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madeira 40wt
Posted by: Luis Villarreal (---.rgv.res.rr.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:37AM

Hey gays and gals;
I'm writing to find out about madeira 40wt. I heard that some people use this to weave. My questions are: What is it used for, is it wrap or weave, and can it be used for wraps. It is avalable is poly and rayon, which works best.

Luis Villarreal
www.bass_v_rods@yahoo.com
Rio Grande City, Tx

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Michael Sledden (---.fsepg.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:45AM

You want to use the polyneon. I use it alot for guide wraps and butt wraps. Great color selection. If you do a search for Madeira you will find lots of info.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Mike Barkley (---.try.wideopenwest.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:48AM

#40 Polyneon (I would stay away from any kind of Rayon. Too many problems reported). I use it for guides and butt wraps a lot. 330+ colors

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Tester (---.dsl.zianet.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 05:32PM

I have tried numerous kinds of thread over the last 2 weeks and am having trouble with color bleeding. I am beginning to wonder if the Fex Coat CP that I use is the problem? I haven't tried Maderia 40#, it's not available in town, but just ordered Mettler polysheen 40# and it is also bleeding. Before I order Maderia, thought I'd post my problem and see if different CP is the answer.

I'm wanting to inlay feathers over the wrap, so that is why the CP.

Jim T

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Mark Fisher (---.sa.bigpond.net.au)
Date: August 25, 2006 06:07PM

Jim,

How many coats of CP are you using? Have you stired the contents before applying? How thick do you coat the area with CP? Have you thinned it in any way?

I have been using Gudebrod and U40 with great results. For feather inlays I use 1 coat of CP for the base layer of thread. Then, depending on the number of feathers being layed, I usually use 1 coat per layer. When I have finished laying feathers, I give the whole wrap and inlay another coat. I use the U40 for the inlayed area and Gudebrod for the guides. I like the time factor that that U40 gives me to adjust the feather barbs into place.

I have been using Mettler for a long while now and never had a bleed that I didn't intend. eg in a Tartan.


Regards
Mark

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Tester (---.dsl.zianet.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 07:01PM

Mark

I tried to imitate the inlay you did and posted as Speed Samuari. I tried a dozen different but close threads, and finally ordered Mettler polysheen 1352, salmon off the internet. I put one coat of FlexCoat CP thinned only silghtly with water. I have a 1 oz bottle and shake it before application. I wrapped a layer this afternoon, and as I type, it exhibits dark streaks around the wrap. I can try other CP's but so far have focused on different threads.

Thanks for the help, and the inspiration from the beautiful inlays.

Jim Tes

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Upton (---.lsanca.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: August 25, 2006 07:36PM

Jim; What do you man by bleed? Are you saying that you can see the blank color through the thread? Are you saying that the color of one thread is being transfered to another thread of a different color? Are you saying that the dye in the thread is coloring the CP ? Or are you just saying that you are getting light and dark areas after applying CP to your wraps? And last but not least why are you thinning your CP?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2006 07:39PM by Jim Upton.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Tester (---.dsl.zianet.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 08:54PM

Jim

I see light and dark bands after I apply the CP, it might be the blank color, but I attempted to pack the thread as I wound it. I haven't tried adjacent colors, so I guess that "bleed" might be inaccurate.
I added just a little water after I got the bands the first couple of times. I wondered if the CP might be too thick.

Jim Tester

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: dave schaub (---.ev1.net)
Date: August 25, 2006 10:37PM

What it sounds like to me is you are getting 'bleed through'. The dark color of the blank is coming through the thread and causing the streaks. This happens all the time with light colored threads. I now paint my blanks white underneath the wrap or guides if I am using white, yellow, light green or any other very light color. I have some magnificently ugly bleed throughs from NOT painting because I got in a hurry. Yellow is one of my worst offenders.
Take a piece of black blank and do 15-20 wraps with yellow and then do white. Put your CP on and see what happens. I bet you will see what I see--bleed through of the blank. Its just the way it works no matter how tight you pack it. The CP causes the thread to go partially transparent and here comes the blank color. Where it is doubled or tripled in a cross wrap, you wont get as much or no bleed through. The other thing you can do is put an underwrap on but these are hard to work with sometimes.
Good luck.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Stan Gregory (---.dyn.embarqhsd.net)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:28PM

Another way to help block-out black rod blank color for weaves/wraps is to underwrap with say Silver Sulky metalic and pack it well. I like to put a coat or two of 811 to help fill the spaces between underwrap threads prior to beginning a weave/wrap with lighter colors.
Hope this helps.

Stan

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Upton (---.lsanca.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:44PM

Try what Stan suggests and see if that doesn't fix the problem. I would also suggest not thinning the CP unless you are using 811 and it's really thick.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Mike Barkley (---.try.wideopenwest.com)
Date: August 25, 2006 11:50PM

Jim,
Why are you thinning it??By thinning it, you are reducing the solids and as a result are adding less of the ingredient that seals the thread. What colors are you having problems with?? I just finished 4 rods today that had light colors of Madiera over a black blank. I applied one HEAVY coat of Flexcoat CP (Normally use 811, but was out) and had no bleed through. Streaks sound like you might have tiny gaps in your thread. You need to pack, pack and pack some more and then burnish. Look at you thread with a magnifying glass and see if their are any gaps.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2006 11:56PM by Mike Barkley.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Scott VanGuilder (---.client.mchsi.com)
Date: August 26, 2006 06:50AM

I have been using Mettler thread with good sucess and have used a few pale blue and pinks with no bleed through. I do thin my CP a bit, but also put on 2 coats to be sure I wind up with a glazed donut looking finish after the CP. I am going to go out on a limb and say your thread may not be packed well enough. Works for me.

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Jim Tester (---.dsl.zianet.com)
Date: August 26, 2006 04:25PM

Thanks for all the ideas and comments. I'm new at rod building and am wrapping a flyrod. I've been a bit reluctant to try an underwrap, but I guess it's worth it to learn how. I gave up ont the salmon color for today, used metallic copper for an underwrap, and am letting the feather inlay dry now.

Thanks again for all the generous pointers, and the inspiration to keep trying.

Jim Tester

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Re: madeira 40wt
Posted by: Stan Gregory (---.dyn.embarqhsd.net)
Date: August 26, 2006 09:24PM

Jim,

Another way to block-out a black blank for use with light colored threads is to apply two coats of PermaGloss tinted with titanium dioxide. The PermaGloss gives a much harder surface than any paint I've tried for blocking-out the black blank beneath a wrap/weave.

I got the titanium dioxide pigment from a local paint supplier - they just gave it to me but I had to pay a few cents to purchase the can to put it in.

Stan

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