Well I have replaced all my factory casting and spinning rods with my own builds. Just sold & shipped the last of my Loomis factory built rods this morning.

Now I want to start building replacements for my factory fly rods. I'm not sure why but the is something intimidating with the thought of building a fly rod.

What subtle differences do I need to plan for or watch out for as I begin? I understand that I need to spine each section and wrap ferrule areas. Is the rest of it the same? I think it's the fact that a fly rod seems so much more delicate that I'm hesitant.

Thanks for any insight!

Keith

Other than not having a butt grip to install, everything else is exactly the same.

Keith,
You really shouldn't feel so reluctant in building a fly rod. One factor you may want to consider is uplocking or down locking reel seat as that will change the feel of the rod. is the blank tip heavy and then you may want to go with a down locking or if you can arrange the handle and reelseat in a way that you can still use a up locking reel seat. The guides can be confusing in what to choose from. Just take in affect that snake guides will stiffen up the rod as you are wrapping two feet as appose to single foot. Do you want single foot wire or single foot ceramic insert. If you want smoothness and distant the ceramic insert single foot is the way to go, but if you are getting into the heavier line wts. then you should probably choose the double foot snake guides. The stripper guides what size to choose, some rather go one size larger as it helps get the line out faster. Now onto action are you looking for a moderate fast action or are you a good fly fisherman and want a fast or extra fast action fly rod. Those are some of the things that I ask my customers when they are wanting me to build them one or when I have customers like yourself calling in to pick out a blank for themselves. I always ask them what is your price range first then go down the line with them and pick different manufactures and tell why one is better than the other, then they have the final say in the whole matter. I hope this helps you and not make you so afraid or should I say concerned about building a fly rod. As once you build either a fly rod or casting or spinning there really isn't to much different.

Thanks for the input!

I certainly wouldn't consider myself a "good" fly caster by any means... how about "fair." I would call my style ugly but fairly effective. ...lol I am going to build 3 or 4 flyrods. Most likely a (3wt or) 4wt for trout and small waters and then either a 6wt or 7wt for largemouth/smallmouth bass and low wind saltwater days and an 8wt or 9wt for saltwater and largemouth. Currently I have a 5, 7,8 and 9 weights.

I hadn't considered the up vs. down locking reel seat yet. I would like to use single foot ceramic guides mostly for less wrapping. Blanks are still up in the air. I think I like the forecast blank for the lighter rod as I seem to cast the lighter weights better with more of a mod action. (and it will be the least used of the fly rods so the forecast is easier on the wallet) Not sure yet on the others. I will want something probably a little faster tip for the heavier weights since they will be used in windy conditions and usually with large flies. Any suggestions on good blanks to look at in the $ ?? - $100 range?

Thanks again,

Keith

Dan Craft's Sig V or new fast tip blanks are great, but may be slightly over your $100 target.

For heavier weight fly rods I still like to add on a 3" fighting butt to keep the reel out of the dirt when I stand my outfit up against a tree..Try to downsize guides going over a ferrule section, don't downsize before a ferrule as this can lead to line slap and the friction gained from line slap far exceeds puting on an extra guide. Use the smallest guide ring size possible on the run out to the tip that YOUR particular terminal tackle knots will pass through, usually 7's maybe 8's on the 10 wt.+ rodsand 6's if your real lucky and use very refined connections on lower wt rods.

If you are turning your own grips you have many wonderful ways to customize your rods. One detail I pay special attention to on fly rods is the circumference of the grip. I personally findlarger diemeter grips far more comfortable over the course of a day's fishing. There seems to be some scientific support for this which shows that one's muscles are less stressed when gripping a wider object. I use larger reel seats on spin and casting rods for the same reason.
Just something you may find helpful.
Good luck with your builds.
Dave