I have a potential customer who is an automotive/marine painter. He is trying to convince me not to use epoxy on the threads. He will finish it with an automotive clear coat. He says the epoxy is not necessary and it yellows after time the clear coat will not yellow and is just as durable.
Any thoughts on this proposition??

If I understand correctly, Klass Koat is actually made for automobiles and it was very highly recommended here a couple of years back. I used it on several rods and it works very nicely and does not seem to yellow at all. Since it is not an epoxy it will eat decals however, so make sure that you cover them with CP before applying the finish.

Jim Smith

I would fine out what clear coat is used on U.S. built cars and then NOT use that product. Just look at all the GM and Ford products rolling down the road with clear coat and paint peeling off. The cc on my Honda has held up very well.

The GM and Ford "peelers" you see are from the 1980's to the mid 90's. It wasn't the clear coat used, but the application by the manufacturers. There is a induction period between basecoat and clearcoat where the clear will etch itself to the basecoat. The problem was the manufacturers originally were waiting to long between the application of the basecoat and the clearcoat. So the clear was just sitting on top of the base. It was not adhered to the base. So whenever the vehicle got a small knick or chip it would start a peeling effect. That why you see them peeling more on the hoods and roofs than other parts of the vehicle and generally more toward the leading edges. Tops of fenders and the top edge of doors are also very vulnerable. I have used Dupont 7600 with a hyper cure hardener on several of my personal rods. A few bass rods I use in tournaments and 3 of my surf rods. No yellowing at all, no peeling, cracking or chipping. Works very well. Shines beautifully, and is easy to apply. Goes on in the same manner as most all finishes but holds up much better in sunlight. I have not had any problems with colors fading either and I use a lot of bright and wild colors. No problems of any kind. i do use CP on decals and inscriptions done in ink as a precation. Automotive clear is pretty hot when it starts to set. The hyper clear will set up sag free in less than 10 minutes. You can get bubbles, just remove them in the same manner you would with your standard finish. Just be extremely cautious with the open flames as auto clears will light off very easy. And always use the appropriate safety gear. Respirator and eye protection along with gloves. Hope this helps.
HAGO!
Joe

Thanks for the info, I stand corrected. What are the smallest quantities you can buy?

Most of the clears you can get in quart kits.
HAGO!
Joe

WHERE CAN ONE PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT?

A good product is from PPG. Any auto body supply should have several types in there store. Will also make an excellent blank coating.

OK so am i to understand that the epoxy is not necessary?
Newbie to rod building so I do not want to start off on the wrong foot

I am only building salt water 30lb to 80lb trolling rods so far.
first two rods the epoxy came out terrible .. 1-very uneven......2-too thin
I would try the clear coat route if it is a viable way to cover the threads and possibly blanks
The epoxy must be doing something for the guides and wraps if not why don't more people wrap and paint it sure sounds easier to do...........

Barry,

Not knocking the Clear Coat but being new to this, I would stick to the tried and true (probably 90-95% of all rods have the wraps finished with epoxy finishes) until you get to the "experimental" stages of the hobby. I would almost bet that all of your problems are due to application technique. Applied correctly, ALL finishes will level (as will any liquid). Exactly what is your application procedure?? What finish are you using?
Lumpy/wavy finish is caused by applying too much finish and/or not having the rod center line really level, causing the finish to "travel" There is a great article on finishing technique in a recent issue of Rodmaker.. You can get a perfect finish with ANY finish out there. There are numerous good finishes available. All have different characteristics but they are all capable of a beautiful glass like finish After trying pretty much all of the finish and techniques, this is what I have found to work the best for ME!

I use Threadmaster finish using syringes, stirring several minutes and pouring out on a piece of aluminum foil (lengthens pot life some and allows trapped air bubbles to escape and apply fairly quick while turning the blank by hand to cover the wraps. I don't worry about adding to much as once the wraps are covered, I let the rod sit (guides up) until the sags form on the bottom. I then remove the sags with brush or spatula and rotate the blank 180 degrees and once again wait for the sags to form. Remove and repeat. I do this for about an hour when using Threadmaster (other finishes may take a little longer). Once the sags stop, I turn on the dryer (I use a 3 rpm motor, but don't reall think that makes much difference)

If you just apply the finish heavily and turn on the motor, what happens is all of the sags that you get just go around the blank as it turns and forms the lumps/waves that many get. It's not the fault of the finish, it has nowhere else to go except arount the blank/

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks Mike

I think that the application was as fault not the product
I am using LS supreme,
the rod is level, using a spatula

1st rod - too much epoxy, creating high and low areas on the wrap
2nd rod- less epoxy not as bad

Used a brush this morning on the wraps much happier with the results. I can't coat the wraps with one coat, how many coats or layers of epoxy can be used?

The reason I asked about the clear coat is that the rods are to be re-wrapped however the customer does not want any epoxy on it as he is a painter and claims the CC will give a better finish than the epoxy.
I do not want to start with failures [not good for business] as what people will see is a rod done by me not that the owner did his own thing after i wrapped it.

From what he is telling me of the properties of the CC it seems as though it may work and be durable, flexible etc...
the only issues so far is the prep work and the actual spraying not that the product wil not work.
That will not be an issue for him as that is his job

I am all for the epoxy but as a newbie would like it explained properly so that I may also explain to others.

Tom has been helpful too but what I am not getting is the why not to do it...extra work reason is not going to cut it .... failure of the finsh and why would be more useful

Sorry but being new to this information is key to doing it right and being able to pass the info on to the end user

Barry, I rarely use one coat. For me it takes at least two coats to get the finish that "I" prefer. I don't know anything about paints (or chemistry of finish epoxies) but since the entire purpose of the finish is to protect the thread from damage/abuse, I would think that the thickness of the epoxy would offer more protection to the thread (remember, this isn't based on anything but my opinion). As far as yellowing goes, many finishes do, Threadmaster doesn't. You're kind of in the middle. If it works, great, if it doesn't, your name is still on it

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thank you again Mike

If the epoxy is solely resposible for protecting the thread then perhaps the CC will work as they have become more durable and seem to have more UV protection than the epoxy..


Again thank you to all that have responded that is what makes this forum so great