighter rods were designed were primarily for Steelhead and Brown trout in Great Lakes Trib's. Because the water is clear very light lines are required....but you still need power. The leverage of the long rod and soft action to protect light tippetts accomplish both of these tasks. The long rods also as stated above allow for longer drifts with less drag because you have less line sitting on the water.

I would suggest a heavier action rod for Salmon if that is your target species.......sometimes you may hook one when fishing for trout as they are sometimes going to be in the same places at the same times. The right rod is the one that fits your applications and feels best in your hand...no matter what it is labelled as.

Rolly,

At some point you are going to start losing fish to break offs (because of light line in clear water) with a heavier action, or you will hook less fish due to them being line shy and you using heavier line. It is a personal choice....some guys might only have 2 or 3 takes in a day but land them fairly easily with heavier line. With lighter line another guy might have 10 or 12 takes on a good day he might land 5 or 6 fish on a bad day only 2 or 3....which way to go? It is a balancing act .

I do understand the differences you are talking about........but I still stand with that they are basically the same beast.......one is generally lighter than the other.

Joe,

I agree Joe that it is ok to disagree sir, as you have stated. And yes, there have been rods from Loomis in past cataloged as noodle rods. (I was on the Pro-Satff for 5 years.) Most makers do not anymore as you know, due to the controversy I suspect.

I agree also, that noodle rods have there place-rivers that have a slow current and less depth. IMO.

Sure you could still call it a float rod. Just because you go with your buddies one or two times and use it the rod while you are bottom/back bouncing, would be silly not to call it a float rod. Would you a call a spinning rod a casting rod if you put a casting reel on it for a couple of trips? (And no, I haven't doen this..LOL) Just trying to make a point...

Doing the CCS test would prove that (MOST) float rods have greater power-I know everyone of mine do, than any true noodle rod.

Have a great day Joe, and may your drifts be long...Take care...

Paul Rotkis

Any of yall ever heard of reverse hyperbole? And 'dark humour' ? of *course* three hours and flows of 6" a second are ridiculous....Noodle rods as invented, were really wimpy things like an old CB antenna....if memory again serves, Mr. Swan was supposed to have built the prototype *on* a 12' car CB antenna..to protect the light leaders needed to catch the fish in the low, slow, clear tribs ot the lakes.

Ken.. SOrry about that, I didn't catch it.. And yes, an ole CB antenna hits the nail right on the head...

Paul

Joe

I think that that is why 4 lbs flourocrbon leader material is used for. I carry 3 sizes of leader with me and adjust due to the clarity of the water. If you use 8 lbs man line and then your leader it reaaly doesn't matter.

The true difference in a float rod is the noodle rod is a SLOW action rod with a Ultra light Power and the float rod Is a FASTER action with a heavier power which is what Tim asked in the first place.



Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

Ken,

I missed ur sarcasm too.....sorry if I came across defensive. Having a bad day at work today!!

Paul,

I don't question ur credentials or your point of view.

Rolly,

"The true difference in a float rod is the noodle rod is a SLOW action rod with a Ultra light Power and the float rod Is a FASTER action with a heavier power which is what Tim asked in the first place. "I would agree with this but you don't qualify what exactly the action is on a float rod....just faster than slow....one would think the difference between the 2 would be much more defined than that. When I pick up a rod in a rack how will I know if it is slow or faster than slow (being sarcastic)...glad we are not splitting hairs.

I have about 8 different wt flourocarbon leader spools on my pack right now ( 4lb is far from the lightest)......but your whole rig is only as strong as your weekest point no matter how heavy your main line is.

I don't buy into the whole your killing fish by using a lighter rod thing either....if you don't want to harm or stress fish (I went to college for fisheries & aquaculture management) just leave them alone and don't catch em at all. I assume you know these fish (Great Lakes Steelhead) you are calling Natural are an introduced species.

Getting off topic...Sorry.