I do a lot of grips using foam and cork together. I always use contact cement between foam rings, Rod Bond betwen the foam and cork and Rod Bond or Titebond between the cork rings. Once in awhile, I get some small separation (pulling apart) between the foam and the cork. Does anyone use contact cement between foam and cork??? Would it create a better bond than Rod Bond with the Foam to the cork????

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike, which side of the joint and exactly where is the separation. I would suspect that the foam is pulling loose from the epoxy ring seal that is bonded on the other side to the cork. If this is the case it could be caused by a slight flexibility movement of the pliable foam attached to a rigid member. Payback Salvo from the Shot you took the other day - Flock It!

Gon Fishn

Mike

I had the same problem and went to the contact cement between the cork and the foam. It works good for me and have had no seperations.

Bill, actually I noticed it on some oieces that I glued up for Charlotte demo, so I don't think that flexibility is a factor since they were glued up on a dowel as demo grips. Just tiny little separations (not many, but one is too many) Just wondering if I would be better of using contact cement between the foam and cork.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks, Mark!! I was hoping someone had tried it!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I would like to know what kind of contact cement you guys are using as I am hoping to get into it myself pretty soon. Is it a spray on aerosol or a brush on liquid? Name brand?



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

Derek, I use Weldwood brand contact cement. The first thing that I do is to cut off the goofy brush that is attached to the cap and use a cheap disposable brush. Ther was a very good illustrated article in Rodmaker detailing the process. What I do is slide the rings onto a piece of threaded rod in the order they go, leaving about an inch between rings and completely cover both sides of the rings (except the end pieces) with contact cement. I let stand on V blocks for a half hour until the cement is dry to the touch and then slide the pieces together and clamp. Sliding them together is important because the minute they touch, there bonded. You don't get second chances to line them up.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I also use weldbond and the threaded 1/4" rods. I buy it by the quart and use the cheep disposable brushes. Mine are glued up b4 I put them on the rod . I find I have less sticking to the rod that way. I also, I use a 12" x 1/4" threaded rod for this. I put the rod in my drill to do the shapeing.

Due to the size rods I build, I dril my rings out to 3/8 with a Flex Coat bit before I glue them up on a 3/8" threaded rod (Less reaming. Reaming foam is a pain). When they're dry, I add the rest of the cork rings with Rod Bont or Titebond. I transfer to a mandrel and turn/shape on lathe

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I am going to be (I Hope) combining composite cork sheeting, cork rings, eva sheets and cut up pre-formed eva grips on my rods for a little something different. So Weldwood and Titebold III seem to be the ticket.

Went to my local tackle pusher and was altogether BORED with the production rods out there. The new "Team Daiwa" surf rods have HORRIBLE guide placements and don't balance very well for a $200 rod. Should probably not say that but it is true....was also shocked to see crossed threads and poor thread packing on the rods for several HIGH END $300+ rods.

My thread packing and wrapping skills are admittedly not the best but OUCH!

Neither is my spelling BTW.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

Derek, there's a lot of cool options available. I use the thin foam sheets from the craft stores as well as the thicker pieces of foam sold to make craft "doorhangers" from. Another good item is sheets of gasket material from auto supply stores, it come in various colors/materials. Mixed in with Burl cork and/or wood, the only limit is your imagination! I use contact cement on foam and Rod Bond or Titebond on the rest

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike
Do you use the 3mm sheets? I find them the best to work up a grip with, and the 2mm sheets to make up the accents. I have thought about the composit sheet of cork but have not tried it yet. I just got some rod blank pieces so I guess I'll try the cork composit sheets next.

I am using the 2mm sheets mostly ecause they are carried at a certain megastore, although I have seen 3mm sheets elsewhere and even 6mm in white and black. Cut some pieces last night and when you are talking about 13 discs to make 1" of grip without compression that is going to be a lot of cutting and glueing.

But the colors....Oh my, the colors. Was up late last night checking out Billy V's work and some similar work from the Boss himself and find myself rather inspired. Gonna make for some funky looking rods though.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

Hey Derek
Try the 3mm. It only takes 8 disks to make 1" I'm going to look for the 6mm on monday. I use a 1 3/8" hole saw bit. You have to cut slow but it takes alot less time than cuting them by hand. Also the center hole is pre made and slides over a 1/4" threaded rod easy. Washers and wing nuts to hold while you shape.

Mark Syck

SYCKO Custom Rods
There Are No Limits To The Imagination

I posted a pic of some 6mm foam "door hangers" that work out very good for grip inserts. I also use the 2 and 3 mm sheets. They come in a ton of colors and can be easily cut into rings with a standard hole saw (Use a piece of wood under when cutting)
Keep in mind that they are really going to look bad until sanded!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2006 08:46AM by Mike Barkley.

PLOI-BOND...Industrial contact Cement. Holds up to 1600 lbs per sq in. Which can be hard to find as I have only seen it in one hardware store in the 8 oz can. I get it from Janns/Netcraft (Sponcer list on left). Requires mixing so I made a dedicaded mixing paddle from a coat hanger. I double coat each clean surface, and let sit for 15 min, recoating just one surface and waiting 10 mins. Assemble in a cork press. sands to shape uniformly

your imigination !


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