I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Thread Master
Posted by: Brad Young (---.dhcp.kgpt.tn.charter.com)
Date: June 11, 2006 04:29PM

Andy, Do you have plans to make thread master in a high build formula?
Just wondering. If not I can continue doing several applications to get it to look like a high build product.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: June 11, 2006 08:19PM

The ThreadMaster I have is a high build formulation - about the same as regular Flex Coat.

...........

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: June 11, 2006 08:20PM

Brad, in my use of Threadmaster it's all about timeing: thick or thin.

If you're wanting a thicker product to use, try letting the product set mixed for a while before applying. Threadmaster thickens with time, the more time, the thicker the product. Application instantly after mixing will give you the thinnest product.

A little heat from a lighter will thin it again to help leveling if that is needed also.

DR

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Andy Dear (---.sub-66-174-79.myvzw.com)
Date: June 11, 2006 10:38PM

Hi Brad...good to hear from you,
Tom is correct. The current version of Threadmaster is about the same as FC High Build. We (the chemist and I) have loosley discussed the possibility of thicker version, but I think it would only serve a relatively small market. That doesn't mean it won't ever see the light of day, but at the moment I have several other products I want to pursue before a high build formula.

Best Regards,

Andy Dear
Lamar Fishing products

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Stan Gregory (---.dyn.sprint-hsd.net)
Date: June 11, 2006 11:46PM

Andy,

Can you tell us about the status of ThreadMaster Color Preserver and its release date? If it's anywhere near the performance of the epoxy, it will probably be outstanding. Good job on the epoxy - it's what I now use.

Stan

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Andy Dear (---.sub-66-174-79.myvzw.com)
Date: June 12, 2006 12:36AM

Thanks Stan,
Here is the deal on the CP, we currently have two different resins that are "as good" as what's currently on the market. The problem is that what's on the market now is not all that great and needs some improvement in certain areas. I could release what we have now, but the last thing the market needs is another "me too" product. I'd rather not have a CP at all, than have one with the the problems the current products have. gettinga "perfect" CP is proving to be very tricky, adn I don't think anyone (chemists included) understand why certain resins do what they do to nylon thread.

Besst Regards,

Andy Dear
Lamar Fishing PRoducts

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.nas64.newark2.nj.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: June 12, 2006 07:08AM

Just a thought Andy But I find that the 811 CP is pretty darn good stuff ??

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Andy Dear (---.sub-66-174-92.myvzw.com)
Date: June 12, 2006 09:22AM

Bill,
It is if you can get it in the right viscosity. 75% of the time it is too thick and requires thinning in the proper ratio...which of course is dependent on how thick it might be at that time. Thin it too much and you dilute the solids content too low for proper sealing. Thin it too little and it doesn't penetrate the thread and wet out properly. Put too much on and it gels up and turns gummy. In terms of color retention, yes it is good, but the QC leaves a lot to be desired.

Andy Dear
Lamar Fishing Products

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: John Campbell (---.jetstream.xtra.co.nz)
Date: June 13, 2006 02:48AM

Since I have nothing to compare it to is someone able to explain what is the right viscosity...just how runny should it be. thanks John

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.250.162.243.Dial1.Weehawken1.Level3.net)
Date: June 13, 2006 08:24AM

Andy
That is why I put at least two wet coats on. One wet coat then when it looks like the thread has soaked it in, I wet it again. Just like finish let it hang on the bottom of the threads then wick it off.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Thread Master
Posted by: Andy Dear (---.sub-70-196-85.myvzw.com)
Date: June 13, 2006 09:15PM

John,
The viscosity should be thin enough to fully penetrate the threads all the way through to the blank, and no more. If the resin is diluted too much the solids content will be so low it won't fully fill the thread and keep the finish from penetrating. CP is a very tricky thing because you have o balance viscosity and solods content.

Andy Dear
Lama Fishing Products

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster