Roy,
Your e-mail didn't pop up when I tried to click on your name on a previous message about an IST1084; but I was wondering what guide setup you settled on, how you liked it and do you have any pointers. I am building a SH1084 right now for a light saltwater stick and will set it up spinning with Fuji concept guides and a Shimano reel. Right now it looks like guides would be BYAG 25, 16, 8; then BLAG7s from right on the ferrule to the end of the rod. I would love any input you could give.

I'd run BYAG 25, 16, 12, ferrule BYAG 8, BLAG 8, BLAG 7's on out to a CFAT 7mm tip. Now if the knot arrangement (if any) you use (fly or mono) passes through a size BLAG 6 ring then run 6's on out to a BFAT 6mm tip. Using this BYAG 25 to 8 arrangment which bridges the ferrule, I think you'll find the BYAG 25 to 8 tunnel eases back to the choke guide better and the BYAG ring centers are sighted one inside the other a bit more effectively...ALSO going from a BYAG 8 to a BLAG 7 over the ferrule, depending on guide placement directly on the ferrule might invite line slap which robs casting distance. G-Humis likes doing this on their heaivier weight fly rods with 3 guides on the butt section, they will have two ceramic ringed DF guides then drop down to the largest SF wire fly guide, a 6. Then comes the ferrule which thickens the rod at that juncture and the line naturally wants to hit/slap the ferrule. I have one of their rods but reguided with a third ceramic ringed DF guide to lift the line over the blank swelling ferrule.

Tom's addition farther down this thread is correct, you'd have to slap another high frame BLAG 10 and/or 8 starting on the tip section to produce a straight line before changing to the alconite BLAG style. I can usually get away with something more in tune with what I originally suggested as I give a little more room between the spool face and the 1st guide and I don't put a guide directly on the ferrule so this adjust the slope somewhat as the 1st tip section guide is farther down... The upsweep on the Shimano Reels is rather abrupt for my liking. I forgot to convert back to strict concept guiding mode



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/17/2006 10:55AM by Chris Karp.

Chris,

I don't think you could possibly obtain a straight line path with that particular set up. The #8's will just be way of line there.

I'd have to set it up in person to know for sure, but it doesn't sound like that will provide the best line flow.

...........

Roy Davis <[email protected]>
Marty - maybe your PC mouse is not set-up correctly. I only had to move the Cursor over Roy's name, and the E-dress popped-up. Right-click to COPY.

Did you find Roy's Post & Replies for his RS-RX7 "IST-108-4-F"

Guide setup help ... Roy Davis ... October 10, 2005 12:16PM
[www.rodbuilding.org]
"I’m building my first rod using the New Concept Guide system and would appreciate some feedback. Rainshadow IST1084F Blank, Shimano Stradic 4000FH reel. It seems the angle of the reel spool stem is very sharp and my choke guide would end up very low on the rod (on the butt half of the blank) so I used the method of bending the blank 90 degrees to locate the choke guide. ... Here is where I ended up for guide spacing: ..." -Roy Davis.

He lists all his Guides & Locations.
Discussion ensues. ... Good Luck, Marty.
-Cliff Hall+++, FL-USA

Marty,

I haven't built that blank but your setup sounds good to me. You might try BYAG 25, 12 8 and the rest BLAG7's. and see what you think. I like to get down to the smallest size as quick as I can. There isn't any benefit (IMO) in gradually decreasing guide sizes

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!